steve b
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Posts posted by steve b
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They've been putting the time in , that has moved on a whole lot. Is it on the original springs? It looks quite high, although it is still in build so more to add yet.
Do you have a first road trip in mind yet?
Steve
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I know someone with a LWB Santana over in southern Spain , that has a 2.5N/A Rover diesel. The rear brakes are 11" Rover SLS drums , not sure what the fronts are.
Leaf sprung with a Rover rear diff and anti-roll bar. Transmission is LT230/LT77.
Not sure about the steering box arrangement either. The owner has said there seems to be little knowledge or parts listings locally for him which seems odd as Santana started a long while ago.
My thoughts are more local research on parts and mechanical details along with body types (and material - GRP or ally) before jumping in. It may turn out that an Iveco 4x4 van/truck might be a better choice?
Welcome to the forum too - lots of camper builds on here to whet your appetite....
Steve
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Shared knowledge does it again
Nice one Ian
Steve
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56 minutes ago, Jott21 said:
Hi all,
alright so the problem is fixed! I put the proper copper washers on the turbo feed, new EGT plate gasket, and new rocker cover gasket on and one if not all of those fixes solved the smell issue. Thanks for all the help here!
Good to hear it's done the job. By all means hang around and carry on posting pic's
Steve
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Good to see you here again.
The main thing with any engine change or upgrading the current engine is cost against the financial gain in fuel consumption.
I sort of still fall on optimising what you have for best economy including tyres that are narrow and entirely road based to reduce drag.
In line with that I would say a low boost supercharger might suit your goal for this.
@Nonimouse has experience of forced air induction on 4 cyl. petrol engines I think
Steve
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Probably, but my Tdci experience is limited , not sure there is any other mix point? maybe someone else can chime in ?
Good call on draining the oil to check it
Steve
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The oil around the rocker cover joint is the seal - they do benefit from a small bead of gasket seal in the groove of the cover before fitting the seal , That turbo oil feed leak is it , very hot there so the oil burning off will stink.
The washer should be copper or aluminium top and bottom of the banjo.
Blanking all the holes from cab to under bonnet or outside is top of the list too , even if it's just duck tape to start with.
I like the double cab with just 2 doors , looks very useful and great pic's , thanks.
Steve
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15 minutes ago, fmmv said:
We are just assuming it is the turbo here. Was it very smoky when it ran away? It must have been sucking oil from the intercooler if so, maybe it just burned what it had. Was the engine smoky before this happened? There may be another cause (I can't think what) so be careful if you decide to try a start.
that's why I said disconnect the turbo to inlet hence removing either excessive breather delivered oil or failed turbo seals, there's not much else to provide engine oil into the inlet, you may be right that it just picked up resting oil from the intercooler built up over time but that too will be isolated.
I always have something solid to block the inlet manifold should it take off when doing this test , just in case.....
Steve
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If there is oil in the sump and it turns over ok then trying a re-start with the inlet disconnected from the turbo to isolate the turbo oil leak (and boost) if it has failed should give a decent indication of the rest of the engine state.
Was the ignition already off when it stopped "on it's own"? If so that is positive suggesting only a small amount of oil to self fuel , bloody scary when it does happen speaking from experience...
Steve
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Is everything else normal ? Smoke when driving? fluid leaks anywhere? Normal boost?
The seam weld on the exhaust downpipe does rust through with age causing pinprick holes right under the cabin area.
Diesel leaking should be obvious , but check around the inj. pump and the wading drain bung hole at the bottom of the timing belt housing.
I doubt winter diesel additive would cause any issues
Some pic's of your truck in the vast space and skies of Montana would be great
Steve
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Turners list this as ERC8450 for late 5mb 2.25 and 2.5 diesel.
The earlier 3mb 2.25 is 568335
Beru are a good brand.
Steve
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A few drops left will be fine I'd say , top tip if the head ever comes off again is to remove the block drain then there will be no coolant above the block face.
A check of the oil colour after a minute running will confirm oil condition.
Steve
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Even more interesting then , there were a lot of Land Rovers sold to nearby countries for civil utilities/services and military use - it was covered in "The Last Overland" on TV recently but I can't recall which country it was....
Steve
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That's interesting, I thought Falcon's was probably a one off but that looks the same and would appear to be in Oz?
Steve
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It'll be fine, you were on the ball with the first start up safety.
Another step being done eh
Steve
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Haha , they have the strangest price list system(?) ever - I spotted the rubber 4mm bore turbo to actuator pipe for a 300 listed as £113 +VAT genuine....it's about 80mm long and was fixed with standard rubber pipe
Don't write them off completely , things like coil springs and dampers are priced more realistically
Steve
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1 hour ago, andy.cowman said:
Haha that was a month ago - ended up doing new front prop, ujs, diff rear seal, removed and inspected the diff, new gaskets, new wheel bearings, one new stub axle and new brakes.......then it was me whining about the state of my bank account.
Springs have arrived and they are very yellow! Got the first one in last night so hopefully today the other three will follow
Was there much of a price difference between those and genuine?
Steve
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That's possible and easy to get to
That could explain the hazards too?
Steve
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The quality of bulb fit with replacement light units is variable to say the least , glad you found it
Steve
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The other common point is the earth connection to the inner wing ?
If the wiring loom is not clipped up (or broken clips) it can chafe too
Steve
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4 minutes ago, ianmayco68 said:
Thank you both , yes one of my better ideas the red block. The front two are still in and there’s no oil at the rear of the block . It actually looks like the oil came from the front corner of the block from between the head and the block . You wouldn’t think that much oil could come from there would you?
Oil pumps move more than one would expect
, again from hard bitten experience , thankfully mostly in my (very) younger years but it's hard to forget an oil lake under the 4 poster....
Steve
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Painting the block a bright colour is a good thing - as your pic's show - any oil shows up really well.
Still a simple fix Ian and looks a cracking build.
That oil leak is the supply to the top end so the fact the top was not dry shows your oil pump is tip-top too
Steve
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6 minutes ago, ianmayco68 said:
@Peaklander just asked on my rebuild thread about cam shaft seal but no oil came from the drain hole at the base of the timing case . The more I think about it the more I think it’s from the oil filter housing, as the majority of the oil fell that side of the engine , the highest point it hit was that corner it was dry from that point back but some had sot over run across the top of the timing case and run down the other side .
That would do it and so much simpler than an upside down HG
Steve
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, again from hard bitten experience , thankfully mostly in my (very) younger years but it's hard to forget an oil lake under the 4 poster....
RRC body/shell refurbishment specialist recommendations
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Agree entirely on the variable quality with replacement springs and dampers . Now you have mentioned the police spec I do remember you mentioning that before. Having built a few RRC's from the chassis up it is surprising just how much mass goes on at the final finish build stage .
Steve