miketomcat
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Posts posted by miketomcat
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Mine look to be M8x20 cap heads.
Mike
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On 25/08/2017 at 9:20 AM, daveturnbull said:
Mike,
What type of fasteners did you use to hold on your trim panels (both hidden and exposed)?
The panels in the back are machine screws through into the frame behind. The main cabin has two screws either side of the roll bar the rest is either trapped, fixed with something else ie grab handles or glued in place with sikaflex.
Mike
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The other thing to remember is that crossmember hangs down a fair bit which can be a hindrance off road.
Mike
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3 hours ago, daveturnbull said:
The other fog light option is one of these.
I looked at those but they're £30 the lr relay was a fiver. Yes there is some other options but this was relatively simple.
Mike
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I sure it was in an effort to quiet it down iirc that mounting very expensive. On the ibex I've used 200tdi disco engine mounts and td5 gearbox mounts.
Mike
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So today I have a sore finger from cutting carpet with scissors.
And glueing it on.
That's the front done the tunnel was a pig I wish I'd made it flat now. The tunnel will probably get a cubby box of some sort later so I'll be able to hide the not so great bits. Hopefully tomorrow evening I can finish the rear foot well.
Mike
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They are from foers both inside and out but I believe they are JCB digger items. When I bought the body/chassis this was one of the many bits missing I did start to look for them but there is a few variants. So in the end just bought the correct ones for the door mounts from foers along with a pile of other missing parts.
Mike
PS post your rebuild up we all like watching others work.
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According to the IVA manual rear fog light must only operate when dipped, main beam or front fog lights are in operation. Must extinguish when side lights are turned off and remain off when side lights are turned back on.
However what manufacturers, MOT and construction and use say isn't necessarily the same as IVA. This I found to be the case for SVA so it wouldn't surprise me for IVA.
Mike
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Today's first job wire up the fog light simple you say I mean I've already got a switch in the loom. The trouble is the loom was made in the nineties and the IVA manual says the switch has to be momentary and the fog light must extinguish with the lights. Question a call to a friend to confirm that td5 has this facility he even gives me the part number for the relay and brings a switch with him. After lots of trawling I finally work out how to wire it all. Then the ham-fisted one manages to break the pins on the switch. Lots of head scratching and two cannibalised disco switches I end up with a disco rear wash switch with the correct emblem and working the fog light as it should.
The next saga is the indicators I have are LED so just fit the four pin LED relay into the five pin slot and nothing. Refit the standard relay and they flash to fast so after several false starts I end up at the resistor fix not quite what I wanted but they work now. Then all the dash, stalks and steering wheel can go on.
Finally I fitted the grab handles above the doors (primarily to hold the headlining in place) and the sun visors yes another IVA requirement (I'm 6'3" in need sun visors once on a Tuesday twice a year).
Mike
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I probably wouldn't weld them to the chassis but I don't see any reason there would be a problem welding them to the body.
Mike
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Finally got all the headlines finished the rear body has been hard work due to all the different angles. I'm quite happy that I've only got four exposed fixings in the main cabin on either side of the roll bar. The rear body is all exposed fixings but as it's only the dog that will sit in the boot is don't suppose she'll mind.
Mike
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I know rx8's are cheap and plenty full due to engine failure but why would you do that?
Mike
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Do disco 2 sliders normally bolt to the body not the chassis (like disco 1 sliders do) if so I can see why you want to weld them. As al say replacement and or sorting rust could be a problem in the future.
Mike
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1 hour ago, daveturnbull said:
Is that to colour co-ordinate with your wheels?
Absolutely.
I would of painted the whole car yellow but tsd got that covered.
Mike
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Flying spanners used the 2.8 Isuzu lump in petal (land rover based trophy raid racer) to good effect.
Mike
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The bfg muds I've just put on the 110 are 255/85x16 I know there not at's but I can strongly recommend them. There a great all round tyre.
Mike
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Those that know me well will agree I'm not renowned for being quiet and reserved so....
Yes that is canary yellow but I'm quite pleased with it.
Mike
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There is also the option of fibreglass doors. http://www.amaservices.biz/ama-grp-designs/4564590506
Mike
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Finished off the rear door check straps and internal door handle mounts.
This led me on to the door cards a final trim and add holes for the handle mounts.
Then I riveted them in place as there is no need to get behind them. Plus adding a small countersink to the holes mean the rivets sit almost flush. I did the front doors as well.
Just need to fit the catch covers and cover the small gap between the handles and panel. I'll probably use a neat sikaflex bead for this.
Mike
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I'm pretty sure you only need the tear off part of the v5 to sorn in the same way you only need that bit to tax it.
Mike
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You can do it online just a quick Google will find it but if I remember correctly you need the v5.
Mike
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That's where I got to with mine after several people told me they weren't legal. I still don't see why.
Mike
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Today I have reduced 3 sheets of 6mm ply into a pile of random shapes. Then did the same with 7m of cloth.
Cut to shape.
Evenly roller PVA glue onto the face.
Lay cloth in the right position and smooth out by hand.
Leave to dry then they will all go to work (due to my dead compressor) so I can staple all round.
Mike
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They look the same as mine. Personally I can't see why they would be non road legal but happy to be corrected (though I might have to find new wheels for the ibex in that case).
Mike
110 chassis dimensions
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
That crossmember looks the same as the one that was on 45 that I destroyed in Russia. It was definitely the original so I'd say yours is an original. You normally need to Jack the chassis apart to get them in or out.
The amount of twist in your chassis doesn't surprise me. To be honest I personally wouldn't worry unless it was in excess of an inch. I think there is a full set of dimensions in one of the manuals.
Mike