[Overland caravan build]

A bit more laminating today.

These are the corner sections to join all the extension panels together. I haven't decided if they'll get an internal section yet to help hold it all together or just glue the panels and cap with these sections.

Mike

 

[Steering column UJ makes - opinions please]

I've had one fail in under a year, the replacement is allmakes so we'll see how that lasts. I normally buy bearmach but obviously that's no longer an option so I'm not sure what the one in there was, but I did buy a pile of random parts a while ago so it may of been from that. However I've also had a panhard bolt wear, I thought it was the bush but that's fine. The bolt though has quite a step in it. This is what lead me to find the UJ.

Mike

[Overland caravan build]

4 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

Looks great Mike! What’s the plan for the main back panel? More fibreglass?

I'm going to re-purpose the internal bulkheads to form the back, sides and roof of the extension. Most have holes in that will need repairing but still perfectly useable. The panel that formed the double skin roof for the freezer section only has glass on one side so this is going to be fitted and glued to the inside of the rear panel I made.

Mike

[Overland caravan build]

All trimmed and ready for the insulation panel.

Next are some angle sections to join all the panels together and the wheelarch mould.

Mike

[Overland caravan build]

In all seriousness I'm more than willing to talk through/help anyone with fibreglass work. Just pm me.

Mike

 

[Overland caravan build]

Just to show I'm not perfect.

This is known as pre-release it's where either the gel has come away from the mould before the mat was put on or the glass has got a little warm when curing and pulled it away. If this was to be a gel finish it would need to be sanded and filled with gel, but as I'm painting it can be filled.

Mike

[Overland caravan build]

This morning I de-nibbed all the spikeys and started to break it out. Crack all the edges off first by pushing them away from the mould. Depending on what type of mould you have and the shape will determine how to proceed from here. Mine is temporary so I can just undo the screws and pull it apart. Some moulds you break the edges then you just lever and wedge it out taking care not to damage the layup (it is possible to tear it).

As you can see the plants have come out still in the unit.

These get prised out remembering to go the correct direction for the shape. The plasticine can be scraped off and what's left wiped off with acetone. You can recycle the plasticine as long as it doesn't get contaminated. The radius left by the plasticine just needs a light sand.

The moulding can be trimmed, cleaned up and polished, though I'll be sanding it for paint later on.

Mike

[Overland caravan build]

Thanks for the kind comments. Honestly it isn't that hard, yes there is a knack but it's not difficult to learn. Staying clean whilst doing it is another matter. I'm known for being very clean when laminating but equally I've worked with guys who are very good at it but my god they make a mess.

With regard to hot resin (this applies to polyester, vinylester and epoxy), it can get hot enough to burn you. Normally it just gets hot, however it can smoke (Do not breath the smoke) and catch fire. The solution is simple though, a pot just needs some water pouring in, a fluffy for instance can be dropped into the pot with water in. Even still it can boil the water and melt the pot it's in.

Mike

[MOG LR hybrid axle build]

Along with a fairlead and wiring sid, Stephen do you ever actually sleep? I thought I was bad until I met you. Your a whole other level of can't sit still.

Mike

[Overland caravan build]

I forgot to add earlier once you've finished you need to clean your tools in acetone, you can squeeze out the fluffy and rinse it out but I recommend taking it off the handle and leaving it along with the other tools in the acetone (acetone evaporates so a lid will be needed). It's often easier to admit defeat and just bin the fluffy each time just remember it can get hot as it cures. Obviously this time your not going to be mixing all the resin at once so do it in small batches you can just add fresh resins to the pot and catalysise, but it's better to use a fresh pot until you get the hang of it. Scrape the worst of the old resin into the previous pot before moving it to the new pot (no need to clean it out but remember to do the same with the consolidator) it's worth reducing the catalyst as the previous mix will kick off the next. The same goes on the job especially on overlaps.

When overlapping onto the previous part you need to roll and consolidate the whole of the overlap before the rest of the panel because the previous layers will be curing this gives off heat which accelerates the bit you currently doing.

Mike

[Overland caravan build]

Once cured and cooled (probably best left over night) you can de-nib the spikey bits external corners are the worst, you may need to hoover the dust out. After the first layer is on or all other for that matter you have 28 days to complete your lay up, assuming it doesn't get contaminated (if you put your next layer on at 28 days the clock starts again).

Now your ready for the next layers as I'm only doing 3 layers and I know what I'm doing I did all three layers at once. If your a novice I'd do one let it cure then two more at the same time. Maximum of three layers at a time.

As before wet out, add a layer of mat, wet that out. Fluffy down any lumps as you go then add the second layer, wet out and fluffy down. If the mat is bridging and area carefully wet it out and let it soak for a minute then you should be able to stretch it into place, just remember when doing this you are thining the lay up so it may be better to cut or tear it and add a piece.

Again consolidate the area.

And fluffy to finish.

Mike

 

[Overland caravan build]

Normally you would put a second gel on at this point, especially if your not planning on painting and are just having a gel finish.

Now I've been doing this a long time and I'm going to be painting it at some point, so one gel it is. Next up you need to cut your mat roughly to shape, think dress making. You need to allow for some overlap but not to much. There is all sorts of mat/cloth I normally use 450g chop strand mat (CSM) not to thick that it's difficult to work but gives enough thickness to make a 2-3mm panel at 3 layers. I could use woven mat generally lighter and stronger but more difficult to use on complex shapes (this isn't particularly complex). On this occasion I'm using 600g CSM it's quick to lay up, gives good thickness (it'll be 3 layers so 4-5mm thick). 

Next you need to get so tools ready, I use a 4" fluffy roller, a paddle roller and a bolt roller. Have a box of latex gloves to hand along with a pot of acetone. CSM takes 2.5 times it's weight in resin so 1m² of 600g CSM will need 1.5kg of resin (woven cloth is 1:1 hence you need more layers to achieve the same thickness thus stronger). Mix up @ 2% again, wet out the area, if doing a large area split it into chunks (I've done this in two hits roughly 1m²).

Now lay your first layer over the wetted area and wet that out.

Once wetted out thoroughly you consolidate the area to get all the air bubbles out and draw the resin up through the mat. Once your happy you've push the mat tight into the corners and got the air out I give a quick roll over the lot with the fluffy to tidy the surface. This then gets left to cure.

Mike

[Overland caravan build]

Squeak test.

 

Ready for next coat.

Mike

[Overland caravan build]

44 minutes ago, Wytze said:

Loving this..   Well explained , you would make a good teacher

Actually I'm a rubbish teacher, Apparently I'm to condescending then I get impatient and just do it myself. I don't get given apprentice's at work.

Mike

[Overland caravan build]

Plasticine around the internal corners.

This gives nice rounded corners and makes it a lot easier to get the mat to sit in the corners later. More wax six coats in all.

I'm using white get because it's the cheapest and the whole thing will be painted later. You can get almost any colour you want including metallics. 1kg of gel covers roughly 1m² so I mixed up 2kg of gel with catalyst @ 2%. If it was colder I'd up it to 3% if hotter drop to 1%. Just a note here catalyst is nasty stuff, gloves and glasses are highly recommended (catalyst in your eye burns and will likely blind you). The mixed gel is then brushed on (larger areas can be rolled on with a mohair roller but you still need to brush it out), the trick is to get it on quickly then go over the whole lot brushing it out evenly. You only have about 20min working time (less if warmer, it can be as low as 8 minutes) once on it'll take roughly 1 hour to cure but it can take longer. The test to see if it's cured is known as the squeak test, once touch dry you gently run your finger over the surface if it squeaks it's ready to go. 

First coat of gel on. This must be covered within 24hrs, either with another gel (you normally do 2 gels) or with your first lays.

Mike

[Overland caravan build]

All the plants are in the mould now plus the first two coats of wax.

The silver is foil tape I've used it to cover the exposed MDF, you can also use sanding sealer/knotting (two coats min) or durabuild/2k high build. As the whole thing is going to be painted I'm not to worried about finish, there'll be plenty of filler later anyway. Next is plasticine radius on all the internal corners followed by four more coats of wax.

Mike

[Defender: fitting a 300tdi head to a 200tdi engine block.]

This is very interesting but much as I prefer the 200tdi (I have two of them) I can't help thinking for all the work involved in this conversion it makes more sense to just fit a 300tdi and r380. Especially if you go for factory position and parts.

Mike

[Winch Solenoid Recommendation please]

These seam to be the cheapest genuine Albright.

https://www.red-winches.com/product/albright-competition-motor-control-solenoid-dc88p/

Mike

[Overland caravan build]

Dry day so did some work on the trailer. Wheel nuts off copper slipped and back on (without breaking the new power bar ) Free'd off the brake adjuster's unfortunately one snapped off, I'll have to drill that out later. Welded up the two chassis cracks then while I had the angle grinder out I may of slipped and cut the front extension off.

Also replaced the dodgy jockey wheel.

Mike

[Overland caravan build]

It's Melamine faced MDF we use it for plug and temporary mould making. It's very flat and waxes up nicely so releases well. Laminating is relatively easy, doing it without wearing it is the hard part.

Mike

[Overland caravan build]

Managed to get in the workshop this afternoon so I've actually made some progress. I've started making the mould for the rear lower extension panel. This needs recesses for number plate and lights.

Number plate recess.

Strip glued up to make the light recesses.

Ironically I need the wheel arches first but I will need to re-use the MDF for each mould so I need to make the biggest moulds first.

Mike

[Budget workshop build]

Due to replacing the lights at work with led, the original lights became available for the correct price.... This gave me a reason to sort the wiring to the lights out and add a few more.

Now I just need to clear some junk out, but at least I can see it now.

Mike

[breaker bar]

After visiting two Halfords and finally persuading someone to serve me (their customer service needs some improvement) I bought the larger ½" power bar linked above. In fact the only reason I'd didn't walk out and go to machine mart is I have a trade card so at £17.59 it takes some beating.

Mike

[Very small gear oil pump for LT230 / overdrive]

Having seem the other thread on this topic what about using one of these.

https://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/facet-cube-pumps-12v-1820-c.asp

They are pressure based rather than flow (you could make a restrictor to increase pressure and reduce flow).

Mike

[200tdi lifting eye]

Don't undo the head bolts to fit it.... Unless you want to do a head gasket again soon.

Mike