moore101

They supply most brake fittings but seems to be made of really quick rust steel and are rather highly priced. Will give them a try first though. Cheers

In tank pump will be furthest out of the way but requires an SD1 sender/pump bracket or another hole cutting in the top of tank. So without doing that I'd be looking for somewhere a little bit more protected like mounting it on the inside of the chassis rail or you could just put a cover over the existing pump as a gaurd. Keeping the existing pump will want it kept low to help it gravity feed as I've got a feeling most pumps don't really like having to lift fuel up to height but will all easily push it along lines.

Well I don't feel quite as silly as if I'd ordered the wrong part, but I should have checked the picture to check the right part is the right part... CONFUSED! That one on rimmerbros definitely looks right though. Now to have a look around and see if i can buy them in bulk anywhere a bit cheaper but with the same quality, silly calipers needing 3 bleed screws, makes it expensive

I've just been outside cleaning up my calipers ready for paint and while I was at it I tried one of my new nipples out for size. The thread seems to be the correct M10x1 (tried it in a female fitting and it screwed up lovely with no wobble) but does seem a bit loose in the caliper. The nipples themselves are noticeably longer and the taper is longer too. I've given one a quick tighten to check it will seal and it seems to be creating a nice even circle mark on the nipple so I guess its right. See attached picture. The nipples came from a well known auction site advertised as RTC1526. Looking on LRSeries they seem to be the same long nipple and list it as suitable for rangerover up to 1994 which is what my calipers are off (twin pipe 1991 range rover). Have found RTC1115 as a bleed screw which looks more like it'd be the right length but isn't threaded along its full length. Can someone confirm part number for the nipples I need? And move this to part number request section if it'd be more suited there please (have put it in here incase it's a caliper issue)

Very nicely done. 4 pin LR diffs have been in use by many CCV trialers for a few years now. But they do it the pikey way of running a long nose diff with original pinion and the entire P38 diff unit and crownwheel all in a ground out long nose case. For the small amount and low speed work that CCV trialers do this method works fine. Having not seen a P38 diff in the flesh in its original case, how different is the case where it bolt in? Would it be possible to machine an original case or weld on a P38 ring? That way you could just bolt a standard P38 diff in and have the advantage of the shorter diff.

What shafts do you mean there? Buy a heavy duty item longer than needed (rangerover for example) then take it to your local machine shop and they'll be able to shorten it for you. Editing your profile to show a rough location will help us point you to the right place. If you're near me i've currently got the correct tap for doing the RH thread so could sort an arm the correct length out for a small fee. Dimensions for mounting the box as far as i know wont be available as, like someone's already said, every installation seems to be different. As for the pump bracket, someone should be able to provide further info on this but a diesel pump bracket could be the best starting point to modify as the basic engine block is the same as the 2.25petrol?

When I fitted 6cyl/stage 1 front brakes to my lightweight (keeping the back brakes original) I fitted a 109 master cylinder (to the original pedal box and servo) as I thought that'd be what the 6cyl/stage 1 would have had and never had any problems with brakes on MOT test so that method works. Ah just re-read your post, non servo. Best bet I reckon is to get hold of a later series pedal box with servo and upgrade to servo at the same time. All you'll need is a vacuum pipe from inlet manifold.

Haven't checked on here for a few days but thank you for all the responses. It seems the only replaceable parts then are the filter baskets and the main o-rings. Now all i need to do is establish which type of injector they are so i can get the correct rebuild kit: fuel injector service kit 15 Lucas Sagem Landrover V8 Bosch Denso later V8 seal kit 40 Measuring the o-rings should confirm it either way.

Unfortunately not. A series 3 hardtop on a lightweight overhangs each side by about 1/2". This is cured by splitting the rear corners and taking a slither off the back panel, pushing it back together and pop rivetting it shut. But i imagine it will be harder on a truck cab as it's all curved and more complex i think (havent looked at it in detail yet)

Brilliant thread! When you first put the truck cab on it looks like it fitted perfectly width wise. Where did you lose the extra inch of width from it to get it to fit perfectly?

More than happy to meet up, i'll send you a pm on here. Keep the radiator in the front, it'll save rear load space and isn't necessary, with a decent 2nd hand radiator it'll stay cool, its only a 3.5 anyway? Oil cooler isn't absolutely necessary, not all rangerovers had them as standard and a series is considerably lighter so working the engine less. I think i've got a rangerover header tank in the shed which isn't going to get used for a while so that would get the cooling system as per defender so should sort any cooling issues.

Had a look through that page before posting on here, very useful information but for a slightly different injector type (one with replaceable pint cap and spacer) so wanted some confirmation that the filter basket is the only replaceable part. From mrinjector uk i think this is the parts kit i require? Or from the USA i could get filter baskets in bulk here but i don't think theres much in it pricewise. If i could find o-rings cheap then it'd work out cheaper to just buy the filters as there'd be enough to do 3 sets, will have to have a look around for o-rings later.

I did read somewhere about not using flammable substances in ultrasonic cleaners.. I thought the theory of the cleaners was the ultrasonic waves actually do the cleaning and the water or whatever solution is used just carries the dirt away. But then it does make sense to me to want to use a degreaser in there as it'd help release the dirt.

Ah someone else has done what im planning on doing, that makes me feel even more confident about cleaning them now I'm pretty sure i've got an old fuel pressure rail spare in the shed with corroded seats so i could clean up a seat, cut it off with a bit of length of pipe, get it tigged to a union which'll allow me to connect it all up. I've got a spare carb fuel pump which would put ~4psi? through it which would probably be enough to get it sort of operating to clean it. Only problem is that the in tank pumps dont like not being able to push fluid so maybe i'll need to rig up a return with a reduced diameter to provide resistance. I guess a fuel pump will be ok with warm washing up liquid or water through it? Another way i've seen of doing it is to pressurise the fluid with a syringe which if i can get my hands on one sounds like a safer option. I only use the vehicle for trialling and the occasional trip so fuel consumption isnt a massive problem. As long as the vehicle runs no worse than before i'll be happy. But can anyone confirm that the only replaceable parts for this type of injector is the o-rings and filter baskets?

Has anybody ever cleaned or rebuilt these injectors? They are bosch injectors, I believe, with the part number D1830GA stamped into the plastic body. I have given the outside a quick clean with a wire brush to remove the loose paint and have removed the filter baskets and the 2 external o-rings but i'm not sure if thats everything thats replaceable on them? Other injectors have replaceable pintle caps I'm planning on popping them in an ultrasonic tank once i know i've removed all serviceable parts and potentially operating them whilst in there to help free off any dirt in them. Any help muchly appreciated, Alex And before anyone asks, no i cant afford to get them cleaned by a company at ~£120 when the service parts cost less than half that. I know i wont get the full flow testing doing it myself but when they are clean I will rig up a small test bed to be able to put fuel through them at pressure and by taking a picture of the jet from each I should be able to see if any havent cleaned fully. (putting new filter baskets in can only be a good thing going by the colour of the ones i've removed, a nice rusty brown!)

Very nice! Agreed about the overflow bottle though, definitely needs a pressurised one on there if you're going to run it as it is. Can't see where the vent pipe from the inlet manifold t's into the system either? But apart from that it looks ace, the bulkhead is very neat. Bring it along to a Somerset and Wilts trial to put it to use?

Series hardtops are a lot stronger than most people think providing all the fixings are in place thats me rolling my lightweight and there was minimal vehicle damage and no injury to me or passenger so thats got to be a credit to the hardtops strength. As for seatbelt mounting with a softtop. When i bought the lightweight it had a fixed belt (non inertia) mounted to the inside vertical face of the body capping just in front of the rear seats and that gave a nice angle over shoulder.

I was really surprised that it has done tbh. I thought it'd drop off straight away. I've got some videos from using it at last years RTV trial at the mendip challenge. They're currently on facebook so will try and find them on the computer tomorrow and put them on youtube to link to here.

I use a cheap halfords jobbie see here I've been pleasantly surprised with how steady it is, i've bent the stalk back on itself in an almost S shape to put the phone nearer the windscreen which reduces the leverage trying to pull it off. The mount comes with a sticky back plastic base to stick to top of dash if its not a smooth finish which the holder can then suck onto. As for holding the phone in, ive not had mine fall out, i really squeeze the sides of the mount in which i think contributed to the cracks on the back of my phone extending but better than the thing falling off and getting trodden on When i release the phone i again sqeeze the sides of the mount to save it straining/wearing the locking mechanism

I'm with NFU and they've said i'm not covered for offroad use which is fine as i trial with a club whose alrc membership will give the 3rd party insurance mentioned above. But they didn't not insure me just because i use it offroad. NFU seem to be pretty good at understanding landrovers and because of that i guess they work on the basis that damage sustained offroad would be different to that of the damage from an accident? Unless of course the tree that i put my wing (or whatever other body panel) into has already had someone else do the same in which case i could end up with their paint on it

Interesting read, some very mixed views. I always thought that a thermostat will have a fully open temperature (think a 74 thermostat is fully open at 82?). Once the engine reaches normal operating temperature (88?) then the thermostat can't have anything to do with temperature or coolant flow can it because the thermostat is fully open? Unless the temperature drops below 82 at which point the thermostat will start to close. I then thought engine cooling is controlled by air flow through radiator from vehicle speed (ram effect), fans to change the flowrate of air through the radiator, or variation in waterpump speed and therefore water flowrate?

and as for this zf powersteering box, pictures please!!!

Right, so when a vehicle is built it has all its points and has to retain the minimum points throughout its life to retain its VIN. So why would rebuilding a vehicle suddenly make it exempt to this rule? The key words here are 'original design', which covers the springs, dampers and bushes, because although you can fit parabolics and polybushes they are deemed to be near enough the same design I seem to remember recently talks about chassis though so i dont think losing points for the steering is a worry..

I've got a small aluminium plate off of one of the waterpump bolts to stop water getting to the bottom of the distributor and have then cut up an old inner tube and cable tied it over the top of the cap. I'll try and remember to get a picture later but i'll pre apologise for it being plastered in mud still from when i last went out playing. I try not to go mad in water as the air filters at the back of the engine bay in a direct line of fire from water coming up between chassis and engine it would seem, but so far i havent managed to kill it in the wet stuff. Old bits of car bumpers can make quite good guards over the top

Disco draglink probably wont be the right length due to disco axles being wider. When i put the rangie axles on mine with the normal series steering I shortened a rangie draglink. I then bent the trackrod so replaced it with a HD bar and got a HD draglink shortened and drilled so i could retap it at the correct length. When i convert to powersteering during rebuild over the next few months i guess my draglink will be too short. If you take a measurement of distance between steering arm holes theres a chance it could be somewhere near the length of my modified one which i'd be willing to part with it for funds towards my new one i'll have to buy and get shortened.