V8 Freak

I'm sure I've read somewhere that some if not most washing up liquids will help degrade your wiper blades faster... http://www.autowinds...s_and_tips.aspx " Never add washing-up liquid to your windscreen wash. It could damage your windscreen wipers and leave a potentially dangerous film on your windscreen. " http://bladesdirect.co.uk/Wiper-Blade-Maintenance.html Neil

This site has Hybrid_From_Hell as living proof ! Neil

Ah... So no oil what so ever !

If your oil pump is driven from the distributor then you will need a dumpy dizzy or leave the distributor in place. If you oil pump is driven directly off the crank like mine, then you can just effectively seal the hole. Mine uses the original clamp to hold the bung and o-ring in place. As for the joint fix, I'll have to remove the sump and timing cover to effect any repair due to location and space so easiest option is to replace the front cover and save all the risk of failure. So, while I'm that far in I might as well replace the cam etc. and be done with it for a while... Neil

Manual.....C'mon.... Havin a laff.....

Oi Barker... I don't need any "special" dumpy dizzy matey.... Seals the hole, job done ! What you got on offer to tempt me to change eh??

Ok.. Managed to get a look in and snap a picture on the phone... I believe this confirms 3.9 Camshaft type with longer nose. Also to show the type of bung that is used to seal the hole in case anyone is after inspiration ! Will I be able to fit the Duplex type timing gear in here without fouling? Thanks in advance Neil

It came from Pod (Adrian) on here and used to be in his competition truck. I'm going to see if I can get out to the truck tonight and take a peek into the distributor hole.... Maybe a picture to confirm my findings ! Neil

You are correct... I meant Crank.... I also think I ought to be clear.... Is it likely that I will have the old 3.9 type cam with the longer nose or shorter cam from the likes fo the 4.0 P38 type?

A thread for one of the oil pipes feeding my remote oil filter has stripped. To effect a repair I intend replacing the whole timing cover with a spare I have.. I also have a bit of a knock on a cam lobe or two in there somewhere at tickover so I thought while the front is off I might as well replace the cam, followers and timing gear. Here is the problem... I don't know what the cam nose is like and therefore what to order. I don't want to strip the engine down and leave things exposed while I order as it's like to be more than a week between being able to get inside and getting back and fiting the parts. The truck will be in a open environment all that time so high potential for dirt, dust excess moisture etc. I don't know the origin of the engine. It's a 4.6, crossbolted block with serpentine belt fittings. The front cover is from what I believe was an "intermediate" type where the oil pump is fed directly off the cam but there is a hole where the distributor "could" have been installed. I don't know if it ever did have a distributor as it came to me running on an Omex ECU and coil packs etc. The cover is quite a lot deeper than the one I have for a 4.0 cross-bolted Thor (Motronic) engine. I haven't as yet removed the nylon bung in the old distributor hole to see if there is in fact the distributor gear on the cam nose but will aim to do this soon if I can't get a definitive answer from the collective in here. What type of Camshaft should I have in there? Will I be able to fit duplex timing gear on this type of cam & timing cover? Unable to add pictures at work but will aim to do so this evening to help with indentification. Thanks in advance Neil

it can be done. I believe the specific gearboxes that can be used for this are related to as "Long Stick". See post 12 in this thread... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=11684&hl=&fromsearch=1 Regards Neil

Also assuming O2 correction off at tick over revs !!

I have to agree. Mr Wabbit does an excellent job and the conversion totally transforms the truck. I can read the speed at night and no strange noises when it's cold ! Neil

Mine takes several minutes as well Chris.... Much better to sit and organise ready for the journey than be outside scraping and getting cold ! Neil (Ralph.. That screen will be worn out before you wire it in....)

Reading through the responses I took the 110 for a sub zero drive after changing the thermostat also in sub zero temperatures.... Very cold hands but now running at 88 and stable.. I spread the map out KPA / Revs so I could see the cells it was hitting clearly but largely left it unchanged. You are all right... The gearing means that cruise at 60 MPH is at 1800 RPM, but 75 - 80 KPA typically, wind and incline dependant. On slight downhill areas where I'm not on overrun, it's down at 70 - 65 KPA. Only in 45 - 60 KPA area on runs down reasonable hills where I don't want to slow down and keep a touch on the throttle. As this will be a small amount of the typical life on the road, I'm inclined to move the 1600 - 2000 / 45 - 60 KPA cells to about 28 - 30 degrees and lean to about 15.5 AFR and not try for much more. Any more suggestions before I set about building a map tomorrow and trolling off for a run ? I'm keen to see if there is anything we can try in knock terms just to help refine spark maps without having dyno / rolling road sessions and as it will just help to look after the engine if fuel is contaminated or I'm up some mountain polluting the quiet environment with some V8 sounds. So if there is something we can try over the next few years while your Vapour build carrys on Nige.... Neil

Ok.. So we have some different views in the thread. Using Ian's recommendations I played around and built the attached, but readig your post Nige, you advise caution. Ian has suggested numbers that I have read but constructed a "wuss" version aiming slightly lower than his recommendations for a start point. Perhas you could make some suggestions or comment on the attached Nige. As ever, posts and suggestions from others, especially Ian and AncientGeek are welcome. I'll be following up the knock pointers above when I have a few moments to spare. If there is a way then maybe it should be explored and maybe of benefit to other forum users. Regards and thanks in advance. Neil

Hi Ian... Thanks for the feedback. I think I'll simplify the KPA scale to give me two more rows so I can have cells surrounding the cruise area as you suggest. I'll do some doodling later and post up a suggestion before going out and burning holes in my pistons !! Good to see you back. Neil

Wow.. Thanks for the great feedback. I took the truck for a drive with TunerStudio running tuning while I eased it through the new map. Actually performed pretty well and I managed to hit a lot of the map cells. Couple of things I noticed: - I never managed to get above 95KPA - Gentle acceleration in low gears was hitting the "cruise" area a number of times. I've changed the map hoping to interperate your comments above. I've not dropped lower at the low revs as this gives me a good situation for lanes / crawling and quite stable tickover (Although that's probably more down the the idle valve..) Should I remove 100KPA, use 95 as my ceiling and introduce myself a 65KPA row to give a little more adapatability in the cruise area? (Or should I really be able to hit 100 and what might be the cause of failing to be able to do so at the moment?) Awaiting any further suggestions. Neil (I've not run this map yet)

Shall I get one for a looksee? Neil

That'd be scary !!! Are speed sensors fed from wheel/gearbox revolutions or can they be calibrated to the vehicle? Never looked at these before.

Thanks so far... I'll check extra efi.co.UK later to see what's on offer. Hi there Mr Bowie Sir, it's 4.6 and in the reading I've done it all suggests not to go above 30 degrees, although Mr BBC did suggest it would be good to go to potentially 44 degrees in cells specifically for cruise. (Quoted him in an earlier post) Most maps posted so far on LR4X4 are 3.9 / 4.0 derived and as such I've gone a bit soft on it. I've advanced low end for ease of use off road and when crawling around. Seems to work. When down at 12 degrees it tends to bunny hop around at low revs and feels like it's giving the drive train a hard time. (O2 correction off under 1400 RPM) I've trusted my TDC mark up to this point but may invest some time this weekend to verify it is accurate... Neil

Looking to map so that I get a little more economy when pottering / cruising along around 60 KPA.

Any comments on the attached?? Not gone extreme, just want to start the process.... Thanks in advance. Neil

If there is something easy I can do to introduce knock sensors John and employ your help with ECU/Loom I'd be willing to try on my engine! However, it's still going to be dependent on the spark map being robust isn't it ? So that would ideally mean mapping power output on rolling road / direct dyno. (Or am I grabbing the wrong end of the stick again?)

And the answer is fit LS engine and stock ECU ?? Your answer is pretty mucn on the fence Nige.... So I go a tad richer at WOT.... Lean off "a touch" on the identified cruise areas.... Always use 95 RON... Will see if I get any time with the truck this weekend.. I'll post up proposed Spark and AFR maps when I've been "creative" and then run them and buy a new engine ! Neil