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Posts posted by SteveG
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yeah - I've found that when painting galvy stuff it flakes off - I'd guess it needs some special primer to key in - anyone know?
yes you need etch primer on galv as you do on ally
Cheers
Steve
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Defender had GEMS. Change over to Thor on P38 RR was sometime in 99 I think.
Cheers
Steve
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P38 ecu is a no-no I am afraid, and would be a right pain in the arse if you could anyway.
As per Nige's post contact Mark. Worst case he can do a full re-map and upgrade for about 850ukp and you get a better engine out of it. You can install the new chips yourself, takes about 15-20mins.
His contact details are..
MARK ADAMS
V8 Engine Management Specialist
PHARMHOUSE MARKETING
Land Line - +44 (0)1694 720144
Fax - +44 (0)1694 720143
Mobile - +44 (0)7798 582390
Email - mark.adams@pharmhouse.co.uk
If you call best to try between 9am and 11am
Cheers
Steve
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Hi Andy
MogLite is looking excellent.
I see you are not going for cheapo hydrostatic steering then
Cheers
Steve
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That looks hideous
stupid question, but what's the front extension part of the cage for ?
When they are coming off the rocks at stupid angles they use these front bars to slide them out until the wheels can touch. Otherwise the nose hits first and they either go nowhere or roll. Or it could just be to attach a hammock to.
Cheers
Steve
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designed by the same guy that did the Pompidou Centre I presume!!
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P38 uses a coil bank and wasted spark setup. It doesn't use coil over plugs.
coil bank sits behind the plenum tucked under a recess of the bulkhead. You'd be drowing the engine completely before water touched the coil bank.
Done that before on a P38
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Yes one of the options I'm looking at. Not giving up, I'll just be changing all the vehicles out over the next month or so.
Don't want to sell the hybrid as it's great off-road and has run faultlessly even in deep water Nige!! But if I go for one of the options there's no room for it and it will be replaced by something else that over time I hope to get to the same standard in capability off-road.
Cheers
Steve
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It's not pretty, but you could always fit one of the commercial vans vents/extrator fan on the roof. Or if you didn't want to cut panel work you could fit it to side window glass.
Cheers
Steve
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Cheers Tony
I assume there's nothing stopping one from fitting AU2522 CV's onto the necessary shafts.
Chris - well if they survived those X-Trem lanes in France and Belgium then they are ok for me!
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as soon as ive got them in and a new engine i will let you know..................
Hi gelf
I assume you went for the new ones that were developed for the Santana for Spainish military. If so I would also be keen to see how you get on with them.
Cheers
Steve
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Another approach, on mine I have a separate alternator that is 24v connected to two batteries in series for winching. Allows use of 24v motors, halving current draw.
Cheers
Steve
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Anyone know what the splines are the standard shafts at diff and cv ends in the latest TD5 Defenders??
Thanks in advance
Steve
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While you've got the axle off, what are you going to put in the middle bit before you put it back on??
Are you going for a bush on the rear end of the top link or rose joint??
Cheers
Steve
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If you do go down the dual battery set up in the future, you won't have to spend to spend loads of £££'s if you go for Big Si's solution..X-Eng X-Charge
Cheers
Steve
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Someone's been reading Pirate4x4 - seeing that sticker on your wagon, I can see where the influence came from!
Nope, influence was all Nick's.
I'm to blame for Pirate4x4 stickers. They gave me some stickers free when they screwed up a shipment. I gave a Nick a couple of red ones to stick on the RR.
Cheers
Steve
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Go on Les, you know you want a V8 auto that never has any running probs
Sorry couldn't help it. So yes what are you doing now? Or is it a secret?
Cheers
Steve
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Hi Stephen
How much is the back down by? If it around half an inch you can fit the Range Rover rubber spring isolators on bottom of spring. If it's more like an inch you can fit them top and bottom They are cheap, about a fiver and light to ship too.
Cheers
Steve
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yes I do mean the handbrake drum. Anyone know how easy it is to source one of these without buying new? Or is it easier just to order a new one?
Cheers
Steve
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Bo**ocks! I had my real dumb moment.
I was trying to track down my bad transmission vibration. I thought it was coming from the rear, although checking the rear prop there was no play in either UJ. Anyway I took it off to see if I could localise problem.
Test drove it with diff lock in and sure enough vibration was gone. When I got back I had a closer inspection of prop-shaft and sure enough one of the caps on a UJ had compeletly broken up. You couldn't feel play as it was jammed in place. Tried to replace UJ's, but without a bench vice I was having no joy. So I took it along to Mansfield to replace the UJ's. Glad I did, apart from the bill , as it took them an 1hr and a half to do it due to the broken UJ.
So with prop-shaft and new UJ's I was keen to get it back on, that's when I realised that in my test drive I had lost the back round cover to the transfer box - Doh!! I was stupid and thought that it was all one piece and so didn't put nuts back on - idiot. Anyway I re-drove the route looking out for it as I do remember it coming off - just sounded the same as a large stone hitting the floor panels so at the time I didn't give it a 2nd thought. No joy so now I need to source another cover.
Are these easy to come by at breakers??
Cheers
Steve
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yeah!! You need some long flexible brake hoses with those coilovers on. Show what 3-Link on the front achieves too!
Steve
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you'll be needing to talk to SiWhite, he'll be along soon. In the meantime you can see some pics here...
Cheers
Steve
255/85 ATs
in International Forum
Posted
You shouldn't put the 285's on anything less than 7.5, but an 8" will be best. Again for the 255 you can go down to 6.5, but a 7 wheel will be better.
Cheers
Steve