SteveG
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Posts posted by SteveG
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I'll think I'll stick to using dinitrol 3125 covered by 4941. Re-coating every 4-5 years, with the occasional spot touch up in between, sounds infinitely better than every six months.
cheers, Steve
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So how does the duck oil stand up to pressure washing after you've been off road??
Cheers, Steve
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A Range Rover came 4th overall and the first car/truck to finish in the first Paris Dakar in 1979. It was privately entered, standard 2 door with just an extra fuel tank, extra pair of shocks on the front, three seats and a winch.
In 1981 a factory supported Range Rover prepped by Halt-up in rainbow VSD colours won the event overall.
cheers, Steve
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After British Leyland France early success with TWR prepped cars they then used Halt-up! Team to prepare the rest of the Paris Dakar RR's...
https://www.facebook.com/pg/Haltup-team-107408332658648/photos/?ref=page_internal
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6 hours ago, Mo Murphy said:
Ls3 ? ?
Mo
I'm struggling with budget as it is Mo, so don't go blowing it!
6 hours ago, Bowie69 said:My personal choice would be the 4.6, all ancillaries (no messing with front covers/crank spacers, better oil pump and serp belt) backed up with the RRC auto box, which means no messing with compushift.
Run the engine with Megasquirt, and the gearbox will take care of itself being a non electronic box.
Simple, diagnosable system, with most advanced version of the RV8 (if you can call it that).
Thanks for the recommendation Bowie.
For air con, is it better to use range rover classic compressor rather than p38, so that standard pipes can be used for plumbing?
Also, what's the benefit of Megasquirt over re-configuring the GEMS ECU?
4 hours ago, honitonhobbit said:I'd agree with Bowie. Relatively simples, relatively reliable, quite fun
Just what I'm looking for.
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Hi Dave
Just normal use, vast majority on road, and very small amount of light off road. Rest of RR will be mostly 'standard' with no major mods.
Cheers, Steve
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So, I have a GEMS 4.6 & auto including all the ancillaries. I also have a 1991 3.9 V8, again with all ancillaries along with auto and BW tbox. In a few months time, I'll have a couple of spaces to fill in my range rover classic 2 door.
What's the best engine and gearbox combo to use??
4.6 complete, all ancillaries and ZF HP24 box with compushift
4.6 complete, all ancillaries and range rover classic auto and tbox
4.6 block with range rover classic head and ancillaries plus RRC auto and tbox
etc. etc.
cheers
steve
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As it only happens when it's cold, have you also checked that the glow plugs are working ok?
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I went for the rear LED lights that LR fit to the recent Defenders...
sourced from dun-bri at Buntingford.
cheers
steve
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Given that as you say POR15 can't go over paint, I can't see how it can be recommended for any uses other than where you fully strip to bare metal or have a replacement chassis. So for most people it's not really an option to strip everything back, so there's absolutely no paint left.
Personally for the chassis, I prefer a coat of dinitrol 3125, then a couple of coats of 4941. Hardens well after a couple of weeks of gassing out, and is easily touched up with a spray can of 4941 for any off road knocks. For areas that need painting first then the epoxy's from bilt hamber/rustbuster (Jotun) or a chassis paint like buzzweld' ones are very good, and if overcoated with dinitrol it doesn't matter about needing 'Uber' levels of longevity.
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Not knocking him/company Dave, I was just pointing out that if you want it in colours other than black it's available.
Cheers
Steve
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2 hours ago, Coventrykid said:
Snagger I spent a long time under the car before I bought it with a powerful torch and small hammer and didn't find any weak spots or serious pitting so fingers crossed. I've bought a disklok as my first step towards security but would welcome any further ideas in obstacles I can put in the way of the thieving gits out there. The Landy has a the fob immobiliser but I'm sure there are ways past this for the determined thief. I was thinking about a hidden device to stop the engine being started or any other method to thwart moving it. In respect of trackers has anyone got tips on the best one to install and what the fees per month are for monitoring etc.
As you say, if you want to add another coat of underseal, it can wait until the summer. They may not have done inside the chassis, so when you do it, also plan to spray inside the chassis, bulkhead etc. with a cavity wax like dinitrol 3125. You don't need to steam clean, just take your time, and do a decent wash and degrease of the chassis. Just allow plenty of time to dry before overcoating. Aerosols are perfectly ok, just cost more than the 1 litre cans, but if you don't already have a Schultz gun and decent compressor then they make sense.
Move your alarm horn, from the inner wing to a position that's not easily accessed. Thieves often cut the horn by removing the front light. You can also look at moving OBDII port to a less obvious place or inside a lockable cubby box. The x-eng security products like the gear & transfer levers lock and ignition barrel lock are good products too.
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I think the buzzweld products are just the corroless paints renamed. So if you want the chassis in different colours you can source corroless RF16 in any RAL colour.
RCP = Corroless S primer
CIO = RF16
I also noticed that corroless recommends a primer for RF16, so it's interesting to see that buzzweld says it's a one time application.
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The rears are simply adjusted to give the chassis end bush more movement, so no need to change them. If you have caster corrected radius arms, then yes it would be advisable to change them out. Most are made adjustable by using adjusted bushes, so if this is the case you can just push them out for standard bushes. Not a major expense in this case.
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If you travel to Cambridge, you're welcome to borrow some to mordant wash and etch primer to use, as I have plenty here.
Cheers
Steve
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As David mentions, the short one is the high flow connector, standard use in Europe and the Far East. Most new tools you buy now, that ship with connectors, will ship with this type.
The long PCL is only really popular in the U.K.
Cheers, Steve
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Managed to source two original regulators at a decent price. I even managed to get an original motor for the RHS. No luck on left as they appear to be very rare for both regulators and motors and equally price goes up a fair amount. So I've bought an aftermarket motor for that side. For this type of part, I would have preferred original , but as far as I could see, none were available.
looking at the regulators in the flesh, it should be an easy swap. Just need to get some relays and switches now.
cheers, Steve
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Thanks for taking the time to reply. If you get a chance to take a couple of pics that would be great.
Also thanks for the parts info. Looking at the parts manual, there appears to be only one type of later 2dr door. So, as mine is the later type, the electric window regulators should fit with no problems.
cheers
steve
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I understand that CSK's had electric windows, have any owners got any pics of inside their doors? If so, could you please post up or email, so that I can compare with mine. I'd like to see if it's possible to fit CSK window regulators to a standard 2 door.
Thanks, Steve
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There appear to be two widths of seal on the range rover classic, but the parts catalogue unusually doesn't seem to shed any light on when it changed. So I assume there was defined VIN no. cut off.
Without dismantling, is there a way to tell by VIN, or front axle no.??
Thanks, Steve
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Logic would dictate that once over the equator, you only use reverse until your back.
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Make sure you use anticlockwise paint otherwise you'll end up with transmission wind up.
Does this mean that our friends south of the equator, have to use clockwise paint???
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Thanks everyone, as I thought - and rear prop now painted!
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I think I heard/read somewhere that it's not advisable to paint propshafts, due to risk of putting them out of balance. Is this correct, or just urban myth? Can a coat of paint really cause that much of an issue?
Expert advice wanted please, and if correct, how do you get them refurbished?
Cheers
Steve
Which anti corrosion spray
in International Forum
Posted
The insides we're done with 3125 too.
Personally, from using it on the Defender, I know that 3125 covered by 4941 works on chassis and underside. It takes the abuse of going off road, and regular pressure cleaning mud off the underside.
So when when the range rover classic is prepped and ready this year, I'll continue with that tried and tested process. Not that the RRC will see anything like the level of off road use as the 90, but knowing that it works and only has to be re-applied every 4-5 years is good for me.
Cheers, Steve