Phil,
I used the Rimmer Bro's kit when I changed my exhaust, decent bit of kit
The brass nuts have around twice the depth of a standard nut so you will be less likely to strip them.
Well my Modis arrived earlier in the week & I have to say I'm impressed
I thought it would be overly complicated but it's actually quite user friendly so cheers for the recommendation chaps.
Talks to everything I've tried to date; Ford, Jag, Toyota, & of course LR.
Free fault reading / resetting in Lancashire for LR4x4 members now available
Software only goes up to 2010 though
AFAIK they are different boxes:
I think the TD6 used the ZF 5HP24 whilst the TDV8 & SC used the ZF 6HP26
I'm not saying the gearbox on the SC is bomb proof, that would just be asking for trouble
Nige sells them as part of a washer jet upgrade (2nd item down) on this page:
http://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/diff_offroad.php
Sure you could get them elsewhere if you don't fancy his kit.
So they are moving up the table then
From the little I've read the petrol L322's are more reliable than the Diseasels, the worst for reliability being the early TD6 due to gearbox issues.
Some one pass me some wood to touch
"Amazingly, Nick got to work on his replica despite never having seen a Zonda in real life. He used a die-cast model and pictures from the internet to guide him instead."
I can only assume he was s#it faced on absinthe whilst looking at both.
Speedo signal comes from the transfer box so as long as you keep that you should be able to get that working (you can on a defender any way).
Can't help with the others.
But...
What has happened to the original vehicle I.D.?
Why has the plate been changed?
Could be a few reasons but I'd want to be very sure it isn't someone's pride & joy that has been nicked & had the plates fitted from a scrapper.