dailysleaze
-
Posts
999 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by dailysleaze
-
-
It's probably because the only "new" option is genuine, which are circa £400 each.
-
Lol I know what you mean. My parents' house has low door frames. Growing up it was fine, but now I've lost my sixth sense and leave a chunk of scalp every time I visit
-
Capability of generating shed loads of profit
-
I have a habit of standing up under the spare wheel carrier. Also the square folded metal that protrudes down from the front radius arm chassis brackets get in the way of my head.
Should get myself a bump cap!
-
The drain plug is 32mm, the same as the viscous fan spanner, which fits in the space easily
-
The next step is to remove a propshaft at a time and run in diff lock to isolate the front and rear diffs
-
It looks like your doors need to go up an inch
-
I'm off to Morocco next week from 7th to the 25th. I know it's also peak season for a lot of the organised tours, so is anyone else going to be there around this time?
-
If you have pic 3, then you don't need the mud shield on the flange. If you have pic 4, then you do need it.
-
Not so historical, but this time of year has the Peterborough show (this weekend in fact) which is probably the biggest in the UK and a is pilgrimmage of sorts.
The weather is generally more stable in September. July/August can't guarantee warm and dry weather these days.
-
Is it possible to get a good paint finish on a galvanised bulkhead on the bits that show?
-
For reference
This is the mud shield for the front:
And this for the rear:
However, there is also a different set up which has a collar that is pressed onto the housing, rather than the flange. This was my 200Tdi.
See the difference with a 300Tdi:
-
I do suspect that the turret assembly can have a lot to do with it. When I bought mine, 5th gear was very sloppy. I could almost push the stick into my left knee if I wanted to.
When I opened it, the plastic yoke collar had almost disintegrated
The best 30 minute job I ever did!
-
I just had this "new" product come through on a newsletter. I'm not into tuning myself, but it may be of interest to someone.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-200-300-TDI-Performance-Tuning-Pin-/321528307627
-
Mine's been a bit crunchy at times, but I've driven worse. It's better than the one that came out.
I tried an R380 a couple of years ago with delivery miles and it was phenomenal. That's when I realised why they're called "reconditioned" and not "brand new". If you want new you have to buy new.
-
It's very common. Sometimes I double declutch when going into second, just to help. Or don't change until the speed has dropped under 15mph. I've tried MTF and Difflock Evo 1. It didn't make much difference.
I find that the biggest difference is humidity in the atmosphere. Dry days are the worst and wet days are the best, regardless of temperature.
-
I would replace the discs, they're about £30-40. I expect the rough patches would eat through pads and you always want to err on the side of caution with brakes.
The hubs should be alright, but it looks like the vehicle has sat for an extended period, and then been driven again to cause the discs to get to that state.
I've also put the mud guard brackets on the wrong way round - so annoying
-
Check the wheel bearings for play. A slight wobble can push the pads back in
-
In UK law there is no "right" to park a vehicle on a public highway: legally, highways are designated for the "passing and re-passing" of vehicles, pedestrians and animals. Highway-authorities and councils may designate parts of a highway for parking though.
It's only tolerated because there's nowhere else to put the 30 odd million vehicles in this country.
-
Coincidentally, a 7 day disposal notice has been put on a car in my street this week. It's been there 18 months and has a flat tyre. It's quite a nice 07 mercedes.
-
I swear people spend more time fettling than actually going places, due to this perception being peddled by Foleys et al that your vehicle needs to be able to survive WW3 before you leave the country... Read "Appointment in Zambia" where a couple with no experience managed the trip in a Hillman Hunter...
There's a large proportion of the population that believe buying the right equipment is as important as "just doing" and learning as you go. All the gear no idea, etc.
To make a comment on Foleys, this article http://foleysv.com/foley-sv-in-the-press/expedition-prepared-land-rover-defender and from talking to them, gives me the impression that they're not interesting in selling you a load of bolts ons, but give pragmatic advice based on experience. I get the impression there are a few other companies like this, but there are some appalling offenders; typically the ones that spend the most on advertising and peddle blingy vehicles. The type of people who would by the bling also tend to be the people that are all gear and no idea, thinking that somehow looking the part is the same as being the part.
The rest of just just chuckle to ourselves and look the other way.
-
I used genuine ALR5055. They had shrunk a bit, so used some Tiger seal to stick once stretched and to make sure the cut outs contoured where they needed to. I had a 1-2 mm gap in some places between the capping and seal, but just filled it with cavity wax.
Here's how the seal sits.(This is the old one)
-
If it's just to change a wheel then a bottle jack is good. Get something to chock the wheels with also.
-
The holes on mine didn't line up either. I enlarged the ones in the capping then used rivet washers
Puma 6-speed Transmission mated to a 300Tdi Defender
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I'm not sure i'd want to have to remove the gearbox to change the slave cylinder on the MT82