[OEM vs Genuine vs Aftermarket]

If it seals, turns or is safety critical, buy Genuine.

Otherwise don't buy the most expensive, dont buy the cheapest and avoid Britpart if at all possible

You often find out that a retailer thinks OEM means "looks the same", and anything without a brand specified will probably be Britpart

[Wiper spindle nuts]

Thanks to need4speed for donating me his washers

I tried to get the thread gauge on the spindle, but the way mine is, the wipers would have to come off to get an accurate measurement. It seemed to be around M8/M10 x 1mm, which would make it a fine thread. TBC

Thanks also landroversforever, I may also go for stainless nuts as well after your lead

[2015 90 rattle/knocking]

I guess eventually you'll be taking it into the dealer seeing as it's so new?

But to hone it down to a specific circumstance would help them out, such as: Is it on acceleration or overrun? Turning or straight ahead. In gear, out of gear, clutch up or clutch down? When braking? Does it increase with road speed or engine speed? Does it happen in neutral when stationary? Only at certain speeds? When cold or hot? Do you have larger tyres that could run on the bodywork? Any other mods?

Keep listening out for different combinations of these situations. It's a frustrating experience trying to track down a noise (ask anyone here). The steps after this would be start driving with one propshaft to eliminate front or back, but because of your warranty you may not want to go messing around too much.

I know modern Defenders have a DPFs which make a weird noise when regenerating.

[Maybe Not The End For Defender]

IIRC. Caterpillar own the massive parts warehouse where the components are delivered from outside suppliers as a J.I.T service [Just In Time] so LR do not have to hold massive amounts of stock, just enough for the production to run smoothly.

I went on the factory tour in Jan. A couple of interesting facts:

• They only have enough space to hold parts to construct vehicles for 2-3 days
• There are around 1000 lorry deliveries a day
• The body panels are made on site
• 2000 of the people on site are DHL employees doing all the logistics

Caterpillar probably makes LR clothing

[What is this?]

It's a homing device and one day all Land Rovers will return to the mother ship

[Maybe Not The End For Defender]

It's been speculated since January when they launched the heritage models. Up to that point it had been "production is stopping", then it became "UK production is stopping"

[TD5 Issues to look out for]

There was a good guide put together here which may help: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=90042

[Wiper spindle nuts]

I haven't checked the thread to be honest. Cheers for the tip offs

need4speed if you do that would be ideal!

[Wiper spindle nuts]

Does anyone know if you can buy the nut and washer for the wiper spindles separately? DKU500010 is the complete assembly.

[Defender 300tdi Steering box]

Yes.

It doesn't take much adjustment to remove the play. Do it with both front wheels jacked up so you're able to feel any tight spots when going lock-to-lock

[Distribution / Fuse box ...]

http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_5025B.html

The image shows two being daisy chained together. Although it is 6 way not 4 way

[insurance with a engine conversion]

I've just insured a Defender with a shed load of mods (including a larger non-standard engine) with Adrian Flux. They really didn't care that the mods existed, just that they knew what they were. They were £1000 cheaper than a bog standard car insurance company.

[What oil to use]

I get engine oil in Wilkinsons, about 40% cheaper than halfords. For trans fluids i go to Eurocarparts. Sometimes they have deals online which you can collect in store. They have a range called TripleQX which is good value.

This is of course if you're not a connoseiur of the finest oils, otherwise if you want Castrol, etc. you have to pay the price.

[300 tdi alarm issue]

Here you go: http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/users%20manual%20-%20defender%20tdi%20td5%20v8.pdf

Page 18.

[Rear Crossmember Bolt Woes.]

They're welded to the bar, so it may be possible to grind it off

[300 tdi alarm issue]

It sounds like the fob. If you disconnect the battery more than 15 seconds after removing the key, the battery back up sounder will go off. If it's been away from a power source for a long time (like yours) then this would potentially be flat also. Hence when you reconnect the battery, the alarm then sounds, as it might remember it wasn't disconnected in the proper fashion.

I used to get similar symptoms when I disconnected the battery using a kill switch.

Pressing the unlock on the fob when reconnecting the battery should just stop the alarm and make everything happy. I would have said replace the fob battery, but seeing as you replaced it, did you follow the procedure in the manual to resync the fob to the car after it was replaced?

[Rear Crossmember Bolt Woes.]

It's a captive nut in an L section bar that runs the width of the crossmember just the other side of the bodywork. You'll be able to see it from the wheel arch side when you're flexible again.

You can see the bar in this image below the bolts below the rear door. The bar ends at the outer bolts where you can see daylight.

[H906 MKV - White 110 Utility - Anyone know it?]

You know what I recognise that number plate. Turns out I added to my "watch list" a while ago (aka tracking spreadsheet of what types of defender sell for what). I was interested as it had a roll cage.

This is surreal. Here's what I have from Jul 2013, located in Honiton:

1991 Defender County Station Wagon.

Reg date 21/06/1991

Mileage 208121

11 months MOT, 5 Months road tax

5 new genuine Land Rover tubeless wheels with as new Michelin Latitude tubeless tyres (3,000 miles) spare unused.

Retro-fitted 300tdi engine, mileage unknown but seems to be good.

New Turner Engineering cylinder head fitted 1,000 miles ago

Rear cross member replaced

Body (centre) cross member replaced. Outer body mount renewed

Drivers side floor repaired

New brake master cylinder, servo, front brake pipes & flexible hoses fitted

New transfer box drive flange & handbrake shoes fitted.

Track-rod ends renewed.

New rear axle drive flange fitted

Recent rear prop-shaft

Recent CV joint

Recent new battery

Recent front wiper motor & wipers

Rear disc brakes

Kenlowe electric fan

Swing-away spare wheel carrier

Adjustable tow bar

Side steps

Sunroof

2" suspension lift

External front roll cage.

Tracker high back seats (waterproof covers on front ones) centre front seat removed & cubby box fitted (seat included in sale)

Bulkhead good

Chassis reasonably sound, some welding done for recent MOT

Doors not too bad, some rust & electrolytic action but all solid & close ok

Bodywork reasonable for age, slightly wrinkled on rear L/H corner, small dent in L/H front door, fairly straight otherwise

Snorkel included in sale but not yet fitted

Considering its a 22 year old Defender its in pretty good condition and drives well, unfortunately it no longer suits my requirements hence the very reluctant sale.

£4,100 ovno cash on collection

Tel: 07xxx xxxxxx

Update: The alternator has just failed, new one ordered and it will be fitted in the next couple of days.

Update 2: New alternator now fitted. All is fine and dandy once again.

Update 3: New alternator is faulty !!!! Replacement being delivered on Monday 29th July

Update 4: Replacement alternator now fitted, seems to be OK now.

[Fuel quality]

There aren't enough facts over whether different brands of fuel actually help or harm your vehicle in the long run. The same for adding 2 stroke oil/ATF to the tank.

Just buy whichever brand satisfies you.

[Which ROW spec bulkhead/main harness]

Awesome stuff. I suspect you've got £2k of wiring laid out there?

I really didn't comprehend that a 300Tdi ROW loom could come with an alarm, etc. In the interests of starting to figure out how it all pieces together, correct me if i'm wrong by i've gathered this from your posts:

YMC007583 bulkhead loom

• 2002-2006
• 300Tdi (i.e. no ECU)
• RHD
• With central locking, air con, alarm and immobiliser
• Without heated seats, heated screen, headlamp levelling, electric windows, BBU

[is this pipe needed?]

Does sound like a turbo hose. Maybe a split if not a leaking joint.

[OT : small ideas for my time capsule]

A lock of hair so you can be cloned in the future!

[why did I get a landrover?]

Why have 90 inches when you can have 110?

(Cue 130 owners)

[Which ROW spec bulkhead/main harness]

I've just bought a basic Td5 bulkhead loom for £20 as i'm interested to know how all the combinations fit together. There's not enough documentation of this type of stuff around.

[Which ROW spec bulkhead/main harness]

Unless I'm mistaken, if a wiring harness has anything more than air con and a radio, it isn't ROW spec? I've driven 3 and they are very basic. I'm not sure, but it sounds like you're trying to make a UK spec Td5 with 300Tdi engine?

The ROW spec in SA was sold as a Kalahari, but I think they also sold the Td5 at the same time, so could the SA spec you're looking at be for a Td5?

Retroanaconda did a lot of investigation here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=59892, and it seems like there's a dearth of information as Microcat/RAVE isn't really clear enough on the loom differences. It may be that you have to bite the bullet and buy one and see.

I imagine if you want a basic vehicle the various parts should integrate quite well (chassis, main, engine, wing), but trying to make a 300Tdi loom do electric windows and central locking with standard parts may be more of a headache, as you're getting into the unknown territory. From what i've seen, most of the large plugs between harnesses look common.

I've always imagined the best way if you want some mod cons in a 300Tdi would be to get a Td5 loom and make it work with the engine, subtracting all the electrical bits which relate to the engine (alarm, immobiliser, etc.)