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miketomcat

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Posts posted by miketomcat

  1. Just buy a complete spare engine job done.

    Heads and injectors are the only things I'm aware of that are difficult. I had trouble getting a timing chest (disco) about 15 years ago. Oil and vacuum pumps have gotten expensive

    Most things can be got round injector nozzles can be changed, 300tdi head can be used if you change to 300 pistons. I believe the injection pumps are basically the same.

    Mike

  2. You definitely need rope on them, I have buried them so deep the was no sign of them bar the rope poking up out of the ground. When full of mud I struggle to lift it, though dropping it several times usually clears it. I've had to winch them out of the ground.

    Max tracks are another option I never used them though.

    Reading the ground is your best friend along with walking the route.

    Mike

  3. Years ago a friend had a GTM kit car, we were on our way to a show when it just stopped and nothing worked. I looked under the dash and every single wire was red. We put a wire from the battery to the coil and distributor and left the one from alternator to battery but disconnected everything else. Bump started it and drove to the show. The following weekend we rewired it with a modified mini loom.

    Mike

    • Like 2
    • Haha 1
  4. 54 minutes ago, elbekko said:

    Why buy another? It's Facom. Walk into a store that sells Facom and get a new one for free.

     

    I wasn't aware of that. I've just looked it up and there's a facom dealer in my town, unfortunately they're only open when I'm at work but I'll give them a try.

    Mike

    • Like 1
  5. Ok so I may of abused my ½" facom breaker bar yesterday (read put a scaffold tube on it to shift a wheel nut). Stupidly I have a ¾" 3' bar but my adapter is at work. I've had it for probably 10 years and it's stood up well. I'm happy enough to buy another but thought I ask what others use.

    Mike

  6. 3 minutes ago, elbekko said:

    Good idea, but means everything needs to be contained to the box - water tanks, batteries, electric hookup, ... Not a big issue, but definitely needs to be taken into account, and may take away some usable interior space.

    Everything was going to be in or on the box anyway. It'll only be two cables running down the A frame to deal with.

    Mike

    • Like 1
  7. I'm currently thinking caravan style stablizing legs and a pair (may need 4)of modified axle stands. I need legs anyway and caravan legs work well, tuck up out the way and are galv. I only need about 200mm lift so this could be done with blocks under the legs then some axle stands with a horizontal tube that slides into a tube on the box. I can probably get away with the stands only at the front.

    Mike

  8. The front prop is out of phase on I think all permanent 4x4 land rovers Upto td5 disco/tdci defender. I believe it was to reduce vibration. When I built my tomcat the front and rear props were swapped so I reset the front prop to inline for the rear and shifted the rear prop out of phase for the front. I never tried it different but figured land rover did it for a reason.

    Mike

  9. Stephen that is a very generous offer. I'm going to look at off the shelf options first but if nothing works I'll shout.

    Ross they could but as I mentioned earlier I don't think it'll be the best option. I'll get the wife to draw it up now we have all the dimensions. This will allow us to see if the proportions work and finalize the layout.

    Mike

    • Like 1
  10. 2 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:

    Put some twist locks in the corner and some jacking legs then you still have a usable trailer :ph34r:

    I am considering this or something similar the most tricky part would be the extra width required on the front legs to clear the wheels. The box will need legs of some sort anyway to stablize it when in hitched so some that go higher is no biggy.

    Mike

  11. It is a plant trailer so they are fairly flat underneath and the ground clearance is as good as the car trailer was, so upping the tyres will only help. As I've said before realistically a gravel or rutted field is the worst it's likely to see. I'm not renowned for towing slowly so the stability gained due to reduced height is worth the sacrifice. Besides if it's a problem or I don't like it I can change it later relatively easily.

    Mike

  12. Re-positioning could work but impacts the wheel arch length which causes issues around door placement. I would still have to buy some lr wheels and tyres so I may as well just buy trailer wheels and tyre (which have the bonus of being rated for the job). Ground clearance is less of an issue versus how it looks, it'll be very robust compared to a normal caravan so touch down is only a stuck issue rather than distruction.

    Mike

    • Like 1
  13. I was hoping to go lr wheels but the axle spacing is to close for all but the most obscure size 15" tyre. However these will work.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165760981595?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=rm76U2JcRwK&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=rj9sNdGlTqa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

    Just shy of 24" which will bring the overall height down nicely but hopefully won't reduce ground clearance to much. The down side is the current wheels are 12", anyone want to swap for some 13's :ph34r:.

    Mike

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