discomikey

So all this hard work at university learning how to drink has finally paid off! It all started a few weeks back where I saw an advert for a job on Facebook, had a good couple of thousand shares so I thought it was no chance but what harm would it do to apply? I was surprised to receive a reply the next day inviting me for an interview, I took the interview and a day later I received the news that I was required to complete a small engineering challenge (create a production drawing for a generic sheet steel part) and a second interview, gave it a punt and they said they would let me know by the end of this week. Turns out I learned 'how to do an engineer' at uni, as a result I have recieved a job offer from......... ONLY BOWLER MOTORSPORT! I genuinely fell off my chair! Safe to say I'm quite pleased with myself!

I have (as others my have in agriculture) been involved in a few tows that were a little on the heavy side, one off we had a pull and push tractor. The one in front pulled up hill and the rear one pushed, bumper to bumper with the trailer. Down hill it was the other way around. This requires short tow straps, and much care and attention. Towing a 3.3 ton boat on a 0.2 ton trailer would be possible but a traiper that light would not be rated to enough. Borrow a tractor if it's a short distance. On a standard b+e, I believe you can tow a total train weight of 24t with a tractor (assuming trailer is properly rated) I could be wrong with this though so double check (I have just got back from the pub after all!)

I just made my own leak down tester from a compression tester, but there are no gauges. Even so it is still really useful!

as a baseline, if unplated, or dont have access to the plate until i actually arrive to a trailer, i "assume" it will weigh roughly 800kg unladen, (if it is around 12ft) that is based on our GE DM12T and a variety of similar sized flatbeds i have towed, so i would suggest 600kg is an underestimation (unless it is one of them fancy car transporting ones with the speed holes all over it!) as mentioned, a few trailers weigh over a tonne unladen, so assuming weights isn't the best way to go. if you have B+E then this isn't a legality concern rather than a comfort-ability concern. your vehicle* should be well within its comfort zone with these predicted weights though. *IF in good working and SAFE condition

i have a mate who is well into winch challenges etc, he would probably take one for testing if you need it

I was led to believe co2 welds had more penetration but argon was more superior in every other way? Either way the results are normally negligible penetration wise I'd go for a co2/argon mix as suggested.

Precisely, Personally, I would find and install an international 2.8 over a cummins, but it would be on par with a td5. Purely for the noise a td5 makes though more than performance.

What other gearbox would cope with a 200 mile round trip at 80mph COMPLETELY dry of oil? And still only need a couple of bushes, and synchros, totalling less than £50? they're not the quietest, smoothest, or most easy to drive with, but they take a lot of punishment ant when they do fail, it's usually something that will still get you home! Plus a blindfolded buffoon could rebuild a series box, so if it does go wrong, it's not too much of an issue anyway ☺

glad to hear you're ok and making a recovery, get well soon, and thanks for the words!

The white smoke you will be seeing on overrun will be vaporised diesel, my guess is he advanced the timing slightly, which would make the vehicle run better at higher rpm, but would make idle more tractor like and as a result of the advanced timing, the fuel does not have time to burn in an overrun situation, therefore coming out white rather than the partly burned black/grey smoke

Yeah, had seen those cheers bowie, and no there isn't much that doesn't require a tenner postage and a short while to arrive lol

I want my old 2/4wheel drive 110 hi cap back so badly!

There are 2 types of brake pad retaining system, one is a spring on a pin type affair, where the other is a bent piece of spring steel which pushes down on the top of the pads. This could well have fallen out or come loose, inspecting and then renewing these would be my first step.

Just standard lucas toggle switches, either that, or the generic classic style silver lever toggle switches. Like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-Amp-Toggle-Switch-Polarity-Reverse-DC-Motor-Control-/360100135670 These are fairly steep with postage added thoufh

Small but important update. These doors are amazing! Why would anyone convert from one piece to split doors? I see no benefit St all, it is literally like going backwards. I left the door cards off until now in case I had any issues or rattles, pleased to say it's all good, however 2 days ago my drivers window winder jammed, and I could not get the window down. So I scavenged my disco front doors for parts and now have electric windows! These aren't as compact as the ventral parts mickey used, and took a lot of inner panel modification. I had to modify the disco quadrant assembly to the right lengths and offset, and space the inner door handle out by 12 mm but you don't notice it when the door card is on. I also had to use the passengers assembly on the drivers door and vice versa. Now struggling to find some momentary motor reversing switches which match the rest in my truck, as a result all wires are ran but I only have a switch for the drivers door and it is a latching switch so you have to be careful There are switches about but it will be £20+postage for the two

In short, yes, welding repairs to a chassis is a common occurance.

Most likely to be an issue with your floor and transmission tunnel not letting the hi/low lever engage fully if you haven't rebuilt the transfer box. Try checking that you are getting full movement on the lever.

I keep threatening to do that, but I never have any pipe around.

something i have been really missing for a long time, especially with the amount of times i have rebuilt series boxes: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Series-Gearbox-Overdrive-Mainshaft-Nut-Tool-600300-/151633873915?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item234e154bfb surely it can be made and sold for less than £85?? at £25 I would have one tomorrow. i would make one if i had access to a decent mill and lathe!

there are a lot of "200bhp" TD5's about, most of them i am not convinced actually create that amount of power. i have managed to keep up with a few in my (highly tuned) TDi, i cant see mine making any more than 135-140, although never had it dyno'd. as a result i cant see how that extra 60+ horsepower does nothing? i have been in a claimed 230bhp TD5 and that was fast though. he had to have a paddle clutch fitted to take it and was forever going through drivetrain components. i would love to see the numbers achievable with an international 2.8 engine too. they seem to be really strong in standard form

http://www.usprotoolboxes.com/tool%20carts.htm

here is a link to their website, although there are better deals on eBay most of the time, couldnt find any today, mine was £80 brand new delivered. you will want rubber castors on them though, and the two drawers dont come with liners, but the top does. i cut some liners out of some EVA foam

not exactly sure, the cart itself was a steal off our favorite generic internet auction site, i think £80, some go for less, brand new. ball bearing runners, independant drawer latches. it beats my halfords proffesional boxes hands down for quality, and comes with a warranty. the only thing is the castors arent really the best, ideally i would get some decent ones (Soft wheels) and 4x swivel rather than 2x fixed. if theres one thing you have to splash out on, its castors! you must go for some good quality castors! otherwise the whole box and its contents will rattle over rough concrete!

i had rover metro cloth seats in mine for a while, they were thick in the base and gave a good driving position (for a relatively short person) the lumbar support wasnt the best, but apart from that once you had shoehorned yourself in it was quite comfy! i quickly outgrew those however and reverted back to defender seats. if i had a 110 county (with no rear bulkhead) i would fit p38 rangie seats, a mate had them in his, and they were lush. really high, but so comfy, and had armrests!

i know of a couple with them fitted, personally i dont see much more benefit than a well tuned pump with a standard pin. obviously there is a difference in fuel delivery at certain loads, and in a way it is more or less fit and forget, but i wouldnt say mine is underpowered, just by rotating the standard pin, and playing with a few other settings.