Tetsu0san

It sounds to me that you really need to work out if you actually have a problem with high idle or if you're just chasing a problem that doesn't exist. However, it's not uncommon for the internals of an injection pump to stick due to lack of use, but the only time that's happened to me was on a 90 I bought years ago that had been offroaded and dunked in water, driven home and parked up for 2 years. There was rust inside the injection pump as I could see rust on the boost pin and on half of the diaphragm disc, and although it idle'd fine it made the engine sluggish to rev some of the time but then clear and run fine other times. As a complete opposite to this I currently own a 200Tdi Discovery that hadn't been started in over 10 years and is absolutely fine.

In my experience a noisy injection pump was caused by fuel starvation and the pump having to work harder than normal to get the fuel it needs. One I had on my first 300Tdi I had a failed lift pump and the injection pump sounded like a chicken clucking for some reason! Recently I had a similar issue and although I changed the lift pump that too was faulty. I removed the top of it (it was a Delphi pump) and I could see one of the valves just floating around in the top so I replaced that and all was good again. You've changed the lift pump? What make did you replace it with, and do you know that the new one is actually working? Have you blown the fuel lines back to the tank to make sure they're not blocked? Maybe take the pickup out of the tank too and make sure you've not got loads of crud in the tank. You may well have a sedimenter under the rear of the chassis too, so perhaps check to make sure that's not full up with rubbish. Also, are you sure it's the injeciton pump and not something else? The vacuum pumps can tick and rattle and this can sound like it's coming from the injection pump area.

The chart they use in a Haynes is pretty much on every wiring page as far as I can see. I just didn't think they'd use the same legend as the official Land Rover document. Again my fault for not looking, but being in the line of work I am in you never take anything like this as a given.

I get all that, but without a legend to tie the letters to a colour the diagram is not very helpful. Fortunately the colour chart you've just kindly provided is what I was missing. If the colour codes are the same as the Haynes then that's my fault for not putting two and two together, but I'd rather use the chart for the actual diagram rather than making a guess based on what it could be from another diagram.

There are letters, but what colours do the letters represent? What is N? What is K?

Managed to pick up a hard copy from eBay. On a related note, it passed its MOT!

Sorry about the delay in replying. I expect you're already sorted out by now. As far as I know you can change the swivels for the bearing type and it'll make no odds to the internals of the housing so you should be OK to do that. My questions above were based on wanting to keep my 110 as original as possible in there, although I don't really know why as it's got a Defender R380, a Discovery 200Tdi engine, a Discovery 300Tdi transfer box, and a hacked about TD5 exhaust. Not exactly original...

Hi all I'm just getting my 2 door 200Tdi Discovery ready for MOT tomorrow and I'm having a few issues with the immobiliser etc. I've replaced the fusable links in the engine bay with a 300Tdi fuse box, and generally most things are working as they should, but I still have some issues with the immobiliser and the alarm going off whenever it wants, as well as the central locking messing around and the windows not working occasionally etc. I'm in the process of bypassing the immobiliser so it'll start every time and I got a diagram from a forum of the immobiliser/alarm wiring from the workshop manual, but there is no colour code so that makes it a bit of a pain. I know most of my problems are going to be either a corroded feed, corroded earth, or a combination of the two which is why I put in the fuse box in the engine bay. I'm keen to get it all working keeping at original as I can and don't really want to botch it by runnings new wires all over the place so having a proper workshop manual would be really handy. So after all that rambling does anyone know of a place I can download the entire workshop manual that includes the 200Tdi's? I've got various Haynes manuals and I've got Rave, but Rave doesn't cover the 200Tdi and Haynes doesn't really cover anything important. I've attached the alarm diagram which I belive is from the workshop manual, so you know what I'm on about. Cheers

The place I've gone with doesn't mind and I insured my van with them. I do have an old Hilux which isn't on the list of vehicles I can insure, but I suspect that's an easy fix.

Thanks for all the replies. I've found a company and gone with them. Hopefully this'll be the new start I've been needing!

So, I bought one. First one I saw too. I know I know, never buy the first one you see but this was really nice, well maintained, and the bloke was only selling it because it belonged to his wife who'd died in April and he had no use for it. it was her pride and joy and she'd owned it for 8 years, which sounded like the most genuine reason for a sale so I figured it was worth the risk. It's a diesel, slow, but everything works (except aircon). No water in the carpets, good tyres, drives nicely, and in very clean and tidy condition. All I need to do now is to get another fob working on it as one out of the two that came with it doesn't work. I know it's easy to program a replacement remote central locking fob so I'll see what I can do about that as time goes on.

Don't do it.

May I ask who the company is that you're using for this?

I know I don't have enough! I can still see the drive... They're used for commuting to work and just personal use. I'm not looking for anything speccial, just the easiest and cheapest way to feed my hunger for buying a bargain, running it for a while, then either selling it on or keeping it. As a back story I work in IT and I absolutely hate it. I get way more enjoyment from getting my hands oily and fixing up an old car. Ultimetly I'd really like to jack in my IT work and do something I actually want to do. This could be the first step...

Mornig all I'm thinking of getting a multicar or a part time traders insurance policy because I have four vehicles on the road at the moment, with another three or four waiting in the wings. I have bought and sold a few cars in the past so a part time traders policy seems like it might be the better way to go, but I'm not sure. Does anyone have experience of a good multicar or a part time traders insurance company? Cheers

Thanks people. I wanted a diesel because of the fuel economy. I know they're not exactly economic but a diesel would be somewhat better, however the other half is not too bothered and as it's her who is going to be using it then I'm not overly bothered now. An LPG converted one might be nice though... I'll have to go and have a look at some and see what they're actually like.

Hi all My partner is looking for a new car and after trying out two (hopefully just bad examples, but my word they were dreadful) Shogun Sport's she's decided that she likes the idea of a P38. Me being me I don't want a petrol (yeah yeah, I know....) so I'm looking out for a nice dirty diesel. I believe they're all the M52 (I think that's the engine, same as in the 5 series BMW's?) which I know reasonably well as I had a 525tds a few years ago, so that's not too bad. I know Defender's and Discovery's pretty well but I've no experience of the P38's. What are they like? What are their problems? Do they suffer with rust? Any other pointers? And does anyone know of a good one in Oxfordshire (or surrounding counties)? Cheers

Check the engine? In what way? If it's a 200Tdi or a 300Tdi? They're both 200Tdi's and they're both standard. They both have the same module and they both have one button fobs.

I don't think you're right (but i could be wrong). There is a box under the dash which seems to control all of the above, AMR2106. This is what I think is causing all my problems.

Hi all I've got two 200Tdi Discovery's which both share a problem, with one being a lot worse than the other. The central locking is sporadic, sometimes very slow to react (if at all), the electric windows occasionally work and then don't (which is usually tied in with the cntral locking not working), and sometimes the immobiliser just doesn't want to play ball. The alarm (or at least the flashing indicators) will go off all by itself too. I think I'm right in saying that there is one module that controls all these functions. I've bypassed it on one of the Discovery's to get it started and allow me to move it around, but it's not where I want to leave it. If I am correct and it's the one module, what is usually wrong with it? Is it dry joints, fried components, lose wires, or something else? Any information would be greatly recieved. Cheers

Due to the timing chest being different between Discovery and Defender the timing belt and all that is also different. Not sure what is still available regarding all the gear but I bet you can find pulleys and belts if you look hard enough. I watch a channel on YouTube of a bloke in Canada (here) who does a lot of Land Rover stuff. A while ago he was pulling apart injection pumps and mentioned that the pump timing is different between a Defender and a Discovery pump, although either can (and have) been run in either and work fine. I bet there are people who have seen differences between the two but personally I haven't. I don't think it's really a concern to be honest.

If you've got an original 200Tdi in your 110 then the timing case is different so all the geometry of the alternator, PAS pump etc are different. I believe that the FIP is also slightly differently timed internally but swapping one for another shouldn't cause any problems. However, if your 110 already has a Discovery 200Tdi in it from a previous conversion then the two engines you have should be the same (possibly).

I thought it was only the wired injector that was different, with the other three being the same as a manual pump. Isn't the pipework slightly different too as the wired injector is longer?

There's something not right there. You've not changed any of the rockers or the pushrods at all? What about the little caps that go on top of the valve stems, are they still there?

I'd say it's not the best way to have it as all the debris that the intake will pick up wiill just sit on the top of the filter and clog it up quicker.