M&S

This has to be one of the saddest posts ever to grace the pages of the forum but where else do you ask such a question... I've been after some boots for driving/laning etc. I have wellington boots, hiking boots, safety boots, but none of them are great for driving in. I was watching the Malaysian Camel Trophy (1992) last night and the guys were wearing a sand coloured boot. It looked really soft, perhaps a canvas type material? Any ideas where I can get some from? They don't have to be a stinky, well worn original pair just a similar designed boot. Feel free to delete this thread if it is deemed to be too "Heat Magazine"

It's on my list of things to do, sometime in the future My gearbox oil leak has got worse so that's the next mechanical job to do. They never get any better do they

I spoke with TD5 Alive at Donnington on Sunday and walked away with an EGR removal kit at a show price . This was the same price as the Bearmach kit but with a few differences. The TD5 Alive kit has a flared pipe rather than a straight through one so the hose should stay on! The pipe is also much thinner walled and aluminium unlike the thick walled steel one from BM. Less of a restriction and more suited for the inlet I think. TD5 Alive also supplied a new gasket and allen bolts, but most importantly, comprehensive instructions on how to fit the kit! These proved spot-on and far more comprehensive than any others I've read or seen. Anyway, the job was easy. Took 30mins. 1) Remove engine cover and fan shroud (for easier access). 2) Spray the 2 allen bolts on the exhaust pipe with WD40. 3) Remove the inlet hose and vac pipes from the EGR. 4) Remove the EGR valve (4 bolts, 5mm socket). 5) Remove the exhaust pipe (2 allen screws, 5mm). These screws are awkward to reach but a long allen key with a spanner on the end did the trick. An allen socket and extension bar would have been better but I didn't have one handy. 6) Fit blanking plate to exhaust manifold (the one supplied is nice and thick). 7) Fit new pipe to where the EGR valve use to live (new gasket also supplied). Follow the vac pipes back to two solenoids. Unplug the solenoids. 9) I coiled the wiring and vac pipes up and left them in the engine bay with zip ties. I also put a couple of self trappers in the end of teh vac pipes. Not to stop the vacum (there won't be any with the solenoids diosconnected) but to stop water/dirt ingress. I also used duck tape over the solenoid connectors just to keep them clean and dry. Yes, I'm a bit sad 10) Refit the fan guard etc. As I say, a 30min job One thing I should say is that I expected my engine to have the heat exchanger fitted (the Haynes book of lies would have me believe this to be the case) but it doesn't. It's a 2004 model so should have, but then it also should have a CDL in the transfer box, and it doesn't So the bit that you are all wanting to know...how's the performance? Well TD5 Alive did say that it wouldn't make any real difference to performance, but should improve the fuel economy slightly. I'll let you know after my next tank full. But a test drive has shown a difference in the way it drives. When cold it pulls better at low revs. The hill out of our street can now be driven in 4th instead of 3rd. When warmed up it seems to rev a little more freely throughout the range, maybe, hard to tell, could be that it's had a good run only 2 days ago . I'm not convinced that there's any real difference here. But at lower revs it is noticably quicker through the revs (from tickover to about 1500rpm). Pulling out of junctions is that bit quicker As I say these are negligable differences really, and definiately not a performance increase. But pulling out of junctions is certainly improved and was the only part of the TD5 that I'd wanted to change. Steph drove the truck today (oh yeah, she passed her driving test a couple of weeks ago ) and asked "if I'd done something to it" as it "seems better when pulling off". It doesn't get sop bogged down at low revs either, so the jobs a good'un.

I'd have a word with TD5 Alive also, I spoke with then on Sundsay and fitted their EGR kit on Monday. Very helpful and seem to know what they are on about. I haven't had a remap yet, don't know if I will, but I'll be using them if I do. I'm waiting to see how it drives fully loaded with expedition kit, if it's ok I won't bother with a remap. I personally think the TD5 engine is plenty good enough as it is.

If you paid for genuine parts you want genuine parts. Simple. I'd return hem and also suggest that they change their advert. I hate it when companies do this, it's a waste of evryones time.

You certainly can remove the 6th & 7th seats. They also make a commercial D3, so I'd guess that the parts are available to do a "genuine" conversion. It depends how much they are prepared to spend though I guess...

Let me get this right...you hate walkers who have the right to use the footpath over your land As a keen walker and mountain biker and green laner I get it from every side whenever I am out. I was even shot at by a farmer once despite sticking to the footpath

Thanks for the reply, clear as mud now

I was going to ask, so here seems a good a place as any Am I right in thinking that the D3 follows the same set-up as teh Freelander and the new Range Rovers in that it's a monocoque design?

try www.partsgateway.co.uk I have one piece of plastic for the lower part of the front bumper. Think it's the splash guard that you might be talking about? Could bring it to Donnington if you are going.

Just to say thanks for the advice to all. Fitted a new Britpart rotary filter and the Unipart 5W/30 fully synthetic oil yesterday The old oil looked spot-on. Like new in fact (just a bit blacker as it should be). No gunge, no lumps, no discolouration, no water, the viscosity was good...just shows how knackered the engine must have been in my LDV I greased the three grease nipples that I could find on the prop shafts also. The double carden shaft doesn't apear to have any nipples on the UJ's or the shaft splines? Any others that I've missed?

My mate makes the kits up. If you are interested let me know what vehicle it's for and I'll see how much he wants. He does the timing cover bits as well. Will be cheaper than buying a roll of 6mm tube that's for sure!

In my opinion full beam is great but dipped beam is pants. Not sure if better bulbs would help?

Cheers all. I agree, I went into the corners a bit quick for this to have happened (I say quick, I doubt it was more then 10mph ). I used to own a Freelander which was happy for the rear to slide out a bit before settling into a 4 wheel drift. Now I know why... cheers I have no intention of driving like this normally though so will settle with taking corners at 2mph n the snow

Bought some Millers diesel additive today, was £11.99, trade price £9.59. Not a huge saving but a saving all the same.

Just updating this thread now I have a table fitted. I decided to fit it higher up on the rear door for several reasons: 1) I can sit on the bumper and my legs will be under it. 2) Any space left above would be wasted due to heat from the stove. 3) This gives room beneath for the original door pocket to be refitted if I decide. There will eventually be a small cargo net fitted to the underside of the table also, for the stove and a fuel bottle to live in. It does the job

Hi all, Just a question regarding the handling of the D2 in the snow this week. There's nothing wrong with the vehicle I'm sure of that, it's just an observation. Twice now I have drifted of to the kerb as you would in a front wheel drive vehicle when loosing grip (understeer). I'm wondering why this may be as I thought that there was a bias to the rear wheels? I expected to be able to blip the throttle and push the back end out but nope, the front kept on drifting away... I guess I need to change my driving style a bit, or get some AT's fitted I know I was going a bit to quickly for this to have happened in the first place, but as I say, I expected to be able to correct it. On a plus side, given a large carpark of untouched snow it handles really well. Give it some gas, let it squirm a bit, then off it goes, all four wheels sliding but really controlled and actually does seem to have a rear bias

That's a good link, some REALLY cheap prices too, wish I'd had my trade card a year ago! I got my card by taking in my certificate of incorporation (I run a ltd company). I told them I do service work off shore and purchase a lot of tools and they were happy to give me one. Saying that, I just bought 20 litres of 5W/30 fully synthetic oil for £52 from Unipart, Halfords would have been near double that even with the trade card so it's still worth shopping around.

The Disco 2 is a bit different, I just removed the coin tray and pulled the clock out. The light hasn't worked since though. Guess I just need a new bulb for it

Again, not sure about your needs for challenge days, but the Garmin GPS60csx is a great unit. Colour screen, large enough, fits in your hand also. Is waterproof, drop proof etc. It's a tough unit that seems to find a signal everywhere. Runs on 2 AA's for ages so no need to wire it in.

Makes my set-up look like a bargain. Bought this yesterday for £195 Down from £350

Well just checked mine again and it definiately doesn't have Difflock in the transfer box. So everywhere that says 04 models do is wrong (including good old Haynes). I'm not too bothered though, as I say, I think it performs very well as it is. It will be even better when I switch from road tyres

I've yet to find a tyre shop that would repair a tyre with ANY damage to a sidewall. Looks like it's time for a new tyre.

I had a similar dilema. Does your transfer lever (the actual black head f the lever) actually have Diff-lock written on it, or does it just have High - N - Low? If it has Difflock written on it then you should be able to move the lever over to the left, if not, then you won't be able to move the lever across. The article on discovery2 is a good read. Everything I've read says that 04 plate discos do have the difflock in the transfer box and you just need the linkage fitting, but mine doesn't have the spigot on the top of the transfer case so that would suggest I don't have the internals either. Unless I'm looking in the wrong place Have you driven the vehicle off-road much yet? If not I'd suggest seeing how you go without the difflock, you might be very surprised at how well it does

If you don't get any luck, then TD5 Alive are in Grimsby, just down the road. I'm sure they'd be able to help you out?