![](http://content.invisioncic.com/r226025/set_resources_10/84c1e40ea0e759e3f1505eb1788ddf3c_pattern.png)
miketomcat
-
Posts
5,513 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
144
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by miketomcat
-
-
I agree you like what you like and you can make a 90 work with a family (we do) but you will need to consider some sort of extra storage roof box/trailer.
I have my ibex 300 I love the look the wife hates it but we both agree it's right inside for our needs (she's a tolarent wife).
Mike
-
Record vice's are way better than anything Clark can manage I have a Clark vice at home and record at work. The Clark is ok but you can't abuse it go and buy your self a press I have a cheap 10ton bench press cost about £120 from memory and contact record about yours.
Mike
-
After a whole load of no spare time and feeling carp over Xmas I've final managed to do something.
I'm using a discovery loom and when I took it out I realized it goes up over the doors inside the cabin so that was the routing solved and it's hung roughly in place. The rear is going to need extending by about 3' and I've had to move the main supply cables as the batterys are under the back seats but other than that it works out well.
Today I've got all the locks and catches fitted and working (no pictures for obvious reasons). It was a bit of a pig and I've had to do a fair bit with a diegrinder to get them to work but I'm happy with the result.
Also manage to work out where the rear lights are going to go I've settled on standard defender pattern but the rear panel is not as tall and narrower so whilst there is enough room to fit a number plate in I can't put it there. The IVA in it's infinite wisdom say I need a space around 40mm bigger than a standard plate so it won't fit my solution is going to be to mount the light vertically where the plate would be but up close to the door this mean the the plate can go on the door. Once it's on the road I'll probably end up moving it to the standard position covering any holes from the light with the plate.
Mike
-
Just a thought in cold weather grease goes really sticky try a clean up with degreaser then oil it don't use wd40 though as this also goes sticky after a short while.
Mike
-
Use anti bloc fett to stop firing up. Copper slip works but I'm not sure of the long term effects of adding another metal to the equation.
Mike
-
I think it's long gone by now I don't think there's even a trace unfortunately.
Mike
-
Don't use them for anything structural as they are nowhere near as strong as steel bolts.
Mike
-
I actually found my 110 much nicer for green lanes smoother and more comfortable, yes sometimes you need to shunt but to be honest if you can't drive a lane in a 110 then I question whether it should be driven with kids if at all. I loved mine the only reason I sold it was I didn't want a "normal" car and an ibex (mine is the same size as a 110) came up. My 110 had a 2" lift, 33's and a pto winch it was surprisingly capable.
Mike
-
I take both my girls (with and without the wife) off roading both in proper child seats. Gentle green laning from 1 year old (half day and extra padding around head). The eldest is now 4 and she's fine with your average site day but I don't play as hard with the girls in the truck.
Mike
-
Thank you for the replys I think I've bottomed out what I'm going to do/use dad is happy to machine if need be. The bearing is definitely 15mm but I'm happy we can work with that.
Mike
-
Just a point the middle seat and side facing seats are not legal for under 12's to use iirc. Middle due to no lap and diagonal seat belt for the baby/child seat and there not allow in side facing regardless of seats belt type so I believe. Oh and even the early exmoor forward facing seats (which I use) are not approved for baby/child seat use.
Mike
-
I had to sell my tomcat because I have children now believe me I tried everything to keep it there is no way it can work.
Our other car is a 90 (45) now you can get two adults, two children and a dog in but there is no other room so we have a tool box sankey for camping trips.
I did buy a 110 when I sold the tomcat it will do everything you want but I sold Mine to build an ibex 300 which I have precious little time to do it.
The bottom line is you can make do with a 90 (especially if it's only one child) but you may end up with a trailer. A discovery/range rover would be better but rusty and the boot is surprisingly small with child parafinala. A 110 makes more sence if a second child is planned for the future they aren't as big as you thing, a mondeo saloon is actually slightly bigger and it's a lot easier to put a child seat in a 110 csw than a 90.
Mike
-
The way I look at it if you have a snorkel you won't need it but if you don't you can guarantee you'll end up somewhere you do.
Mike
-
How easy is EN19T to machine my father used to be a machinist and has a lathe so I could give him an old halfshaft or would I be better buying a bit as close as possible to size.
Mike
-
You mean you didn't think to tie/prop the bonnet this time....?
Hat...... Coat......out of here.?
Mike
-
I've no idea how to calculate the winch is an ep9 (9000lbs) the truck will be in the region of 2000kg unladen. Below is a very bad picture the rope (in red) comes from the winch round the pulley across at 45° to a second pulley (nearly circular white bit) then down the chassis rail inside a tube straight line parallel to the centre line to the front.
This picture is the standard set up to give you the idea. In the second picture you can see the pin where my pulley will be here the snatch block is held in place by it.
Mike
-
-
I'm in the process of figuring out how I want to do the vector winch system on the ibex. As some already know the winch is mounted facing backwards the rope runs to the rear cross member round a pulley across to the chassis rail round another pulley then down a tube to the front. Normally the rear pulley is a snatch block on a removable pin but I'm not keen on this so I want a fixed pulley in the rear cross member. I've got some nice pulleys with a bearing in and a centre hole of 15mm so that rules out a bolt so it's going to have to be a pin but what grade if I had used a bolt it would of been 10.9 as this could have all the winch can muster on it.
On a side note my plan is then to have an aluminium fairlead just behind the rear pulley with a hole that's just wider than the pulley so for a rear pull you just pull the rope out through the fairlead and use a snatch block. This means one side is stationary between pulley and fairlead then on to the front the other side will roll on the pulley or slide on the fairlead (depending on angle) then back to the winch. Can anyone foresee a problem that I've missed the rope will be dyneema not wire.
Mike
-
Depends where you started from and how long it took to get there. I mean as I live just up the road from tescos technically we went tescos-bulgaria-tescos and only about 3000 miles in between.???Does Sainsbury's count?
Mike
-
Am I missing something every time I try to find the propshaft clinic I end up at d&f are they one and the same if so they are the company that got back to me but I can't seem to place an order with them.
Mike
-
That, is very clever Mike, one of yours?
No not mine just something I came across when researching the ibex it's on a kiwi forum talking about the vector winch system.
Mike
-
-
We took my tomcat to Bulgaria and back at Xmas a few years back along with tsd in his ibex on the way through Germany it dropped to -20 over night that was interesting.
Mike
-
I have a one piece prop definitely no bonnet spare and it wouldn't be strong enough anyway but I've no idea what age it's from.
Mike
Good chassis on A 1988
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
We have a g plate 90 chassis and bulkhead are original with no welding. My k plate 110 was rotten as a pear and already had a td5 bulkhead. I've seen plenty of rotten td5's. Nuff said.
Mike
I think the early one's are better but there are plenty of rotten one's to.