discomikey

you have no idea how much a tool cart makes a difference to life in the workshop, so long as it is well set up! sorry for the carp photos, my windows phone decided to die on me, right at the moment (Mildly miffed up) where i exclaimed it would NOT die, and threw it on the floor and stamped on it, these are taken with the tablet as a result. 90% of the jobs i do now i dont have to go near my stack! when i do, there is space for the tools (as you can see here) on top in a neat arrangement. i am one of those "leave tools on every single surface possible then spend an hour looking for that ratchet or extension" poeple, but ever since getting this, i have been able to keep things much neater much easier. this is as left after removing and stripping my series geabox due to a 50p pin breaking. no tools on benches, or the ramp, or the floor etc and so much quicker! screwdrivers go here hammers, pry bars, common pliers and ratchet spanners 1/4&3/8 socket set along with 1/2" metric impact sockets, drain plug kets, e torx sockets, and torque wrench anything from the other box temporarily resides here during a job impact gun, drill, inspection lamp etc hang off here: so so much more useful than to and froing from the main stack! having everything to hand and not underneath other tools having to root around!

Then I would find out how embarrassinglying little torque I actually have haha

I won't do that then haha

My parts book seems to cover all the suffix numbers, however only features the two piece design, wierd. My box must be an earlier (suffix C or earlier) box, despite what the transfer box says, I have swapped it out.so I'm assuming I will need the earlier gear.

That may be ideal! I plan to slightly alter my fuel system to return to the filter housing rather than the tank, then measure before that. Should only need the one sensor then?

Hi all, my box needs a new second gear, as it is jumping out on overrun. My manual shows 2 part numbers, one part number serves up to and including suffix C, and the other serves suffix D onwards. Is there an important difference between the two? Tooth count? Internal diameter etc? I don't want to order the wrong one and have to wait another week. Also, bush frc4076/4077 seem to have been a single piece which has broken into three on my gearbox, where the part manual shows it as 2 pieces, not the one. If it is 2 pieces, I can't see how the second piece is retained from spinning on the shaft, as the first piece is retained by a small pin. Cheers,

i had a look this morning and cant see any that arent majorly overpriced, im after one too, if you see any under £100

Maybe your clutch is dragging then? Try changing the slave cylinder (asumming it's hydraulic)

Currently struggling to find a suitable fuel flow sensor which looks like it will cope too...

So to me the options are as follows. Find a motor capable, and create a coupling system to fit to the back of the speedo head, control with PWM, and calibrate using sat nav, this is less neat, but retains the standard odometer. Or, pull speedo apart, drive needle directly with a stepper motor of some sorts, control with PWM, and calibrate as above, odometer function will be lost, but a screen can be employed as above for this, maybe can turn into a multifunction screen too, showing mpg etc. Neater, but more expensive and time consuming. Either way, I will need to try and graft a td5 sender onto a series transfer box

To save boring you with the maths, to use an unmodified (ish) speedo head and just drive the input with a motor, therefore keeping the standard odometer, the motor needs to be able to cope with 2,200rpm, assuming max speed is 100mph, or 1550rpm assuming max speed of 90mph. This is running 235/85R16 tyres, and 3.54 differentials with a speedo drive of 2.2 prop rotations per speedo rotation.

I'll have to dig out my old discovery binnacle and have a go with it.

This is what poly bushes do to an extent, the issue with doing what you say with normal bushes is that it means the bolt becomes a wearing part, and may snap eventually. I looked quite in depth into various methods of getting around this without modifying anything other than bushes, nothing I looked at seemed as if it would last too long under hard conditions though.

I did wonder whether to use a stepper motor directly mounted in the speedo head, connected to the needle directly rather than through the magnet assembly, however this would bring the need for a digital odometer too. Some stepper motors can include closed loop control iirc. My other option was to butcher a discovery rev gauge and use the actuator for that, it is driven by pulse, and as a result I think it could be driven via a microcontroller. I will be using a simple pid type control methodology either way so it will have to be closed loop I think. P.s. is that 2.2 speedo cable rotations per prop rotation?

I run an 88 pickup, 90% of the time unladen, 10% of the time almost over laden, it rides almost perfect over the front axle, however the front roll stiffness is quite low, as to be expected. The rear roll and ride stiffness is much harder, as a result, it doesn't roll much overall but the ride is choppy. Put 100kg in the back and it rides perfectly. A high rear roll stiffness naturally induces oversteer, however I actually find the dynamics of my truck more like neutral steer, with a slight hint of understeer, until you put your foot down and it pitches into the bend nicely. I think the bushes restrict the bump stiffness quite a lot as if I were to slacken off the shackle bolts it rides beautifully.

I ire the springs sit out wider on a 109 in comparison to an 88, also the rear of a 109 is Salisbury, most likely because a rover axle is much weaker, what kinds of work does your truck do?

Sorry IF this seems a bit stupid, but isn't that just sensing the speed, not actuating the speedo head? I messed about with a 10 motor on the back of a spare head today using a scale extricate transformer as the power source but it could only manage 30mph, what is the revolution of the speedo drive per propshaft rev?

The engine shouldn't make a difference, double clutching just takes some getting used to especially changing down

Try changing the oil first, if you need the oil spec I can tell you tomorrow

manual or automatic? if its manual, the clutch master or slave cylinder could be on its way out? when was the last time the gearbox oil was changed?

Pictures and link to owners facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Defender-Channel/183789311816509?fref=photo lets hope he gets it back.

sounds quite likely to be the engine mounts then, try these ones, they seem to be about the best in the market. a lot of good reviews

is it related to engine revs? if so you could have hard engine mounts, but if there is play in the slip joint i would recommend replacing it, and replace the UJ's on the rear shaft if you suspect them. if not just give them a good greasing while youre under there

with a slight lift, you shouldn't feel any propshaft vibration issues, is there any play in the slip joint? i would be checking for the same thing in the rear too. if the slip joints are fine then just replace the UJ's with new decent units spicer or GKN, not britpart. incidentally, if you want to replace the propshafts as whole units, i would encourage to buy britpart, as they are repackaged spicer/GKN units, but they are cheaper.

ive never managed to get the rubber ones to stick in place, i have to keep my vents shut otherwise they fall out