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greenstream

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Everything posted by greenstream

  1. Hi Does any of you know the boltpattern on a nato tow hitch and the hight of which they are placed on the rearcrossmember on a Defender ? Thanks Morten
  2. Depending of the diameter, then used/empty rolls from toiletpaper or the like is of good use ;-)
  3. Søren - if you are going for the SD1 versions, then I have a used set thats not to be used as I´m modifying a set from a P38 for the RRDDLW. Morten
  4. Hi O' : I believe that it's in the first program, which have been erased on youtube :-( Nigel : Good one with the soldering stuff ! David : Have seen your thread and love it ! What have you used for fixing the ali.patch ? Thank you. Morten
  5. Hi When making a 100" Defender and one wants to have the same behind the rear axle as on a 90" What kind of solutions do you use for closing the fuelfillerarea ? Cheers Morten
  6. Hi Mate Any photos fo what you are doing would make it easier to sugest any sollutions. If you hav got the Disco 200 TDI manifold, then I know of peeps here in Denmark who uses some tubebends to make an S-shaped connection between the manifold and tuurbo. This is mounted so that the turbo i s moved forward in the enginebay - hence making room for the exhaust. I havent. got any pictures of this. Quite a few peeps are running stock LHD series here in Denmark with Disco 200 TDI, so its doable. If you got a little patience, then I gladly ask around for solutions and photos. Cheers Morten
  7. Mine's a direct translation of the name of the town that I live in "Grønbæk : Grøn = green and bæk=stream = Greenstream Oh - there isnt a stream or the like here by that name ? Not mutch fun there. Have a nice one. Morten
  8. Hey Fridge Please do explain ! I was going to ditch the thermostat on the 4.6 but you make me think again. Morten
  9. Hi My personal choise would be to drill a small hole in the line of the circle and in the area where the hinge is going to be, the hinge will later on cover this hole. The drill have to be large enough for the Jigsawblade to enter. Then use a Jigsaw to cut the circle. I think this is the easiest way with basic tools. Have been working on gac bottles before to make an oilheater (failed ;-) !) I killed a proff. powerdrill using a 85 mm. holesaw ! Cheers Morten
  10. Hi All ! Having recently bought some bright new goodies from Mr. HFH, I have decided to sell to sell the "waterproof" ignitionkit from the UK army. I have a possible buyer, who asks about spares and wether it will interfer with the electronics for the EFI ? Can you change the distributer and coil ? Thanks for your answers. Cheers Morten
  11. Yup - thats more like my "lingo" Thanks Nige.
  12. Thanks for your reply, could you please look at my comments. Could I use the 3.9 injectors as well ? I take it from your reply, that by using the 3.9 parts then I will not detune the engine ? Thanks Morten
  13. Hi I've recently biought a 4.6 without the inlet and plenum. I do have the parts from a 3.9 - are these interchangeable without detuning the 4.6 ? Or should I simply opt for a 4.6 inlet and plenum ? Thanks Morten
  14. Weird ! After I have been replying to this thread, I have recieved 3 phonecalls and 1 mail from the UK regarding surveys in building bla bla bla ? Thought we were pretty "safe" here ? Happened to anybody else or is this just a coincidense ? Morten - from Denmark
  15. Breatheable membrane between insulation is OK - AS long as you have a moisture proof barrier on the inside of the insulation. You want to control the moisture from inside of the building e.i. Breathing, farting, sleeping, boiling water and what have you got. This moisture is to be keept away from the insulation in ordre for it not to condensate and stay in the insulation and framework = rot ! The moisture trapped inside the building si to be let out by controlled venting e.i. leggy vents or open doors and windows. If this is your house (which its not in this case) then the best way to vent via windows and doors are 4 times a day as open as posible and for 5 min. periods at the time. Fresh data from the Energi dept. The barrier on the outside of the insulation is to stop the wind to blow through the insulation and be cooling this way. This barrier will also do as a water barrier if any should get throu the outer surface. When here in Denmark this is the ordre of constructing for wooden buildings. From inside and out. Plaster (or other) - dampproof barrier, glued taped and whta have you - insulation (this is placed in the wooden structure) - windbarrier - 25 mm. airgab - outer surface. The dampproof barrier can be placed up to a third in to the insulation, from the INSIDE, this will alove for cables to be mounted/hidden without breaking the barrier ! Well not very LR-related, but ought to clear a few things. Morten
  16. Hi Fridge Moisture barrier is placed on the inside of the insulation. Wind barrier is placed on theoutside of the insulation. When placeing the moisture barrier on the inside of the insulation, then you keep the moist in the room to be dried by heat or let out by controlled ventilation. If the moisture barrier is placed on the outside of the insulation, then the moist will be taken shape as water somewhere in the insultaion and framewotk of the shed and it will be out of your control and the framework will start to rot ! Hope this makes sence ? Cheers Morten, builder by trade.
  17. Thanks guys Yeah Soren is right about the ones. Regarding exhaust then I will have to make my own for this car anyway. And is saving pennies for at mail to Nige, so trim of ECU will be needed to. They been on a 4.6 for 2 years and over here I will pay 3 times as much for a 4.6 than I have to pay for these heads. Hmm thinky thinky ... Morten
  18. As per title. Will they do any good for my challenge truck with a 3.9 and are there any other things that would need upgrading besides the ecu ? Cheers Morten
  19. Thank very mucho. The thread size for the studs, wasnt for new studs, but because I've left the remains of one stud in the block :-(. But as I'm at it, then it sounds like a brill. idea to change the lot for a better version. Morten
  20. Hi 1. Whats the thread size in the block for manifold studs ? 2. Im going to use a swirlpot in the fuelline and then I will need a fuel pump. Which should I choose for the above engine in a challenge truck thats destined for MS in the future. And what kind of psi ? Thats all at the moment ;-) Morten
  21. The Rakeway release bearing is currently 54 £ including the vat. Got a quote from them last week. Morten
  22. Hi I have no personal experiance with this. But around here (Denmark) there are several Citroën 2CV and Renault 4's on the roads thats been galvanized - entire shells and doors etc. and they havent warped. These cars are as you know of much thinner "steel", If they can make it work, then I cant see why it couldnt be done on a RRC - probaply a matter of applying the right method ? How about calling around to some of the people close to you who work with galvanizing for a living an d hear what they are saying ? Good luck. Morten
  23. The car in the photo is 2-wheeldrive. Made with a special "bolt-on" arrangement at the front, no beam but indy. All in all a rahter nice car, with some great details. Morten
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