SteveG
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Posts posted by SteveG
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YRM do the weld on mounts and you could go for this if you want no compromise on or off road with an arb ...
https://foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=76
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Personally, I use these goggles with the masks as they fit well...
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p80545
For cutting, grinding and linishing etc. I use one of these face masks that naturally work well with the dust mask...
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p53860
The dust masks I don’t bother to store them, for the paint masks they do recommend storing them in a bag or sealed box to make them last longer. I’ve been doing so much painting lately I don’t bother to store and personally I haven’t noticed any difference in longevity, but I suspect it’s best to bag etc..
cheers, Steve
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Last year when the hinges on my teng cases started to split...
I looked for alternatives as the teng cases are not available on their own. I still wanted portability, and I like the set cases as you know when a tool is missing, misplaced when you’re packing up.
So the Solution I went for was to pick up some Bosch tool boxes made by Sortimo and fit some foam inserts from shadow foam...
I went for the 136 boxes, about £20-25 on eBay as they can fit two tool trays inside, but they’re available in numerous sizes. I got some ally plate bent up to size too, to hold the top shelf...
You then have the laborious task of cutting out the foam with a scalpel, before they were ready...
They are designed to stack on top of each other clipping in securely, and you can get some clips to secure the the first box to a shelf, floor etc.
Sortimo does a bunch of other accessories, tray insert and boxes etc. although they’re quite pricey when buying them from Sortimo...
https://www.sortimo.co.uk/shop/en_UK/BOXXes-%26-Cases/L-BOXX-family/c/47834?q=:tsa
Theyve worked out well, very sturdy, stack well and as intended very portable. The only downside is if a tool breaks and you can’t get a like for like replacement your screwed unless you get out the scalpel again.
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1 hour ago, Bigj66 said:
One more question (before the next one 😁) - is it possible to keep the engine loom connected to the engine and disconnect it from the inside at the ecu plug removing it with the engine?
Yes it is.
Having recently removed a 3.9 with auto and BW in one, I’d say no. The reason no, is that it was just possible for us, as it was a parts car and we had cut out the front panel.
cheers, Steve
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3 hours ago, retropower said:
Hi folks! Been a while since I’ve updated! Been a lot of non Range Rover stuff going on. Work is ridiculously busy and we’ve been on a long journey towards having a baby too, which is hopefully a step closer. This has also prompted a slight change of direction in on the build!
while I was being sensible power wise and going manual box and r380, I’ve now bought a whacking great holset he341ve variable nozzle turbo, fit for 450hp, and I have my 7.5mm injection pump which will fuel that without a problem. I now have an amg ml55 transmission which I will be fitting an om606 type front housing too (bolt on from the e300 722.6 auto box) and using a red winches adaptor to fit my uprated lt230 transfer with atb centre diff. I will be using an Ofgear controller to operate the auto box and the boost control via the vnt turbo. Will either use a cruise control rangey steering wheel to do the “paddle shift” or make a joystick setup near the wheel to supplement to remote electric merc shifter which will be on the tunnel top!
Will post some pics soon!
looking forward to broken axles lol
You can give Dave at Ashcrofts a ring if the axles don’t last.
I expected to see a brace bar underneath for the rear seats too, rather than just the bolts.
Glad to hear the business is going well and good news on the family front too.
How’s Gordon Murray’s escort coming on?
cheers, Steve
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On 6/11/2018 at 1:33 PM, bishbosh said:
Oi! I still have all my own hair!
(Sorry Steve!)
Would like to see more pics of that bumper please!
Here you go, this is all I have...
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Or in this nice dry weather, get a piece of chalk, (most real mathematicians have this to hand
) draw a line or multiple lines across the tread of the tyre. Drive down an even-ish piece of tarmac and check for wear. If it’s even you’re ok, if not adjust air pressure up or down accordingly.
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1 hour ago, bishbosh said:
This is where I hope I will end up, although with a lot less gubbins on the roof.! It's been a while since I fabbed bumpers so will have to break out the ceral packets again!
A blast from the past, 15-16 years ago, but here’s some pics of excellent front bumper that Nick made for me...
I have more more pics from all angles and of the bumper off the RR if you need them.
The rear bumper was easily solved with a jigsaw, rear exhaust boxes replaced with straight through, and never had any issues after this mod, mostly as I only hit trees going forward.
Just looked it up on MOT history and it’s still MOT’d and seemingly going strong, even after all that early abuse.
cheers, Steve
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P38’s rust too. The 96 one we stripped for the 4.6 V8 had heavily rusted outriggers, rear crossmember, and EAS tank. The main chassis was fine though.
Another thing to remember on D2’s, as well as the rust, the majority don’t have diff lock, so you’ll most likely have to retrofit one.
As already said both the 4.0 and 4.6 can suffer from the slipped liners, so both D2 & P38 are the same here.
Most of the electrical gremlins on a p38 can be bypassed easily.
A p38 on air is a better drive than a D2, but for off-roading, HD steering arms, suspension, bumpers etc. are readily available and cheap.
have fun picking one
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Thanks, I appreciate the response, albeit I’ve got to now go and get yet more connectors.
I’ve tried to unscrew them, but they won’t budge without applying enough force to damage them.
cheers, Steve
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I recently ordered a new SIP compressor and 200l tank. I’m now in the process of hooking it up to my existing SIP compressor with 100l tank.
Unlike the existing one, the regulator that comes with the new one doesn’t have the usual female 1/4” fittings it has these fittings with taps included...
What are they?? A 1/4 BSP will thread on, but it’s loose as there’s no taper, and it doesn’t look like 1/4 BSPP as there’s no collar at the end for a copper washer/o-ring and also there are two flats on the threads.
I assume there some sort of hose fitting that has a nut collar on that you slide into the receiver and then spin that until nut is tight, and the nut collar has an o-ring to seal it.
Either way it looks no good to me. Looks like I’ll have to remove them and screw in my 1/4 XF quick release females into the body of the regulator
cheers
Steve
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6 hours ago, landroversforever said:
I’ll have a look at ther overall widths of the P38 and the L322.
Steve, is the Lane from Hell down Dorset way by any chance?
No, although I’m sure there’s plenty of Lane from hell’s. This one is in South Wales, with a less than p38 wide gate at the top.
Here’s a video of Mark90 driving it...
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When I used to lane the p38, ~2001, there were only about 3-4 lanes I couldn’t do due to gate width. Typically one of them was ‘Lane from hell’ which was a pain in the derrière. Not an issue anymore as it was a RUPP, and some of the other ones may have been as well, so irrelevant now.
Only other issue was doing a couple of lanes on the mountainside where it felt like the ruts were the only thing stopping you from sliding down the mountain. In the p38 you could only drop one side of wheels in.
Still here, so obviously not an issue, but it certainly made you wish the Lane ended soon.
cheers, Steve
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4 hours ago, Ally V8 said:
Dave, if there are no misfires and the fuel trims are in the parish I'd leave the leads alone. The last lot of new leads I fitted were genuine LR - made in China... Did not inspire me with confidence, don't know where to get any decent ones now.
I assume magnecor are still decent?
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I found a hot air gun and scrapers best to get the majority off, then white spirit to clean off last few bits and residue before painting.
cheers, Steve
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After trying a bunch at various prices, the best one I’ve found is the 3M flexible mask...
Once the mask is bought, the dust filters work out about £8 a pair...
The fit is really good, and you can easily drop the mask down around your neck when not needed.
You can also fit A1 or A2 filters if painting, working with chemicals. I ended up getting two in the medium size and having one set up as dust and one as paint/chemicals.
cheers, Steve
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The diesels all used separate pumps so you should be a able to easily source a range rover classic diesel pick up that will fit your tank.
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I have a pair of RRC ABS and non ABS swivels here if you want to check if they’re better than yours. Hills Road before Addenbrookes.
cheers, Steve
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Hi Jon
Can’t help with relay, but when I had the non runner range rover classic donor picked up from Manchester to Cambridge, shipping via shiply quote was £267, to give you an idea of worst case costs.
cheers
Steve
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7 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
TBH whatever LR use is clearly fine. I can't remember what mine is, maybe 35mmsq, maybe less.
Or to put it another way: How many times has an engine ever failed to start because of the cross-sectional area of the starter cable?
I’ll look on the donor 91 3.9 and what the factory starter cable is.
cheers, Steve
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2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
We've developed a theory that fat starter cable kills starters... both myself + TSD have chunky starter cables on our trucks and both of us have killed starters. TSD managed to explode a 200TDi starter gearbox (!) and I managed to burn out a V8 starter. 50mmsq is massive, if nothing else it's a pain because it's too big to route/handle/terminate nicely.
LR use relatively small cable, the theory is over a certain length the cable has enough resistance to protect the starter from abuse and is long enough that the heat dissipation is within what the cable will cope with.
Same with LR's genuine split-charge - an un-fused 70A relay between two batteries, surely madness??? But the relay is mounted about as far away from the batteries as it's possible to get it (top of bulkhead, driver's side) so there's about 5 yards of cable round-trip. Reckon all but the worst possible case the cable would drop enough volts to limit the current + not catch fire.
Sometimes what looks like penny-pinching could just be very subtle and cunning design
Thanks John, this is the reason for posting this stuff on here. For example if you go by the voltage drop theory online and use calculators, like those on 12v planet that recommend no more than 3-4%, you end up needing 16mm2 cable for the rear heated window. LR uses what looks like the equivalent of 6mm2.
So from your experience of burning them out, for the starter feed what’s recommended 25mm2?
cheers, Steve
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They are obviously getting some juice from another circuit. With halogens you wouldn’t see this, but with LED’s they typically switch on at 9v, and draw so little current.
When you installed them, did you just plug in or look at removing dim/dip modules, isolating wiring etc.?
To get them working ok, you’d need to look at isolating the circuit and directly wiring them in to the main beam and hi beam switches. If you want the option to be able to retrofit in halogens in the future you’d have to do this via relays for a good install.
Hopefully this helps.
cheers, Steve
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39 minutes ago, elbekko said:
Good info, didn't know they had any that works well with stranded wire
I’m learning too
. I’ll see what the 221 series look like when they arrive, but so far they look like a good solution to the multiple junctions I’ll need, especially on the lighting circuits.
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Thanks for the replies. I’m planning to use 50mm2 from battery to starter, starter to bulkhead pass through and then this to SafetyHub 150 inside the vehicle. A bit overkill, but I already have a couple of metres of both red and black from previous winch installs.
The consideration of fitting a fuse was more from a safety point of view, rather than protecting devices. Albeit unlikely, I’d personally rather have a fuse stop a short in the starter wire/starter and theoretically prevent the risk of fire than not.
To go with the 50mm2 I ordered a 300A fuse. Reading through is this now too high?
Still here, so obviously not an issue, but it certainly made you wish the Lane ended soon.
Range rover p38 passenger door won't open
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
This usually happens when super locked. Double press of lock button. If so, you’ll need to get door card off and then lock off from the inside.