HoSS

ok all i've had were the same (defender anyway) IIRC. I'll rephrase the question then - If anyone has any shock bushes on the shelf, please could you measure and include the part number? Then i can see what works for me and order.

Are they different bushes top & bottom? sounds strange... Both then if you can pls

Has anyone got a set of shock bushes on the shelf that they could measure for me? Major / minor diameters + width when stacked? I need some for a non-LR project and they look about right.

I cant comment on POR15, but it sounds like the prep was not done correctly, perhaps oil or other contaminants. Even standard paint can stick if done well. My 45 year old Volvo chassis just had standard paint, albeit with a think layer of military bitumen over 80%, and when stripped back the metal is like it left the factory. Even some of the paint does not want to come off easily in blasting. Galv is great, but so is almost any paint if its applied correctly. And theres the tricky part, we do our best, but without industrial blasting, perfect degreasing etc there can be issues.

Not silly, i have epoxy floor paint in the garage (actually its road white line paint dyed grey. No it didn't fall off the back of a lorry) and that sticks to anything.

Sandblast & degrease is the best. Etch primer (or special for galva), or an expoxy paint like EM121. I've just done a chassis in that and it sticks like the proverbial poop and is super tough https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/em-121-epoxy-rust-proofing-chassis-paint-7 I've not used POR, but i imagine the EM-121 is similar or even the same.

Hey, not all BMW drivers are bad. One of mine is a bike, it even has extra ones.

I once saw a warning in a BMW manual about the LED's used in the dash lights - that they were emitters of radiation and that you should not look directly at them..

You mean for the 3rd axle? Its taken off the second axle

Engine in place, a very nice clearance to the axle this time around. Custom brackets made up for the alternator and PS pump, a much better arrangement than my first attempt, it all makes use of the space quite nicely now.

Well engine mounts made and welded in. Gearbox & transfer box fitted with the custom adaptor. I had a small issue with the adaptor, it was 10mm from closing up, either due to a miscalculation by the chap who made it or that the transfer box input gear was different on his model. Anyway i had the choice of a) adding a packing plate, b) modifying the spud shaft or c) the input gear. I didnt want to do a) as it changes the mount position, b) was not possible as it would need reducing at its weakest point, so I pressed out the tx input gear. Sure enough it was hardened and nothing i have would touch it, had a look around the internet for inspiration and found someone mounting a dremel on a lathe to work on hardened steel. So i strapped a die grinder to my toolstock and proceeded at the grand feedrate of 0.1mm/min to take the splines back.

I'm with Bowie, i never disconnect and never had a problem. The danger will be currents conducted in the ground wires, if the resistance of the wire is less that the resistance of the welding current path through the body. Or voltage spikes induced, but thats less likely in normally well protected car systems. Put the ground next to the weld and have in mind what you are welding close to.

Yeah CERN, I'm curing cancer single-handedly according to the journos https://www.ledauphine.com/sante-et-medecine/2017/11/30/le-cern-prepare-les-therapies-anti-cancers-de-demain, thats me and my hotcell in pics 6-7 of the article, and yes i'd have shaved the scraggly beard off if i knew i was getting my picture taken Super high vac is not my area, but i see a lot of colleagues battling with it. Beyond 10-8 and things get exponentially tricky, the outgassing of the materials for example.

At the risk of taking the thread off track... thats a debatable concept. Its the difference in pressure that pushes it one way or the other, and since the difference is made by the vacuum, the energy being put in to do it is being supplied by the vac, so i would maintain 'pulled'. Funnily enough i also deal with under-pressure enclosures, I run a hotcell (big lead lined box with gloves and remote manipulators), under-pressure in there is only 100 Pa (1 mBar) and thats enough to stand the gloves up.

yeah my workshop vac is an industrial bosch, the gloves are rigid My cheap hoover doesnt even suck dust

Nice, i might knock something like that up. The only issue is that the suction is so large on my vac that it pulls the gloves taught and that makes life more difficult, perhaps a bypass to use only some of the vac pressure...

I just bought myself an Arwin blast cabinet for the small stuff, and the immediate problem is the dust. Theres a little cone filter on the side and i connected up my vaccum cleaner, it helps but it very quickly blocks. If i were to connect the vac without the filter it would take blast media out. I was musing on making a dust separator, i.e. a box on the outside with the vaccum connected to it where the blast media would drop to the bottom and the dust be taken by the vac. I am i reinventing the wheel? Is this done on more professional units? Any designs?

I'm not all the worried about smoke as it will be detuned a little anyway, the full torque available from the 606 and the DM pump will break the drivetrain. I'll give it a go on mech pump and if its too harsh i have the option to retro-fit the e-pump/ECU back on.

Yeah i'm old enough to have the 7.5t too, but there are folk with these that have had them plated down to 3.5t

A quick test fitting of the motor/GB/TX to get an idea of position and clearance. Gantry crane is the best 100 Eur i've ever spent

And it was designed to have a 60kg wheel on the roof of the cab, and 7 soldiers with gear in the back. The design depends on the use, i'm not using it for high lean angle competition or extreme off-road. And that extra weight you perceive will be negated anyway by the removal of the steel body and putting a much lighter composite one.

Yeah i know, but they wont always be full and a least balanced, 1 each side. The issue is that i want to use the chassis space for a 2nd fuel tank and a small waste tank. Although i could always put the water tanks in the cabin low down... and store pillows in those high spaces🙄

^ What he said. Its well known for being very rigid, as Jamie said, more so than a Defender IMHO too.

My 3 leaf rear pack has massive gaps its more like a parabolic, the front more like an LR one. I'm tempted to do plan 1 on the rear and 2 on the front.

5 plus the bumpers not enough? The form of the crossmembers and the thickness of the steel all over is way more than a 110 for example.