moore101

PRC8318 looks like the jobbie do all efi engines run the same pressure fuel pump?

after the cylinder type in tank pump for a 3.9 efi like this one:

it depends on the vehicles usage. if you want to trial the vehicle 235s do worsen the already quite poor series turning circle, ask me how i know and thats on lwb rims! now ive put the rangerover axles on, the tyres dont get anywhere near rubbing and the turning circle is almost the same as a defender on the same tyres . ive found the 235s to be plenty sufficiant for grip and havent found them to sink in to soft ground too much. ive packed out bumpstops to stop them rubbing so much but its only the top of the arch boxes they rub on so wont be cutting into tread. if the vehicles not getting trialled and the turning circle doesnt matter so much then the 265s will definetely make it look a bit more beasty and they may wear a bit slower and grip a bit better on road due to more tread.

*rant mode: Posted in rangerover section but after posting previous questions in this section and getting more response (and seeing othr vehicle specific bits in here) have posted it in here to see if it gets attention. *rant mode off onto my problem: While laying out a trial saturday my 3.5 v8 decided to start playing up. On a hill climb running foot to the floor it decided to start misfiring, so i backed off a bit and it seemed ok. But when i reversed down and parked up at the bottom i noticed it blue smoking quite badly. Carried on for the rest of the day with it running a bit lumpy and had a quick look before i left the site. When revved the blue smoke had turned to black and it would hardly pick up so its running rich (very!) Limped home to have a decent look and once id pulled the lh air filter off i could see the piston was 'juddering'. When held steady by finger tip the engine ran a lot smoother. So imediate suspicion was dashpot oil level and it was low so topped up with some oil designed for su and strombergs that i found on a shelf in the garage. That got it running better but i swapped it for some 15w40 engine oil which made it run even better again (almost perfect in fact) However, today marshalling at the trial it was blue smoking all day apart from at the end of the day when it went to black smoke again. When i got home the dashpots didnt have much oil in. So is it possible that the blue smoke is just the oil from the dashpots burning and if so is it enough to make the vehicle blue smoke all day or is something else in my engine knackered? I have another set of su's which i could put on but they have different needles so probably wont run very nicely at all. Help please

i think r380 input shaft diameter is 19mm

Went for a fantastic drive out on salisbury plain with the series 1 club a while back and stopped by at imber and westbury white horse. Had a great day even though we only did 1 or 2 byways. Sometimes its not about going out and getting muddy or breaking things, its about meeting new people and friends. Theres a decent size carpark at imber good for a group photoshoot and alright maybe its only the church thats really left but its still history.

While laying out a trial saturday my 3.5 v8 decided to start playing up. On a hill climb running foot to the floor it decided to start misfiring, so i backed off a bit and it seemed ok. But when i reversed down and parked up at the bottom i noticed it blue smoking quite badly. Carried on for the rest of the day with it running a bit lumpy and had a quick look before i left the site. When revved the blue smoke had turned to black and it would hardly pick up so its running rich (very!) Limped home to have a decent look and once id pulled the lh air filter off i could see the piston was 'juddering'. When held steady by finger tip the engine ran a lot smoother. So imediate suspicion was dashpot oil level and it was low so topped up with some oil designed for su and strombergs that i found on a shelf in the garage. That got it running better but i swapped it for some 15w40 engine oil which made it run even better again (almost perfect in fact) However, today marshalling at the trial it was blue smoking all day apart from at the end of the day when it went to black smoke again. When i got home the dashpots didnt have much oil in. So is it possible that the blue smoke is just the oil from the dashpots burning and if so is it enough to make the vehicle blue smoke all day or is something else in my engine knackered? I have another set of su's which i could put on but they have different needles so probably wont run very nicely at all. Help please

illegal and not promoted on here. definetely not the sort of thing that anybody should be asking in public! its not even like you're trying to register a series with defender running gear. just plain ringing!

shall hopefully be fitting lt77 and lt230 into my lightweight this month or beginning of next. what can i do regarding speedo? can i use my existing one or will i have to fit one from a different model? will a defender one fit in my exising hole in the dash? are all lt77 speedos electrical like on the diesel rangie i have? i could fit the entire rangie dash if needs be but id rather keep the series dash. and just to clarify, i have lt77 and lt230 from a defender, rangie axles with their diffs and 235/85 tyres, will there be a speedo to match? cheers, alex

i too am not a fan of cutting the end of the crank off, especially as the engine i have is meant to be our spare to go in the 101 when its engine finally dies. thought it was 3/4", got it written down on a piece of paper somewhere. i will take the bush out of the crank and machine the shaft to fit nicely. then will do what i did last time before fitting which was to take the adaptor plate off the back of the engine, and check the input shaft goes into the end of the crank without binding when the gap between bellhousing and engine is the same as the thickness of the adaptor plate. that way i know that the two will physically fit together and wont mind spending the half hour of wriggling that it took last time to get them mated.

planning on using the circular grinder at college (got a few ex machine shop teachers in for a few weeks ). only problem i may have is if the gearbox end of the shaft doesnt have a centre in it in which case i'll have to make up a centre to go in/on that end as there arent any chucks or faceplates for the grinder. does anyone know what sort of tolerance fit it will need to be? will 0.01mm be ok? (dont know how much wear the grinders got in it )

tape measure will be coming out soon! climbed under the vehicle to do front suspension bushes today and noticed my engine crossmember has just started to try and seperate itself from the chassis. starting to crack along the bottom join so maybe taking that one out and making a removable one to go there wont be such a bad idea. while doing that i might as well sleeve the chassis for defender gearbox mounts and then make up a new bolt in crossmember to go under the gearbox and get it to tuck up tight, can then make a skid palte to go between it and the engine one and extend it back under handbrake to stop that dragging so much. just one other thing, what can i do about speedo? does a defender have an electric one like rangerover? if so i might be able to make it fit in the series panel? or make a new panel to suit it.

thats what i was thinking worst thing that happens is it wears, input shaft wobbles like mine was doing and i end up back at square one. if the clutch isnt depressed very often then it shouldnt wear at all.

as appears in the gearbox thread for v8s in series board its highly possible that my lightweight will be getting an lt77/230 box from a defender in the next month. i think ive got everything sorted apart from getting a diesel input shaft to fit into a v8 diesel input shaft diameter 23mm? v8 input shaft diameter 19mm? currently i have a ground down series input shaft to 19mm which gives a nice meaty bush in the end of the crank. i dont think a series input shaft isnt 23mm to start with though so the amount of the material removed just about leaves some of the outer case hardened metal there. how much can i get ground off of an lt77 input shaft before its not hardened? and how quickly would it wear in an oilite spigot bush if too much material was removed?

no one want to shed any light? or is everyone clueless like me ive found a defender box now and have talked to a landrover place near me and have found out: -i can use the clutch from my rangerover 200tdi and gearbox -defender gearlevers should end up in right place -lt77 mounts go straight to chassis on a defender which leaves me with the question Do i weld up mounts to attach it to my removable crossmember of which i have a spare anyway or do i sleeve the chassis and do it that way, would still have to have the crossmember to keep the chassis stiff -lt77 input shaft is 23mm diameter? and v8 is 19mm? the last point is where i have a problem, how much can i get the input shaft ground down by before im below the case hardened surface? if 2mm from the radius is going to be too much then i'll have to cut off the end of the crank and fit a spigot bush adaptor, although maybe i could fit an adaptor and cut the end off the input shaft, then the spigot bush probably wouldnt end up long enough opinions please (and not, sell it and get a defender, or put it on a coil chassis. i like leaves, they give the vehicle its series character!)

right, been having a few series 2a gearbox troubles recently and im now at a point where i have an input shaft which fits the crank really nicely (ground down, have nice meaty bush) but the synchro teeth are so worn on it i have no 4th gear. and it isnt holding oil, leaking past clutch release sleeve which has worn the bush in the clutch release housing (series 2a) due to the spigot bush wearing out. So now i want to put in a defender lt77 and lt230 as i think it will be worth the little bit of effort for the gains. i already have range rover axles so dont need to worry about permanent 4wd. so what do i need to know/do? -get defender lt77 (short bellhousing) -get lt230 transfer box -will be needing to shorten / lengthen props to suit which isnt a huge problem as i can get that done nicely and easily bits im unsure about: -will the route of the propshaft / the front output on the transfer box clear a standard series engine crossmember? -will my gearlevers end up in standard series position? -what clutch bits will i need? i assume i'll be needing standard defender but what will suit my flywheel? i have a v8 flywheel drilled for standard 2a clutch cover (is this the same as defender?) or can i now finally get a decent size clutch in there and use the original v8 clutch holes? ive got the engine and gearbox from my scrap diesel rangie, will i be able to use the clutch bits from here? what master cylinder will i need? will my existing series cylinder work with the lt77 slave? someone come to my help please!

does that not just add a massive flat surface to get dented and then caught up on rocks once the axles slid over them? definetely gives somewhere to sit brake lines on to protect them

satin black does look good on those vehicles. but i agree it does also make them look like they'll be driven by yobs who dont worry if it'll get beaten up to the point of not being driveable. why tart up your vehicle by treating it to new paint whenever you get a scratch? if your that fussy about the paint dont drive into things!

i'd measure mine but its got 1 ton shackles and homemade leaf seats for the rangie axles, can measure a series 1 if thats any help? (on 205s with ever so slightly sagging leaves, probably only an inch though)

why not run a generator from a little 2 stroke engine then run an electric system, i was looking at doing this on about 1/8 1/7 scale model 101 but lack of time brought the project to a halt unfortunately something about the thought of an engine on it makes it so much cooler than just electric!

http://www.bellautoservices.co.uk/pdf/TDV6-Defender-Build-25-07-09.pdf page 96 to 100 show a pretty neat way of protecting brake lines, not sure if its a custom axle or bought but does look pretty strong. link taken from this thread http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=44791&st=0

have thought about putting the series diffs back in to the rangerover axles i put on which would lower my gearing and give me the control back. but with the series gearbox i dont have much options for ratio changes so then end up with poor cruising gearing again. a well set up manual and decent strength drivetrain is good (and the boxes are so simple that they cant really go wrong unless they're not strong enough) combined with a decent driver, but without using clutch you're never going to be able to get the slow crawl that you can get with an auto which i can see being a big bonus to me doing rtv trials. i think the decision comes down to what sort of offroading you're doing

ive got a QT style one and not put a bend in it yet (a few deep scratches but nothing to distort it) although i dont tend to go crashing into rocks that often, tend to find it bends handbrake back plate once the diff's bounced over the rock or whatever ive crashed into.

those weld on guards do look quite good but what happens if you blow parts of diff through the original case underneath? you'll then have to cut off the welded on guard and weld on a new pan or replace the case. seems like a lot of work for not a lot of gain over a decent unboltable diff guard. also, are you not creating a mud trap if you dont plate in the top of the guard to diff pan gap? just my few thoughts

ive been trialling a manual for over a year and when it comes round to building a new truck it'll get an auto (if i can fit it in) manual is alright offroad and with a sensitive foot it will get good results but the shock loadings that can be put on the transmission kill diffs, halfshafts, and props so easily