miketomcat
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Posts posted by miketomcat
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Mine didn't cost much but I had most the parts kicking around. I had to buy the calipers and axle brackets
Mike
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Convert it to discs it'll be worth more it's not a difficult job but getting the right parts is a little tricky.
Mike
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Problem found!.........G spec ####part bushes
Try gen parts. G spec is twaddle it's just an excuse to charge more.
Mike
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The first question is what are you going to use it for ie road/off-road. Are you set on a defender or is there other options. For instance say you want a family, everyday car that's never going off-road then whilst a 110 county station wagon will do a discovery, range rover or freelander will be more comfortable and easier to live with and cheaper.
If your set on a defender then yes it's a 110 county station wagon you need unfortunately you've picked the most expensive to buy.
Rust issues are:
bulkhead top corners and footwells.
The bottom of the B and C pillars.
Chassis outriggers and rear especially the rear cross member.
Door frames all of them mainly at the bottom.
The engine to pick is based on your use and skill. If you want to work on it yourself 200(very old now) or 300tdi are the easiest, bullet proof and non electronic.
If your going to use a garage td5 will be better as they can plug it in.
But the BEST single thing thing you can do (other than being on here) is find and join a local land rover club talk to people who have what your looking for they will be more than willing to help you in your quest.
Mike
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I had an interesting conversation with an marine aircon guy we were having trouble with noisy air ducts. He told us that closed cell foam is nowhere near as good as open cell for noise insulation this is not necessarily the best for our application though.
Mike
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I could cut some down but I need a 130/127 rear prop for the rear as my prop needs to be 1.2m these aren't exactly common. For the front I need 750mm so that's a disco rear or longer which will need to be phased to suit front use. plus whilst I can weld I'm not happy to set up and weld a prop.
Mike
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Thanks I'll give some of these a try I find it really frustrating all three companies I tried advertised one offs on there websites then can't be bothered to respond. Ideally they need to either post or be relatively close to Southampton.
Mike
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I'm trying to get some custom props for the ibex I've contacted gkn and Bailey Morris no reply from either. At the same time I contacted dunning fairbank, better they got back to me with a price and options. I've emailed the 3 times trying to place an order to no avail. Yes I know it's Xmas now but I started all this silliness in November.
So how the hell do i persuade a company to take my money and make a pair of custom props. Failing that can someone make them for me (i have/can get some to cut up) or recommend a company that will bother to make them. I'm only after standard props but longer.
Mike
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Aren't p38 axles the other way round just a thought don't know anything about them mind.
Mike
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4 bolt Defender/disco steering boxes are identical except the drop(Pittman) arm. I can use either drop arm it makes very little difference in fact most people over here swap the defender set up to disco as it deletes the God awful drop arm ball joint in favour of a track rod end. Yes mine is standard defender sorry no accurate way of measuring the angle. Ironically I've got a 90 with the disco drop arm set up but it's a bit dark for photos (the ibex photos were taken a while ago).
Mike
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Not disco but here is some pics of my ibex (disco front axle and defender steering box)
Sorry for out of focus lens fogged up and I didn't notice. All defender and disco axle/steering box positions are the same relative to each other it's only the radiator, engine and amount of chassis in front that changes.
Mike
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Moglite was but Andy never really did much with it. It was a whole load of work that didn't seam to gain much and it definitely didn't go fast though that was mainly down to axle issues. Not sure where it went in the end.
My tomcat was disco based we moved the engine back 10" this swapped the props front to back the engine ended up about 4" behind the front axle. It drove and handled very well on and off road. If I did it again I would use a defender lt77 not a disco one though as this would even the prop lengths up I ended up with a disco 2 front prop on the rear to stop vibration.
Mike
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I think the Chernobyl thing at least for me anyway is I remember it happening and it's a stark reminder of how wrong the human race can get it. That and the whole post apocalyptic thing. The one thing that makes me more determined to go there than anything is ALL the younger people I speak to have never even heard of it!
Mike
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Fail
Fail
Fail
Fail
Fail
And it's not looking promising any time soon.
Mike
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I can't remember the name of the colour but it's a standard lr colour mid blue to be honest I doubt it's around here now if it is I suspect it's in bits. I know we're being a lot more careful with ours now not that it will stop them if they want it.
Mike
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If that tyres size is correct your Speedo may be out as surely it should have 235/85x16's onAbsolutely no typos! My mum drives the RRS and she drives very gently
My TDCI 90 is an 08 plate with 26k on the clock. It has 235/75/16 MT's on mods, a straight through and decat. It absolutely drinks diesel.
It doesnt black smoke or give any error codes, only the usual injector rail high pressure one when its cold.
I knew it was pretty bad, which is why i did a services to services fill up to do my mpg
Mike
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My 200tdi disco tow weight is 3500kg so Nigel I guess yours is more to do with country than capabilities.
Mike
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A friends 300tdi 90 hard top was stolen last night it's blue with a white roof reg from memory is M3 HKN (private plate) deep dish alloys but fairly standard. Stolen from warsash I believe they took a fence down to get to it though it had very little fuel in it. I'll try and get some more info.
Mike
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That's very interesting as in the grp world you can not stick polyester over epoxy it simply does not stick. Epoxy over old polyester is no problem but new polyester has to be left for iirc 7 days before epoxy can go over the top.
Mike
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God no you might as well not bother than use hammerite.Just hammerite the things !
G
mike
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Ross if I had the money I would have the ibex axles galvanized.
I agree with others that powder coating will stay put no better than paint I've no doubt there is good and bad. I'm also sure yours will be the best it can be and look lovely the point is it will flake off eventually as will paint. Zinc passivate or galv only come off with wear.
You pay your money and take your choice paint/powder coat will be good, work well and look nice. Passivate/galv will be better and last a lot longer but not look as nice. Passivate tends to get surface rust after a while and may be better with a paint coating on top.
So back to your original question bare mating surface is the way to go but remember this will give you a bare edge for the rust to start from.
Mike
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Or you could adjust the steering stop bolts one one each hub it contacts the axle where the swivel bolts on. Undo the lock nut whined it out a bit then check when happy tighten the lock nut. You want about 5mm clearance and remember the bolt you adjust moves the opposite wheel.
Mike
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I'm really not doing well forgot the mpi as well though I've never seen one let alone been under the bonnet.
Mike
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+1I would prefer the mating surfaces to be bare, I offer you no scientific evidence to support this though ...... it's just my opinion.
Mike
Bobbed and caged RRC called The "JWH"
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Soren does your pto have a shear pin. Some faireys have three different diameter shear pins for different ratings. Mine is ex utility so 11mm cable and 7400lbf rating but for 8mm cable it's only rated at 3800 lbf. Mine has a clutch (makes a nasty clicking noise when over loaded) on mine you need to get the two plates as tight as possible.
Mike