miketomcat
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Posts posted by miketomcat
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Not sure a higher trailer weight is an advantage. There aren't many caravans over 3.5ton.
Mike
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There was a black ibex (was orange known as Jaffa bex) on eBay a month or so ago. They don't come up for sale very often. The factory in Rotherham has two that I think might be for sale if asked, a MK1 and a Mk7 from memory.
Mike
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Not sure it classifies as really cool but it's interesting. I've got a five seat car and a four bed trailer, that is a three seat car (at most) with a trailer to accommodate about thirty. It would be interesting to see the layout inside but I don't see how it wins over a normal caravan.
Mike
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I'd just put led bulbs in the original units.
Mike
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My wife loves driving her 110 (even with the leaks I haven't fixed yet). However she will not lend it to any of her friends, in her words 'if you've only even driven a normal car you won't be able to drive it'. She normally goes on with the clutch is like power lifting, gears are in there somewhere, brakes....yeah it has some and steering is a rough guess. I will point out there is nothing wrong with hers it's just compared to modern cars it's a big leap. It takes time to settle in to land rover driving, but often once they've got it you can't get them out.
I agree with Stephen it sounds like she was riding the clutch and making it work hard therefore it was all a bit warm under there. Either way I'd have a good look especially for dripping while it's running and for evidence of.
Mike
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I've only ever done one 300 cambelt but when I did, it went on one tooth out no matter how careful I was. I ended up setting the crank about half a tooth out while putting the belt on this then moved as it went on allowing everything to line up correctly once on.
Don't know if that helps but it's my experience with them.
Mike
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As Stephen says most people buy a mismatch of second hand panels, replacement parts from yrm or similar and original parts then repaint.
However a body swap is a massive undertaking so unless your truck is mechanicaly mint, impossible to replace or of sentimental value, you might be better off tidying it up and selling it. Then combined with the money you would have spent (probably £1.5k+) buy one in better shape.
Mike
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The best I can do is I've towed several 1969 round great Britain classic race powerboats and a Riva aquarama among various other pretty boats.
Also, do I get points for these two loads.
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Two car body shell's and the moulds to build one.
And the second load
The remaining moulds for the above cars.
Mike
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Mine aren't balanced at all, mainly due to them being mach5 beadlocks so tyre shops won't touch them. Mine is a daily driver and I do around 12k a year, I do get a little wheel wobble but just put the worst one on the back. It doesn't seem to cause any real issues. The wife's 110 has beads which work very well. Doesn't really answer your question but it might help.
Mike
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@elbekko is the only one I can think of on here that might know, he runs propane on his P38.
Mike
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I can't make up my mind if I like this or not. I definitely don't hate it and it is kinda cool.
Mike
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I've had good results with por15 on the corrosion spots. Wire brush, spot paint then you can move on to primer, filler if required etc. I like 2k paint but you need air fed hood really as it's nasty stuff. The single most important thing I found out after I painted mine is, primer (etch if bare then filler primer) BEFORE filler then more primer. The car industry seams to fill bare metal, this is WRONG it does not stick and will fall off. Unfortunately I believed the millions of you tube videos, then when mine started coming adrift I asked a boat painter at work.
Mike
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Guy shepherd's camel was an event director vehicle from memory. He's had it for a long time and it was getting quite tatty and heavily abused.
Guy doesn't have children, Paul I can't remember but suspect if he does they'll be older. Dan's kids are a boy and girl one around 14 and the other about 9.
Mike
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Personally I don't think an auto is a good match to a 200tdi, however @Les Brock may be able to shed some light on this.
Mike
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As I said it's workable, just requires commitment to live with.
Mike
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Interesting, doesn't really fit our planned use but I do like the door folding down to create worktop.
Mike
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If your putting child seats in, your options are limited. They have to be forward facing (you might get away with rear facing), the next problem is most of the rear seats arrangements are not really suitable for child seats.
When our children were young we had Exmoor fold down rear seat in our 90, but I needed to bungee the child seats in place as they moved around a lot. The seatbelts didn't hold the seat at all. This also ment you couldn't fold one up to get in there to install child. We had to put them in from the front seats, whilst not impossible it isn't the easiest. The seats can be mounted further outboard but then only fold forward.
I believe the puma rear seats are better but require body mods to fit.
There is another problem that appears later on. Our kids got very good at climbing into their seats from the front, us just needing to check their seatbelts. This ment our seats often got wet or muddy. We also discovered that as they near the age/height limit for child seats, their heads get very close to the roof and feet near the bulkhead. We have tall children and had the seats mounted about 300mm forward of the back door to get the dog in too.
The bottom line is you can do it and make it work, we did. But you will end up needing a 110 or discovery etc (we have) as they get older at which point you might as well swap to one now and save a load of grief.
Mike
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8 hours ago, Maverik said:
I know you've solved your wee issue.
I never thought to mention it, I've been running a plastic one since 2020 which seems to have behaved itself, mostly road driving with some regular farm tracks. I was a massive full metal radiator advocate for a long time, but gave up as they're so difficult to get a hold off, expensive new and to re-core, I calculated I could buy 3 plastic to 1 full metal.
That would be fine if I didn't have an engine with a head gasket habit.
Hopefully next year I can sort the other engine and some of my problems will go away.
Mike
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A very good second hand brass radiator came up on ebay, so I've bought that.🤞it's ok when it turns up.
Mike
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If it's leaking from the glow plug or injector there's a high chance the head is cracked, because those go into the combustion chamber. Head gasket could blow up past the head bolt but that would suggest the thread wasn't cleaned out properly and the bolt has hydrauliced before it tightened down on the head (ask me how I know this
). Because the coolant is on the head above the gasket it's unlikely it's leaking from the gasket joint, water doesn't generally run up hill unless forced.
Mike
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Waeco/dometic fridges have a thermostat in the base that has a habit of dieing. Mine did, can remember if it throws a code or just stops working. I think it's just plug in replacement but you do need to release the plastic base and dig through the insulation to find it.
Mike
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22 hours ago, Maverik said:
Funny that I was speaking to the chaps at Alive tuning recently about fully Alu rads and Intercoolers, they seem to have same views on them generally cracking, they now sell an Alu intercooler with cast Alu ends which apparently solves a lot of problems.
At least I'm not going mad
. Both of mine went amongst the fins rather than the ends, but I guess cast ends make it all a bit more stable.
Mike
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20 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Need to pop up and play with the TIG?
I might take you up on that as I've nothing to loose. I am getting the feeling they're not built with everyday use in mind.
Mike
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Perfect so I could either blank them off or perhaps use them for a water oil cooler.
Ok thanks guys I need to have a good look in my engine bay in day light. @Anderzander thank you I'll bare it in mind.
Mike
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Christmas 23, New year 24
in International Forum
Posted
Seasons greetings to one and all. I hope to reacquaint and meet many of you next year.
Mike