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SteveG

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Posts posted by SteveG

  1. The body frame was originally painted body colour, including the rear pillar, before they added the vinyl around 73/74. Then I think in 1981, with the introduction of the 4 door, they painted the whole of the body frames in black. I suspect this was to blend in the extra pillar of the 4 door, and make it less obvious. 

    Then around 1990/91 they started to paint the body frame in body colour, but the exposed visible parts like the top of the pillars, windscreen surround  etc. were still painted in satin black. I’m not sure if they did this on the post 90/91 2 doors too, i’ll Have to look at some pics etc. to check.

    cheers

    Steve

  2. Was your problem of it only lasting 3 months, durability? If so, you probably need to get a 2K paint, as these appear to be the hardest wearing and most resistant to chipping/off road damage. 2K epoxy’s like Upol’s Raptor appear to have really good bonding and cope with over painting existing paint. 

    The only issue with 2K paints is that most contain isocyanates, apparently nasty stuff that’s not good to breathe in or absorb through your skin or eyes. ;)

     

     

  3. 1 hour ago, ianmayco68 said:

    This is interesting , what progress have you made Arjan ? Have you found a suitable module ? The controllino/mega looks promising .

    cheers Ian

    No good for me with only 30A max, and I suspect limiting for most people in automotive use. 

    I think I may get a motogadget to see what it can do. I have to relocate a bunch of relays in the LHD to RHD conversion in the two door, and may opt for completely re-wiring instead of putting in the donor loom. Using a motor gadget would free up ten or so relays and add some interesting security features. 

    cheers, Steve 

  4. 4 hours ago, mickeyw said:

    Steve, I did buy one of those DIY kits from Gateros Plating. I followed the instructions carefully, but I think I need to spend a bit more time practicing to get more consistent results. I plated all the external bracketry of a Hotwire V8 throttle assembly. The shine is lacking on some, but rust proofness has been a success judging by the these parts, and the test items I left outside. Being able to plates just one or two brackets or an odd spec screw as required is certainly a bonus.

    Thanks, I may give it a go then. :)

    cheers, Steve 

  5. 30 minutes ago, Scotts90 said:

     

    JLR/Tata are a company...they need to make money like every other company out there and love or loathe the line up they seem to be pretty effective at coining it in.

    New defender will sell. No doubts at all. Will it upset the purists? What doesn't...:rolleyes:

    I don’t think anybody is denying that to exist JLR need to sell cars.

    However, they rolled out a lame set excuses for killing off the Defender, breaking a line of production going back to 1948, then they try and use their ‘Heritage’ by misusing names like Velar to release yet another niche tweak extending the Range Rover brand.

    Then they’re shown up by companies like Mercedes who can still manage to keep and ‘aging 4x4’ in the market, and launch a pick-up too. Jeep still manage to sell a live axle vehicle, ship a version from the showroom with locking diffs and 33” mud terrains, and still meet all the modern emissions, safety laws etc.

    So even when profits are good, they couldn’t look after their real Heritage and continue Defender production either with a replacement, or until one came along. 

    This is why people are Mildly miffed off, and when they hear it’s going to be based on the premium monocoque platform, it doesn’t exactly fill them with hope that they will continue with the ethos of the Series/Defender bloodline.

    A strengthened, different looking RR/Disco with plastic bits stuck on, ala an Audi all-road, doesn’t make a Defender successor. 

  6. On 12/11/2017 at 10:46 PM, L19MUD said:

    I am in the US this week and I swear I saw a Disco with a central number plate that looked to be standard. It has the sloping bit seen on scotts car on both sides, but obviously shorter on both sides (if that makes sense) to fit the plate in centrally...

     

    I am beginning to wonder if I am making this up though as I can't find a picture of one like that

     

    Time to go and stand by the road and wait for a Disco! :D

     

     

    It was probably a Ford Explorer.

     

    • Like 1
  7. https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/land-rover-defender-be-reinvented-2019

    Confirmation that the next Defender will be on strengthened RR/Disco monocoque and with the “Premium Durability” being used by McGovern you can guarantee it’s going to be a significant increase in price.

    It will come in 2 wheelbases, shown in 2018, on sale in 2019.

    its a shame that Jeep and Mercedes are doing a better job of building and delivering a Defender like vehicle than LR, and they didn’t break production for 3+ years too.

    Personally, I think that a Defender that’s only different in looks and price from an RR/D5 is a cop out.

    Autocar imagined images...

    large.79291E11-481E-46E2-8054-F3D678400531.jpeg.1cbdb55b0bae0725b72075e2ce7e9b6e.jpeg

    large.8F264B7F-604C-420E-8492-7D66933CF8C3.jpeg.de82725e361cdcfc56b3fab852143e03.jpeg

  8. With a family business, having profits, but then no roll over cash flow, usually means that they are effectively taking most of their salaries  as annual dividends to avoid higher rates of personal income tax and NIC. So depending on how many employees are being paid most of their salary as dividends, the company may not appear as profitable as it does.

  9. Both Mantec and KAM also supplied MOD, so another regular source of income would have dried up a few years back.

    Like some of the previous posts, I liked the Mantec parts I had bought before (wheel carrier, side sills and TD5 tank guard), but to be fair they also were not keeping up with the times, so I suppose it was inevitable. 

     

     

    • Like 1
  10. That’s a good way to start the rebuild. 

    Yes, powder coat is a right pain in the derrière. I was just blasting the bonnet release tube on the RR this afternoon, and as you say it takes ages. Fortunately, there wasn’t too much of it.

    Have fun with the rebuild. :)

    Cheers, Steve 

  11. Hello all

    Just tapping in to your collective expertise please. As part of RRC build, I wanted to see what you recommended for the following.

    1. Fuel pipes? - material and connector type recommendations please :)
    2. Engine & Gearbox oil cooler hoses?  - material and connector type recommendations please :)
    3. For a V8 install what coolant hose material best? Also recommendations for thermostat too please. The one that came with the p38 4.6 will need replacing, so I wondered if there is a better type than replacing it with the LR one?

    Lastly, any recommendations for suppliers too is always welcome.

    Thanks in advance.

    Steve

  12. Personally, and if you really want a galv chassis, I’d save a few K and get your existing chassis dipped and galvanised, instead of buying new. Then you can spend the money on an auto conversion, so your wife is happy to drive it. 

    Have fun with the rebuild. 

    Cheers, Steve 

  13. On the principle of keeping it simple and unique in google etc.

    uberdiff

    Clear, to the point, and you can’t get a better diff than uberdiff  

     

    for versions, you can simply use a hyphen...

    uberdiff-Ash

    uberdiff-RD56 or uberdiff-ARB

    uberdiff-KAM

     

    and finally, if you plan to do a version for the ATB...

    uberslipdiff       ;) 

     

    Cheers

    Steve

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