greenstream

Would there be anything wrong with makeing a cut with a thin cuttingdisc where the two panels meet and then make a new hot weld ?

Thats the one, Thanks. He goes under digbydog2 on Ebay.

Not long ago there was a link in a thread on here, to somebody on E-bay selling paint for LR´s. I would like to get some, but have lost the link and a search didnt help me. Any of you know of the company Im thinking of ? Cheers Morten

That would be great, but for some reason they dont.

Where do you buy quallity outriggers. Last Ones th at I got, was 4-5 mm. To short ?

Yes its nails being used. Atleast The right and left hand side were The same !

Another ond who has been creative.

Probleme is Now solved. Turned out to be a leaky sedimentor. Thanks for your input.

Guess its to light weight for Dirty Diesel to be involved in ?

Another good thing about lists is that if you are away from your project for a while, then its easier to get cracking when returning to the project. I find that its easier to stay focused and motivated if you work on the car atleast once a week.

Thanks for your reply. The cage is for a pick up and is to be covering the truck cap both at the front and behind the cap. How wide the front hoop will be gives it self as its passing between the footwell and outer front wing. This makes the hoop slightly wider than the truck cap. This width I would like to copy to the rearhoop for a clean design. But when I have been studying photos of other cars the rear hoop seems more narrow and raised the question. Its not for my own car. Its for at challenge truck. We have some rules for building cages here in Denmark, but they are not adapted to 4x4's very well so we tend to uprade to some of thd British rules when in doubt.

Hi alm. I am in The process of designing an external rollcage for a Defender. When looking at the main hoop, you often see them more narrow than then truck cap.I would have thougt that the same width or a bit wider than the truck cap would be the choise ? Whats your choise or experince with this. How about the hight of the main hoop ? Thoughts and experince ? Thanks Morten

Thank you for your replies. Its a manual. I will check the wirering and the fuel lines near the tank when time permits.

I have now tried bleeding the fuelfilter. There keep comeing air out at the small bleed screw. This makes me believe that there might be an leek further upstream towards the fuel tank. Any thoughts. Boydie, why do you think this might be a wirring issue ? I trust your knowledge and what you write, but have a hard time makeing the connection in thi case. Thanks Morten

Have now challenged the fuel return pipes. No difference.

I have just purchased a Disco 1 300 TDI with km.222000. The engine runs sweet. If I start the engine from cold, this being summer and all, it turns nicely,but it takes quite a while for it to start running. Once running everything is great. When trying to start straight after stopping the engine, it starts perfectly. But if I wait a couple of minutes then its turns over a while before starting. Thought it could be the fuel lift pump as it felt weak. Have changed this with nothing changing. Have had a look around the enginebay, nothing looks wrong and thre are no leaks. Have tightened some jubilees etc. But nothing changes. The car got a new cambelt in january, by the former owner. I have tried preheating with now luck either. Any ideas as what to look for ? Cheers Morten

I know of people round here who retrofit Disco 1,2 and3 seats.

Early 110 and Range Rover share the same tank. Try and dobbeltcheck at one of the dealer websites.

It was me starting the mentioned thread. I havent checked it myself, BUT the early 110 and RRC share the same tank. The RRC and the Disco share the same chassis - so why wouldnt toy be able to use the Disco tank. Right now I have a new 110 steel tank on the floor and upon recieving this a discovered that I had a plastic fueltank lying around. Unfortuantely I havent got the time to compare them as of yet. Ill be back.

Nope, just ordinary tube, but polished with a grinder !

Both for wear and strength ?

Bracket for centerwinch done and the fairlead as well. The fairlead is for lifting the robe above the rad. To start with the fairlead was just a bend tube, 45x2,5mm. Thought it was to weak and then welded some 3 mm. band in the bottom of the U and some solid bar beside it. Then spend quite som time with the grinder to shape it. Not sure Im happy yet - what do you think, is it strong enough ?

The downpipes and exhaust is now done. As I have the winchwire going alongside the right chassisrail. Then I have routed the right bank below the engine, where the axle normally lives. Made a heatshield to minimize the heat towards the sump. I do know that the flow isnt of best but it will do for now. Maybe sometime in the future I make like TWR or Bowler.

Think I might have remenbered wrong. Come to think of it I think it was going from metal to plastic but both for the 110" ?

I do belive that this has been done before and that there us a writedown on it. But I can't seem to find it. I have a '96 110" vab with a leaking metal fueltank and would like to go for a plastic fueltank. Any ideas ? Morten