pigster

interesting theory with the switch - however wouldn't the light be on the dash if the ecu thinks its engaged? plus I always thought landy responded quicker (jerky like) when in low range, just slow. I have a spare pedal in my garage (as you do), I shall swap that out at some point and see what happens next.

Hi all, doing a quick update. So I have done a complete engine service plus filters, I have put on new turbo hoses or the silicon kind and also cleaned the MAP sensor with break fluid. she now has much more power in her. but is still not quite right yet. top speed and hills are about right(ish) still slower than my 130 mind. it seems on start up, unless you let it catch its breath as such it will be a sluggish response, until something works and boom your off. the lag is noticeable but not massive like before. Could there be a pedal switch issue? Thanks for the previous help as it has assisted a lot so far.

soapy water how simples..

cheers everyone. and no extra smoke on start up or at any time during the lag - seems to run quit clean. righto,I shall do a quick engine service on her (its only a few months away any way) and see what comes of it and clean the map sensor up. I was going to swap the turbo pipes over too but that a couple more quid I can spend after the cheaper options are sorted. How do you pressure test the intercooler pipes? I shall let you know about the progress.

Hi, The vehicle is a 2002 110 csw. and its seems to be gutless. I have been going through this beast slowly and sorting out all its problems slowly but surely, however its stumped me now so help is needed. the problem seems to be turbo lag and a little bit of general power. for example, turn the engine on (all good) but try to pull off and away then not much happens for a second or two (hence turbo thoughts) this can happen in all gears. Only really noticed it because its been driven harder (by me, not the misses) on a longer drive (a couple of hundred miles instead of 10 mile every other day) Also - on long hills or steep hills .. it seems to be just tired, the speed and revs drop off fairly quick so from 60mph it will drop to 45/50,. so quick change down to get the revs back and not a great deal happens.. it has not urgency to get up and running or moving again. top speed is approx 75mph eventually. unless really steep then I may get 80mph. the wife reckons it pretty much stalls when she first drives off in the morning or after work unless many revs are used. engine miles is 103000, on a 15p engine. Things done so far MAF sensor (with know working one out of my other td5) injector loom injector copper seals/washers turbo waste gate does work/ moves freely now - it was seized on the turbo side - the level thingy. driving with MAF sensor unplugged too - no difference really. no errors reported when you plug a computer in etc and live data supports info from the Maf sensor. Please help. Is its new turbo time? MAP sensor? (don't know how that works or side effects) what else can I do Cheers

Evening abu710160 is the part number for the bracket. and the switch is amr2022 do a search on most landy dealer websites and you should find it all. island 4x4 seem pretty good, or have been for me.

couldn't agree more. - I learnt in a volvo 340 hatchback - no power steering or electric anything, you actually had to drive and pay attention. the car was top heavy and sluggish. However - brilliant to drive around in, as it was quick enough to have fun but not go too wrong in the same process. moved on to defenders after 2 years I think and never looked back. Modern cars are false confidence givers and I reckon they create more accidents than solve. But thats just me.

immobiliser.. maybe. as that on my one when the alarm was messing me about due to a flat battery in my key fob didn't let me start the engine -with or without the pump being on.

cheers jon and v8 and fridge - I shall order one of these up pronto.. as the 130 has similar issues..

thank you everyone. very useful and good stuff learned. which is good because the wife has just walked in saying it takes for ever to demist it and only 3 lines work.... ARRRRRRG. a new window maybe needed after all...

Hi all, for a defender td5 110 csw Don't fancy buying a new one at £115 +vat, so is it possible to repair a broken terminal that fixes to the window? its just the rear brake light terminal which has come off completely from the bottom right of the glass when the doors open. Cheers all. and happy new year.

this sounds electrical to me. I would be checking the loom for the engine. sounds to me like its been trapped or caught somewhere and is needing to be fixed. I trapped my loom when doing the clutch and all hell broke loose. take the centre seat or cubby box out and remove the panel beneath for an easier view on the loom. before it goes into the seat box. The flywheel sensor has its own cable that has been shielded - if that's been played/tampered with or damaged with it too caused trouble. I spent many hours fixing it all. have fun hope this helps. ps - just looking at your original post - you may have issues also with your head if diesel and coolant are mixing. hows the oil looking? you could have a crack in the injector ports of the head causing poor starting.

or even the relay in your fuse box, had one of them go wrong too which caused issues. prob not much help but, but just thought I would say.

I had something similar on my truck but it effected the fog light instead. plus the indicators turned on and the rear side lights instead of the fuel pump when the key is turned. Anyway in my case it all came down to an earth - not being connected anymore, which should of been. - - so check your earths for the front lights, is where I would start.

how? or should I get a genuine original master and then hock the rest into it.? really not getting this. it should be easy right. or I use the master actuator from anywhere and use 4 wires instead of 5? is that what you are saying? sorry feel really dum here at the moment.