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miketomcat
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Posts posted by miketomcat
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Thank you for the kind words I guess I'm lucky that my wife is A. Understanding B. As bad as I am, we don't have tv so when the girls go to bed she goes to the gym or dog walking I go in the garage with a baby listener. Mind when she does stay in quite often I get can you just make this or that or.....
Mike
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Since having children I'm frustrated by lack of time so I do try to be as organized as possible to make the most of what there is.? The trailer had the added bonus of the wife wanting it for camping so of coarse more time was available. ??
Mike
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I've had the tank back out to fit a "fill" breather and the disco sender/pick up only to find the hole in the tank to small. I guess td5 sender is about 6mm smalller diameter also I didn't have a clamp ring so out with the grinder... Sometime later, a destroyed rotary burr and two flap wheels I have a clamp ring out of 3mm stainless and the disco sender fits.
The tank is all back in so time to think about pipe and cable runs. I've settled on the fuel and brake lines being tucked up on the inside of the top chassis rail. This left me with two problems the first is how the hell do I drill the chassis for pipe clips along side the gearbox.
My solution was to cut a drill bit down and regrind it. The second problem is I don't have enough room to clip the cables via this route my current thinking is on the outside of the top chassis rail it's a little more vulnerable on the outside but it should be high enough to not be a problem.
As you can see while I was there I ran the brake line too.
Mike
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I'm fairly sure 3050kg (class 7) is standard gross weight for a hardtop I think a county station wagon is something like 2950kg (class 4). Although both are around 2000kg unladen if anything a csw is slightly heavier than a hardtop.
Mike
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If I remember correctly:
Gross vehicle weight(max fully loaded)
Gross train weight(max including trailer)
front axle (max load)
Rear axle (max load)
Technically it should be class 7 MOT(van) but seems to depend on tester.
Mike
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I'm not disagreeing with you I doubt there are many older vehicles that actually meet the requirements.As far as I'm aware this is correct.
I read that different to you. My understanding of that document is that the component parts must be of the same spec, be it standard or optional extra, issued by Land Rover for the type of vehicle it refers to. You can't tell me there are many early Series 2's running around still on their original springs.
Like for Like in service repair/replacement is the ket to it, and on that basis, a vehicle that has been to Africa and back several times since it left Solihull in the 1950's or 60's, could quite well have had everything replaced.
To be fair this is the other problem how you interpret this is different to me and nobody knows who's right. You can't even phone them to ask as in the past I have and got four different answers until I finally got one that actually worked.
Mike
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Just 're read from here https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/rebuilt-vehicles it would appear it has change slightly since I last read it but it still states you need at least two original parts from a drive train list and either the original chassis/ monocoque or a new original spec chassis/monocoque (you need a recipt to prove this) to retain the vehicles original registration.
Mike
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I don't disagree that parts are dateable the problem is nobody ever checks and even if they did unless they are a geek or from the factory they can't tell. Most normal cars and parts are either date stamped or have serial numbers. More worrying is it was a VIC inspector that told me he couldn't date any land rover parts (except engine and chassis) this was a few years ago when I put the tomcat on the road mind.Its surprising but actually there are a lot more dateable items on a vehicle than you think , especially when the makers are asked by the right people .
I see the item has been removed from sale on ebay !
Mike
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The points apply to any part changed from the vehicle as per how it left the factory. So if you change all the parts for new you don't have any points of the original vehicle and iva is required, like wise if you change them over a period of time there comes a point when you tip the points against you and iva is required. The problem is no one checks as most cars it's actually unlikely you will change enough to hit the threshold. Land rovers are different as it's very easy because there on the road at least twice as long as your average car and it's almost impossible to prove that the parts on any given truck aren't original with the exception of engine, chassis and things like the op.
Sorry back on topic I doubt the number plate is even original.
Mike
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Technically not true if you were to do that you fall foul of the points system and need an iva. But of course that would involve either the builder being honest, an MOT man who doesn't like you or by some strange miracle a very sharp eye at a roadside check. If you were honest and iva'ed it you would probably get a brand new plate if it passed and you had receipts.While this is all true, don't you just love the irony that you could buy a new galv Series II chassis, all new panels, engine, g/box, axles and interior and build a 100% new vehicle. Then legally slap the plates and ID of a genuine S2 on it. And still have it tax exempt due to it's age.
Mike
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That area is quite well ventilated there is an inch gap all round the fridge and there is also a gap under the two boxes. We've had no issues so far.
Mike
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http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=89752&p=792925
Hopefully this is a link to my trailer thread.
Mike
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Just a quick update I had a bit of paint left after doing the ibex so here's a picture of the trailer in primer. The paint job is complete now but I haven't got a photo yet.
Next job for the trailer is a custom tent to fold out from it we have got a scorpion fox tent (army lean to tent for a tank) the plan is to use this as a sleeping compartment under a larger fly sheet.
Mike
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It took me 6 months to convince a girlfriend that I was not just trying to get in her knickers when I told her that. When she finally gave in she was amazed at how much warmer she was and that it was nothing to do with me either.Another tip a nurse told me, no matter how cold you are always remove your clothes when you get into your sleeping bag, as its your body heat that warms the bag up. If you leave you clothes on, your body heat wont be able to penetrate through all the layers to the bag.
Mike
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I have to agree that vango are very good I used them for many years before I used quecha. Vango quality is very good and I agree quecha is not as good however the attraction for me is speed of pitch they really are that quick to put up.
Mike
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Thanks western I way sure I'd seen it when looking for car iva manuals.
Mike
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I may be wrong but I think you can build your trailer then a form of iva test is needed so you need to build it to pass that.
Mike
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The main advantage with trans out is the above mentioned 3 bolts can be accessed easier by lowering the transfer and tilting the engine back. There still a pig but you can get a socket and long extension along the top of the gearbox. I must admit I just drop the boxes on the floor in one and either roll the car forward a bit (engine held up on a ratchet strap) or drag it back enough to get in there.
Mike
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I have to say I always drop the gearbox/transfer box to do a clutch but I also know it's 50/50 as to which is easier. Good luck either way Jeff.
Mike
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If you have a higher voltage at the battery then check all the connections including earths 11.5v is low so unless your battery is knackered you have a connection or brocken wire problem. The fact you have any voltage suggests the switch is working fine iirc 12v goes to the switch then to the lamp.
Mike
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Heat softens epoxy mind that may not help with plastic parts.
Mike
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Can't help you as all I can say is welcome to my world. ?
Mike
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Yes that is the part I was referring to could it be that an earlier version ie 50th had a part no superseded by the g4 part no. I think they are sold as a light bar as well.
Mike
300tdi belt shredded at 500miles (about)
in International Forum
Posted
Check the front casing where the idler bolts on I had a 200tdi that started taping not long after a belt change. The belt then snapped it turned out the casing had cracked pulsing of the pump was causing the idler to flex on its mounting hence the taping as it hit the front cover. This in turn shredded the belt it took me while to find it as at rest you could barely see the crack it was witness marks on the front cover that led me to find it. I replaced the casing etc and I believe the engine is still going strong in moose's racer.
Mike