Tetsu0san

Hey ho, me again. So I have a few other queries if you'd be so kind. I have replaced the engine with one out of my old Discovery auto (converted to a manual pump, swapped out all the other Discovery bits) and I've got it running! What a result! But I'd like to know the routes of all the pipework around the back and sides of the engine as all mine was melted. Could one of you lovely people take a few pictures of the route of the breather pipe that goes around the back of the engine from the cyclone filter to the air intake? Also the EGR valve loom, and any of the loom that goes around the back of the engine? Anyway, for your enjoyment... Two engines side by side. One is an EDC auto from a Discovery, the other is the Defender engine. Discovery engine with everything swapped over from the Defender engine, including a brand new clutch Engine bay cleaned off and ready to take the new engine New engine in!!!

I'd certainly not even entertain the idea of taking on a project like this if I didn't have the means to do the work myself. Parts are cheap enough, but labour is something else. And I'm not even sure I'd trust anyone to do the work for me. I'm not a newbie in doing this kind of work, and labour was never going to be part of the cost equation. I was a little flippant with my reply to you for which I apologise, but that was only because I was asking a fairly simple question about a simple thing and you just came in questioning whether it was actually worth it or not. If there was going to be a third party involved then I'd probably agree that it wasn't worth doing, but I'll be doing all the work myself, I've already got the majority of the parts, so it's only going to be my time that's used. And I wouldn't own numerous Land Rover's if I didn't expect to do work on them. If I had to ship them out for work to be done I'd be broke! But as a closer, I value everyone's input and I always appreciate someone taking the time to reply to a question, and I try to offer my experience when I can. It's what makes this forum so great.

These are fine, no pitting, unlike the ones on my 110. But even with them being a bit scabby they haven't torn up the seals yet and don't leak. I fitted some of the Teflon ones to an old 90 I used to have, and the coating started rubbing off almost straight away. I didn't have the 90 long so it wasn't really a problem, but I suspect they'd have had to have been replaced again fairly soon. They were Sh*tpart swivels mind you...

Perfect! I need not have spent a couple of hours pulling them off my old Discovery then!

Thanks for the reply. It's the swivel bearing that's worn, and I'm sure the bearings are fine as the wheel rotates fine and doesn't make a noise. I'll just leave the anti-roll bar off and that'll be that. Precisely. I've got a fair few bit's an pieces and it's not an expensive thing to repair. I will be replacing the engine because this one is a bit knackered but that's not too hard as I have a spare engine. The Defender itself didn't cost a huge amount and when it's finished and MOT'd it'll be worth a whole lot more than I paid. And (hopefully) it'll make an ideal first car for my Daughter. Thanks, that's what I hoped it'd be.

Thank you for your concern, but yes, it's worth it. I've already got the majority of the bits to fix it up and currently it's running, driving, and stopping. I just needed some knowledge on the questions above, that's all.

Hi all I've recently acquired a P reg Defender 90 which has been used on a farm for a few years. It's rough. I've a list as long as my arm for bits to fix up and replace and it's getting longer and longer! Anyway, I've just found out that the reason why the N/S wheel was always sloping inwards was because the swivel bearings have pretty much given up and need replacing. Are they bearings top and bottom or are they railko like on my 110? I have the front axle off of my R reg Discovery and the swivels were really good, but it had ABS. Are swivels, bearings, mountings etc different between ABS and non-ABS? And while underneath I found that it doesn't have any anti-roll bars. Is this correct? My '84 110 doesn't have them which is understandable, but I'd have thought a late 90's 90 would have. I don't mind if it didn't have them from new but I don't want to turn up to an MOT and they turn me away because they're not fitted. The front chassis mounts exist (albeit bent) but the rear mounts are missing anyway as the chassis has been welded up. Pictures for your amusement: Cheers all.

Is that all? I'd pat myself on the back for having such a delightful Landy. I'd also check to see if any of it still has oil in it.

More updates! The underside around the engine was very oily indeed so I covered it in degreaser and jet washed it all off. Still a few bits left here and there and there is still a fairly pronounced leak but at least I can see the engine now. It also looks like I'll be welding up the front arches, cills, and footwells too now though... Did a transmission oil change and this has improved the gear changes quite a bit, which is nice. The fluid that came out didn't particularly smell burnt but it was pretty black. I did reconnect a connector at the front that had come off (or been taken off) and now I get a transmission warning light come on. This goes off when at 50mph+ and everything changes as it should and it goes OK so I'm not overly concerned. Going to clean out the fins on the oil cooler and maybe clean out the cooler at some point. I still hate underseal....

Funnily enough so am I. Must be something in the water....

Thanks to all the replies, and I have an update (of sorts). I've been driving it now as a daily driver and it all seemed OK generally, however yesterday when driving home the exhaust decided to split in two so last night was spent welding up the down pipe (a de-cat from a Defender by the look of it as it doesn't have the flexi bit) and also fixing the rear exhaust hanger as that had rotted out. That would explain why the rear pipe was moving around a lot! Had some information given to me regarding one of my fobs not working so I'm going to hopefully get to the bottom of that. While I was under there doing the exhaust I had a quick look around and I can see I've got my work cut out if I really want to keep it. I can see holes in the boot floor (not really a problem as I had to do this on my first Discovery), the sills are a bit ropey, and the N/S/R outrigger has rotten across the top. So all these will need welding. And there is a proper nasty oil leak somewhere that has been spewing oil all over the engine, axle, and chassis for a long time now. I've noticed that the vacuum pump cover has been bolted on so I suspect that is most likely where most of the oil is coming from so I'm going to replace that or at the very least try to seal it up again. I know they're renown for splitting and spraying oil all over the place so that's my first port of call. Also, bloody underseal. What a stupid thing to put on a chassis. All it seems to do is dry out, crack, lift up, and create a mud/water trap all over the place. I'm sure it looks lovely for a while but it should be banned. No pictures of the work done last night but I will try to upload some pictures as I go.

I've been given a bit of information on another forum that I'm going to try later but if that doesn't work I might just do that. Is there any particular alcoholic beverage you prefer?

Hi all In relation to my post here I'd like to program an extra fob for my Discovery. It's an R reg Disco with the two button fob and I believe I need Testbook (?) or similar to be able to code my ECU to take the fob. Is there anyone who could help me (beer/wine tokens available) or could point me to a what I'd need to get hold of and some guidance/instructions on how to do it? Many thanks!

Damn. I need to find a fellow Landy owner with the skills and equipment then!

Ah, that's a bit cack then, as I have the 2 button jobbie.

Hi all I've just bought a Discovery 1 ES 300Tdi and it came with 2 fobs. One works but the other doesn't and it appears the ECU no longer (if it even did) knows about this other key fob. I've searched around and I found what appears to be a guide for reprogramming a fob, but I wanted to check here to see if this is right. The instructions are: This is the procedure and it'll need two of you to carry it out: Start with the ignition off, doors unlocked and bonnet alarm switch depressed. NOTE: Steps 2- 8 must be carried out in 8 seconds Switch ignition on Switch ignition off Lock doors - push the button down on the drivers door. Unlock doors - pull button up on drivers door. Release bonnet switch. Switch ignition ON Switch ignition OFF If the alarm is correctly accessed, the horn will sound and the LED on the dash will light. It's now possible to program two handsets of correct frequency to vehicle's alarm ECU. This must be carried out within two minutes otherwise you'll have to start again. Press and hold down the button on first handset until dash LED flashes. Repeat #10 for the second fob. The LED on the dash will extinguish if both handsets have been initialised correctly. Does this look right? If it is, what a complete faff!! Cheers

When I had issues with my 300Tdi years ago I removed the sump and it had a gasket. Tried to get a replacement gasket and couldn't find one anywhere so I just RTV'd it. Same a few years later on my 200Tdi and again I ended up RTV'ing it. As Snagger said it's probably the gasket compressing and giving the appearance of slack. Just RTV it and if you get a little on the threads as you put the bolts in that will possibly help too.

So, after many years without a Discovery I purchased an ES auto the other day. I've got an early 110 that I really like as I've done a lot of work on it over the years (fitted a 200Tdi engine and a Defender R380 gearbox), but there was always something I liked about the Discovery. And now I have both! Anyway, as I said it's an ES so has a lot of bells and whistles, and most of these make no noise at the moment. Aircon - Belt missing, and I suspect will need re-gassing Cruise control - Was told it works off vacuum pipes and some have visibly perished. I'll replace them and see what happens Electric seats - The base tilt on the drivers side doesn't work although it clicks when you try to adjust it Heated windscreen - Got a big crack in the corner so I suspect the element is knackered Auto dimming rear view mirror - The liquid crystals have leaked. Needs a new one I think N/S/R window - Very slow towards the bottom of the travel Bonnet pull - Cable has been relocated to somewhere else I've found a few other disconnected connectors here and there, and I'm sure there is more that doesn't work but I've not really looked over it. There is what appears to be a performance chip fitted to a 9pin serial type connector under the dashboard, but I have no idea if it works or not. I can't remember the name on the chip but I'll take a picture later. Any information or advice on this would be greatly received.

Yes, as said it's a valve seating tool. Never seen one like that but it looks pretty handy. Stops getting blisters on the palms of you hands (or is that another story altogether?)

Does the engine turn over slower than when it's cold as opposed to when it's a warm day? Last year when I was having these issues when the weather is cold I decided to finally wire up my glow plugs and it made no difference at all. My engine had never needed them in the Discovery I pulled it out of and they weren't even wired up in the 110 but I thought as the engine was getting older that it might need them. Again, battery was the culprit and I still don't need the plugs, even in that very cold snap we had earlier this week.

If you can see a crack then it's probably goosed but if the head gasket went then it could be that the head isn't flat and just needs skimming. However if you did get your head skimmed and pressure tested and it failed, that will cost money that you could've put towards a good condition second hand head or even a new head.

There are various calculators on the web that will give you the metric size but I think you're roughly right. However, the height of these always looked a little small to me. I have some of these in the shed that I took off an old 110 I used to own and then I put them on my old 90. But they always looked a little too small to me, especially on the 110.

I had a similar problem very recently on my 200tdi converted 110 and I was convinced it wasn't the battery. So I did all the things you've done already, as well as replacing the starter motor but the 'worse when cold' thing was still a niggle in the back of my mind. I even swapped it out for a known good battery I had in the shed but to no avail. Cutting a long story short, it was the battery. Seems the known good one in the shed wasn't good either.

And.... She passed! No advisories either! If anyone is interested, this is a link to all the work I've done on the old girl since I've owned her. Well, almost all the work...

Check the compression in each of the cylinders first. I'd asy it's unlikely to be the inection pump or the lift pump.