miketomcat
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Posts posted by miketomcat
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Generally the cupped side of the seal (the side you can see the spring). Goes towards the liquid your trying to keep in and the flat side out.
Mike
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This may not help but I've fitted a freelander seat in my ibex. I know it's not the same as a defender or a p38 for that matter but it may give you some ideas.
The extra brace on the drivers side is because the seats have an integral seat belt in the middle.
Mike
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Yes it is clamped I don't have a torque wrench that goes high enough so usually tighten it with a scaffold tube on my power bar. Clearly last time it wasn't tight enough, hopefully this time it is.
Mike
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Well took the timing cover off today. Crank bolt wasn't very tight so after a fight with the crank pulley (had to use a puller all the way off). I found two knackered keys a very worn cam belt crank pulley and a little wear on the crank. I've taken a pulley and keys off another engine and rebuilt with a new cam belt. If it starts rattling again then I'll need a new crank.
Mike
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To be honest if you want this kind of major change buy a newer 110 with at least the right type of doors. iirc td5 loom has a loom that just plugs in. There is two reasons i say this:
first, why ruin a classic 110 by removing the one thing that sets it apart from the rest. (Yes I have a early 110 with sliding windows)
Two, the money it will cost to convert probably £2000+ To do it with the right second hand parts will go a long way to a replacement 110.
Mike
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Hats off to those who served to give me the life I lead.
Mike
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I suppose there's nothing stopping you making some posts that bolt to the four corners of the scissors giving you perhaps a foot of clearance from the platform to chassis.
Mike
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4 hours ago, JohnnoK said:
I don't know if the regs will allow it, but what about repurposing a forklift's lift gear with arms that recess into the floor so you can drive over them?
It will tuck up against the wall nicely and be out of the way.
Now there' an interesting idea I like that.
Mike
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Putting the rad in the back adds water and tubing thus adding weight. Nuff said me thinks.
Mike
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Hmmmm lancia stratos....i need a moment I'll be back shortly......
Mike
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Right tonight I have changed the vac pump again for a known second hand one whilst the original issue is still there (New servo me thinks) the brakes are back to how they were.
The clattering is definitely a little quieter but still not right. I've cracked the injectors one by one but no difference. I think the noise is coming from the cam or cam pulley area I guess the timing chest will be coming off soon.
Mike
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I think it' more top end than bottom but a good shout.
Mike
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The story starts a way back. First we found on the third brake in quick succession the servo assistance had gone. After various checks I lifted the lid on the vacuum pump to find a well worn vain spindle so ordered a new one. In the mean time I noticed it getting clattery then noticed a leak from the bottom of the injection pump. New vac pump arrives and I fit it. Now I have no servo assistance at all the pump is drawing no vacuum at tick over and half of bugger all at elevated revs. So I assume this new one is knackered and noticed a slight miss fire on initial start up but it clears. Today I've changed the vacuum pump it seems to draw better but haven't driven it yet. I've also changed the injection pump but it's still clattery not quite as bad as it was I think but that maybe wish full thinking. The start up miss fire still seems to be there.
Ideas and suggestions on cause of Clattering (yes I know it's a diesel and they clatter but this is more than normal).
Mike
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Mine is stalled purely on financial grounds. It only needs a couple of weeks of evenings to be ready for the IVA but I can't afford to put it on the road at the moment. So it will have to sit there till I can.
Mike
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Ross's surface rust is most definitely in the head.....

Mike
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11 hours ago, TSD said:
I had some plans to revamp the site to cover the build of 2Bex, the LWB Ibex that some swine from this forum cajoled me into buying earlier this year, but not much has happened there yet (on the website at least, the ibex build is under way)
.
Mike
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Thank you for the reply. I have replaced the alternator and yes duff diode is the conclusion I've been given by TSD.
Mike
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The truck is a 110 with a disco 200tdi. This morning driving to work I smelt hot metal a quick check showed a hot alternator and the warning light came on and stayed on when the engine was shut down. If I start the engine the light goes out. I've disconnected the battery which has turned the warning light out. I had no problems yesterday. So do we think the alternator is toast or would a regulator pack(I have one) fix it.
Mike
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Unless you 89 "defender" is a 110 then it has a Salisbury axle already so you either need a disc braked Salisbury from a 300tdi or early td5 110 or you can do a disc conversion. If your truck is a 90 then you need a rover axle from a 300tdi onwards 90 or a Discovery (300tdi disco have a different input flange but can be swapped) upto td5. Salisburys go from £400 up. Rover go from £50 for a ten spline and £100 up for a twenty four spline. I'd be looking at £500-600 Salisbury and £150-200 for a rover but if you don't know what your looking at take someone who does.
Mike
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Lift pump is easy to check undo the bleed bolt on the fuel filter then pump the manual priming lever on the lift pump. If you get a good jet of fuel from the bleed hole the lift pump is fine. If it's weak then you may need to rotate the engine to get the pump to prime fully. But if that doesn't help then it's shot. (You may have some air the get rid of first).
Mike
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As far as I know you can use either pink or blue just don't mix them what ever you do. If you mix them they turn to jelly.
Mike
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You do need to take it out but it's only about 4 bolts and 2 cables. It takes about 10mins then you need to drill out the rivets open up the box change the matrix and put it all back together. I think it took me 2 hours all in and I've got a second one to do soon.
Mike
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3 hours ago, landrover598 said:
That was my plan A, followed by a D3
I think i'll have to test drive a D3 and see for myself, but the complexity and running costs are a bit off putting.
I've not been a fan of double cabs to be honest, the lack of real security would still be a worry when carrying valuable cargo.
Have a chat with TSD he loves and hates his D3 it's a great car but repairing it costs a small fortune. The price range you are looking at you could have a good one but you may not. D2 problems are mainly chassis related.
Mike
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I've put the clip back in using a bit of tube over the push rod to keep the clip pushed up against the ball. With a fair bit of buggering about you can get it all back together remove the tube then reassemble.
Mike

DRLs using a Stop / tail fitting where the side lights fit
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
The led side lights (nas size but not land rover) I have on the ibex do this but I haven't wired them up. Can't remember exactly but I think they can only come on when the engines running and the lights are off.
Mike