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steve b

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Everything posted by steve b

  1. Hi Zuz, Looks like it could be a nice rally/ gathering, I reckon the 400km of greenlaning would be fun too . Are you thinking of doing it after the Ladoga next year..would be a nice wind down after a week of trophy racing. Looks like about 1000km each way to get there and back so not too far away. cheers Steveb
  2. Hi Josh , Yep hoping to have it running for Sunday for a little test session. see you there Steveb
  3. Yep somewhere on a shelf..it was only done one year IIRC , good idea at the time. All power to him , very green to rework rather than crush 'em and make new from new materials ..of course it should have been Steveb Industries really cheers Steveb
  4. You know me Pete, hydro is part of my destiny , might end up with electric/hydro back up for the 90(100) if it ever gets finished though . Just got my hoses to pipe up the rear winch so looking forward to getting it running. Here are a couple of pic's of the mk1 temporary get it on the back mount, and one of the change over valve...this is electrically operated might need to add 2 batteries and another alternator and some allbrights to run it Right , off to fit some pipes - and get covered in 46wt hydraulic oil I expect B) See you Sunday cheers Steveb
  5. my thoughts exactly Lewis, When I upgrade the motors on the MM and go to 3/4" hose and a big pump the idea of a dual winch control joystick sounds appealing. Looking forward to getting the basic set up running first though. The joy stick might need some sort of override to lock out the rear winch so it's not unintentionally engaged, maybe even a three way front only/rear only/ both type setup. Back to longer drums ...I'm going to take a shaft to my friendly machine shop to see how much for a couple of longer ones next week so will keep you all posted cheers Steveb
  6. Not at all Lewis , this side chat about joystick control , leccy and hydro-servo is very interesting and relevant to how we control all that power Just finished mk 1 rear mount - I'm sure HFH knows what I mean by mk 1 - will take some pic's in daylight. This one is basically to get it on the 109 to try it with the rest of the system and if I'm happy with it mk 2 will be more involved.. ..isn't it always, will mean moving centre/rear fuel tank forwards,changing tank breathers and connecting pipes, winch mount fab in front of rear x-member etc etc cheers Steveb
  7. [quote name='dollythelw' date='Oct 31 2007, 10:07 AM' post='194082' new toy next season though more speed, more power, easier to use, less space. Any more clues on the new winchs then Jez? are we talking industrial or deepsea fishing winchs? or are you looking at self build? drifting OT a bit but I've been daydreaming about multispeed annular gearbox drive with load sensed gearchanges as a basis for a winch drive for a while....I mentioned using such a set up to my local hydro engineers and he has obviously been thinking about it too cos the chat got very techy very quickly ...nothing conclusive though.....it's probably just added weight to the rumours that I'm a bit nut's cheers Steveb
  8. Hi Jez, Hope all is well with you and Protoprincess, are your drums wider on Petals winchs? and what do you think about the mainshaft being heat treated? or possibly even forged on the std winch , it is certainly chunky . I can see your point about leccy valves and remote control on Petal for what you do with her , and as you say its very controllable on the loud pedal , is your pump drive 1:1 off the crank with the flailing chains of death ? Cheers Steveb
  9. Thanks for the replies all , did you heat treat the new shaft Pete? any pics of the shaft before building it in? also did you increase the dia at all to reduce any risk of whip/increase torsional rigidity over the extra length? Orgasmic Farmer - a joy stick control- now I hadn't considered that , that is now on the list of options for the 90 would take a bit of practice getting used to it but would be very effective I think KKK2 as Luke said I prefer the manual control for proportional control, its what I've been used to for years...maybe I should try someone's truck with leccy valves to see how it feels Old spot going slightly OT what class did you enter on the Ladoga this year, and with what vehicle? Are you hoping to enter next year? thanks again for all the replies , keep it coming cheers Steveb
  10. Hi Pete, Thats what I've had in mind, how did you deal with the shaft ? my conclusion was similar to Siwhites , make a new shaft, which is not out of the question. did you use solid bar for the drum and gun drill it or thick wall CDS tube? looks nice Pete however you've done it. What motor is that? cheers Steveb
  11. Not with this install on the 109sw as this is my daily drive , when I put the MM's on the 90 it will be a crank driven pump, more suited to challenge/ raid use. The 109 is only used for marshalling playdays and greenlaning/ overland travel(hopefully).... although having said that I'm hoping to enter tourist on next year's Ladoga with it As for twin lever vs change over Si & Luke , I've gone for changeover as I've already got a remote cable operated in/out valve under the floor and felt again because of the overall package a 12v leccy c/o valve would work ok. The 90 will be twin lever for comp use though...aahh I love the smell of a vapour build in the evening . Also & not least this way is relatively cheap to get it up and running to try it out, can always come back to it with an upgrade later. Steveb
  12. Hi Josh, Yep I'm fine ta , the rear will be off the pto pump and valveblock that powers the front one , switched through a change over valve , so should work well . Having read through the tech archive on here I will also need an overcentre valve to lock the winch in the event of a hose failure. see you sunday cheers Steveb
  13. There are several people on here using MM hydro winchs on here I think, and as I'm installing my rear MM on my 109sw now its made me think about making a longer drum/ driveshaft. Have any of you done this and if so how did you mod the drive shaft? Another question that I have is do the plastic drum bearings last ok or has anyone replaced (with some machining) these with roller/ball bearings? Finally is it worth fitting a grease nipple to the gearbox or does it not need replenishing regularly? and what sort of grease? waterproof might be good but what sort of wt? cheers Steveb
  14. Yep as said above yellow/red/black the freewheel t/box stopped in 1950 when the yellow knob 2wd/4wd t/box started. It should also have a very cute small oval dash with speedo, fuel, amp meter and ignition/headlight switch. Engine should be the 2 litre F head . The seat cushions locate in the seat box with 2 rubber bungs Land Rovers were nice and basic back then. The spare wheel was a optional extra back then too Lovely vehicle for there time tho and iconic now Cheers Steveb
  15. Depending on your tyre size you might find that a km/h series speedo will give a close approximation to the correct speed in mph - its what I did on the last coiler88 I built, distance recording might be a bit out tho. The cable fits as Tonk says. HTH Cheers Steveb
  16. Yeah Missingsid , it was definately one of those " I can't believe I'm doing this" moments , still with me 18 years on . My mate whose truck it is now has 6 explorers and some other nice toys incl GMC 6x6's and a couple of thornycroft Antars. Bill - a difflocked Pioneer now that would take some stopping .....I did have some rather bad thoughts about agri tyres on it when we were playing , bargrips are still bargrips no matter how big they are B) cheers Steveb
  17. I came across an old Scammell Extractor in a farmyard near me a few months ago , they are a 6x6 civvy truck I think . It looked early '60's . If anyone is interested could go back with a camera and take some pic's. I had a drive of an Explorer offroad hillclimbing and bumps a few years ago - awesome machine. Cheers Steveb
  18. Nice write up Zuz, sounds like a mad few days ..whats the typeR moment about then? do tell B) any photos of the " uuuuuuu nice tyres" ? Steveb
  19. Whats the crank pulley/ damper assy like ? did your mechanic heat it to remove it? or use a puller on the outer pulley section? if so it could be the bonded rubber is damaged. This will cause vibes and should be replaced asap. hth cheers Steveb
  20. Well done Jez & Kim n support peeps , nice result . Looks like a great event , bullet proof camera has to be high on the list with that punch recording system I reckon cheers Steveb
  21. Hi Hendrik, don't know how to do linky thing but there is a thread on here somewhere from Petergg showing his 36v alt install ....this was a 24v upped to 36v nominal.. I think it has such luxuries as greasable bearings too ..certainly works well B) . As for sourcing Ithink these are fitted to coachs etc but might be wrong.....coach alternators are made up to 300a + @24v, chunky tho. cheers Steveb
  22. Yep, engine out , crank out , was only one bent rod tho, the crack in the inlet port let enough water in to hydraulic that cyl & bend the rod.....first time I've come across that happening learn something new most days Cheers Steveb
  23. This was my experience... bent enough to not clear the bore , only way is out from underneath. Steveb
  24. Hi Bowy , sounds a bit odd that only 1 & 3 have hit , Like Les said you would hear the bigend brgs (pronounced knock). Are all the pistons coming up to the same hieght at top of stroke? if not you either have worn out bigend brgs or bent conrods.If the rods turn out to be bent , and this can happen with a cracked water jacket in the head , , you will have to have the engine out as the piston and rod come out from below. I have seen pistons hit cyl heads through big end wear so it may well be as you have been told......I have just been thro all this with a cracked 300Tdi head = bent rod = new head + conrod etc. hth cheers Steveb
  25. Capacity could be an issue in that location , there isn't much volume in something the size of a heaterbox/fan assy. It might need a 3rd fitting for the leak-off return depending on what you are running.Mine has baffles but its 7 gallon. I've also got a magnet inside to catch any metal particles that shouldn't be there .My filter is an in line 1" feed in and out. so wossit for then ? mmm hydro B) cheers Steveb
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