dailysleaze
-
Posts
999 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by dailysleaze
-
-
They're probably included to replace the washers on the banjo if it's removed to bleed (even though bleeding is not required).
-
I get a cold left knee from the holes where the centre seat used to bolt through. Must get some grommets.
-
I hope they don't make their brake pedals out of plastic!
-
Thank you all. Is it normal to replace the water pump when changing the timing belt and do I need to get new bolts for the water pump?
Thank
If we're talking a 300tdi then the water pump isn't driven directly by the cam belt so you wouldn't be touching it as part of this job, but it never hurts
-
I've had britpart caliper seals when ordering genuine before, but they sent out the genuine ones straight away once realised. Albeit same order they sent delphi brake pads when it said mintex. I argued the toss as i wanted mintex and it said mintex, but they argued that they're a similar quality, which i guess is true so i left it. I don't suspect that their website is 100% accurate all the time, but i've dealt with worse retailers before
-
The LR label says "2012 Made in India"
-
After I received a damaged genuine crankshaft seal this week, I believe the supplier's returns policy goes a long way towards the value in the price.
The retailer has sent out a replacement straight away just from a photo, and doesn't require the damaged item back. I suspect for the retailer they have more flexibility in how to operate and LR's returns policy is quite trusting. Presumably because they don't expect many failures, they will always give the benefit of the doubt and warrant them on a small amount of evidence and are insured to this effect,
With the larger box companies the retailers have to collect the item and send it back for inspection before issuing any refund, causing pain for the retailer and user, but the company is protecting itself because they have so many failures. I've had to go through this many times and it's a massive pain when all you want is another part. It's also a case that if it's too much hassle then people might not even bother returning the item and suck up the loss because it'd be quicker to buy a new part rather than go through returns and refunds.
-
The retailer has sent out a new one just from me sending them a photo
-
Opened the bag with scissors well away from the seal. I'm resigned to the fact that the job will have to wait til I can get another genuine seal. It's just annoying when you try to prevent part problems by buying the best quality part! Looking at nitrile as a material, it can't really cope with temperatures beyond 100 celcius, which must be pretty close to some engine temps
I've also managed to mash up my ERR7143 front cover seal trying to fit it. I'm thinking of going back to ERR4576 oil seal for ease
-
I'm doing the timing belt on my 300Tdi, and inspired by this recent thread I bought a genuine and pattern crankshaft seal ERR4575 to see what the difference is. Comparing them and seeing that the £13.50 genuine seal appeared to be the browny Viton material compared to the £1.50 more blackish nitrile material I had a smug sense of satisfaction.
Surprisingly though, the cheaper nitrile seal is *identical*. It even has the part number stamped in it.
They even look more alike than the seal that came off the vehicle, which has been leaking
However, when going to fit the Genuine seal this morning, I noticed that there are two splits in it!
Now, normally the solution is obvious - send it back, wait and get a new one before carrying on. It's annoying as i'd allocated this weekend to doing the job. The problem is, the Genuine part is the one that's poor quality. The fact that the cheaper part is identical apart from the material it's very tempting to think "It should be alright"? The markings are the same:
I guess the question is, is Nitrile an acceptable material for a crankshaft seal or should I wait for a (I presume Viton) Genuine seal, which at the moment doesn't have good track record of quality? Although the seal that came off the vehicle that was leaking appears to be black like it's nitrile.
Usually it'd be a easy decision, but there's a couple extra things in the mix with this scenario!
-
When the missus drives
-
If you can't stand water, mud, and the smell of farming, bugger off out of the countryside!
Well said. Too many people move to the country and try to make it just like London.
There has been a change in policy in recent times to not spend money on trying to defend against nature. You will not win in the long run. E.g. money spent on carting beaches down the east coast to protect homes, to see it being washed back up by longshore drift. How's that not a waste of money?
Hundreds of years ago the Somerset levels were a tidal marsh. Man conquered it by draining them and turning it into farmland but you can't beat nature. Less has been spent on dredging the rivers as it has proven ineffective for the sorts of rain that cause flooding anyway. Better off not spending the money in the first place. Everyone that buys a house these days gets a sheet of paper detailing that property's flood risk. It's up to the homeowner to judge that risk.
Take the village of Muchelney, the -ey suffix denotes "island" in Old English. Of all the old villages that we've seen flooding of, the church that's been there hundreds of years never gets flooded. Funny that! Building on flood plains is stupid. It all comes back to population growth.
Don't worry it'll snow next year and we can all have a go about that again.
-
Because the 'box company's haven't commented, that is all the more reason why a thread with an attention grabbing title should be started to raise awareness about this Carp before someone gets killed!
I will be endeavouring to have this swivel ball subject raised on the widely read Australian AULRO forum.
I came across this thread where a new poster "bluebear" was defending Britpart, but was outed as an employee.
This page onwards: http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic13598-15.html
They hardly have a very good social media strategy! He was making the excuse that because they are a wholesaler, it's not their job to deal with the end user.
-
Not sure what vehicle you have, but with an r380 there are two types of slave cylinder that have to be matched to the push rod length. If you got the one for the shorter push rod it may not be pushing far enough. Was the replacement identical to the original?
-
It's probably worth sending a letter to see how far you get!
-
Perhaps an article to a magazine? Or all the magazines?
Unfortunately I think the magazines are in bed with the suppliers. LRO especially, their workshop sections/sponsorship/adverts/price comparisons all promote the blue box when they should know better.
-
Where were they bought from/what brand?
-
I think defenders in particular being easy to fix is due to the bolt on/off nature of the parts and highly separated parts (think of axle casing, stub axle, bearings, hub are all separate) whereas lots of modern cars have lots of more complex, expensive and factory assembled components. Take the bearing being integral with the hub for a discovery 3, etc. Therefore with the Defender setup it's a lot easier to introduce an error into the process that can cause premature failure. I wonder how many bearing failures of Britpart bearings are due to a wrong torque or getting grit inside during assembly, etc? The part gets the blame in any case.
The large market for LR parts means that you're going to get the entire spectrum of businesses from high quality to low price
-
My standard gauge had the same erratic behaviour due to a dodgy connection at the sender
-
I'd look at the intercooler hoses too. They get really gutless with no boost
-
Ok I re did the timing belt properly this time! Locked the flywheel and the pump, cam in correct position, belt on and tensioned it. Didn't assemble the front of the engine this time before having a go starting it and it's now running much smoother but snot quite itself yet, very very slight misfire under power but I haven't messed with the front of the injector pump to sort that yet, but it's still smoking like hell. But only white smoke, there's no coolant in the engine at all and slight white smoke is coming out the top hose port on the engine.
Now what??
You say you didn't do anything with the front of the injector pump. Just checking, did you torque the belt then tighten the 3 injection pump pulley bolts afterwards whilst the locking pin was still in?
-
I replaced mine with some fuel hose and it works fine. Similar to the one Ralph is talking about
-
I've seen them on ebay buying the rustiest pos Defender, then selling the parts a week later
-
This video might be of use
Adhesive that works in coolant
in International Forum
Posted
I've snapped the end off my coolant sensor (PRC7925) so now the float just falls off. Can anyone suggest an adhesive that'll work when submerged in coolant?