dailysleaze
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Posts posted by dailysleaze
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FTC4198. Any Td5 rear 110 prop 02-06
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If that fails, did the slave cylinder come with the gearbox or is it new? There are 2 for the R380 and has to be matched to the push rod length: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=11898
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For the 3 dash top screws, I sometimes use an impact driver bit with an 8mm spanner to turn it. They're not usually in tight.
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This happened to me. Perseverance for 1.5 hours got there in the end*. You just have to keep trying different angles and wiggling it around. I believe the bush compressed slightly after being fitted into the crankshaft, as the alignment tool wouldn't fit smoothly afterwards.
*Assuming it is aligned correctly.
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I made my own and this is the difference it made just plugged into one light
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My 2.8 is great compared to the 300Tdi. Loads more torque. However if you're in the market for more power, then a Td5 might offer more value for money. That is unless you want to pay a premium for no electronics.
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£300 is a lot
I was thinking it's worth telling them even if it's your mistake: they may have an order for the one you've got and the one you want as a cancelled order. If you hired a van for a day would it cost £300 to drive there and back ?I mentioned it and got a curt and unemotional response. £300 is an estimate on £120 trailer, plus 400 miles round trip to where the chassis is, plus 500 miles round trip to their site. If it comes to it, it may be easier to sell this one locally and order another. But this is only really a last resort heart-over-head kind of decision.
At the othe end of the scale - and excuse my ignorance, if you cut the extra brackets off and painted the areas with a zinc rich paint, would it be a huge compromise and a greater risk in real terms?
I know that practically speaking, it would probably be fine. There is the sacrilegious aspect of cutting into fresh galv, which tends to get a few gasps on this forum!
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I'm buying soon but don't know whether to go metal or plastic. I don't like the look of my metal tank and assume that when I see it bare i'll want to change it.
What's the weight difference? I assume that's the advantage of plastic?
I went plastic for having no corrosion issues and having more modern/reliable fuel connectors. Plus I was having the rear crossmember replaced.
The plastic tank is about 10 litres smaller in capacity, so would be a lot lighter in this regard, but otherwise it's not much different.
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It's 100% my fault as I took delivery of it and did not check or specify exactly when I ordered. My excuse is that having 7 people standing around in the pissing rain on your behalf with 40mph wind kind of changes your priorities!
I did my research a few years ago and ensured the chassis was as I wanted it. Fast forward to now, when I finally have the money and space, with Defender production ending, I got totally caught up in the moment and never even considered that they'd changed the way they do them. I presumed that the cheapest and easiest thing for them would be to always keep the chassis as unmodified as possible.
I don't have an imminent rebuild so I'll sit on it for a few months and mull it over. If I did want to replace it then i'd probably try and sell this one and buy another. It'd be about £300 in delivery costs to swap it. Or chalk it up to experience and live with it. We'll see
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Well essentially for the plastic tank you just need 4 holes in the right places and the top strap brackets, which it does have still.
What they do change is the under floor supports for the older style, and add the bracket at the back and the front for the metal tank, which would have to be removed to get a plastic tank to fit. Just a bit of a conundrum as I've already spent hundreds on using a plastic tank set up on the 300Tdi. Plus having a correct chassis would have been nice from a purist's point of view.
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Mine arrived this weekend. If you get it delivered, it lives in the van on its side and won't lie flat until it's out the of the van. Unless you have an engine crane, you'll need 5/6 people to make this go smoothy without dropping it. The outriggers make it difficult to manoeuvre.
As a side note, I thought all Marsland chassis were ROW spec. They're not, so now I either have to take an angle grinder to it, use a metal tank or it's a large paperweight.
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Aren't Land Rover bound to supply parts for up to 5 years after end of production?
The guy on the factory tour said that LR were going to supply parts for 10 years...
If that's the case you should still be able to get new chassis...
They are, but for body panels they're going to make that supply in the next 6 months then close that part of the factory. After that when it's gone it's gone. Any shortfall I expect would be catered with one offs at a huge price.
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Do you have a suspension lift?
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I've bitten the bullet and bought a Marsland chassis. It's coming in 2 weeks. I've toyed with the idea for a while, but have had quotes over the years and the price has gone up about £100 per year for the last 4 years, so it's a better investment than an ISA!
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Get the cheapest 10W40 semi synthetic that conforms to spec, and change it every 6 months/6k miles. I go to Wilkos - £15 for 5 litres.
If you want more peace of mind then buy an expensive branded oil. I've been doing the above for 5 years and now at 170k miles.
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Looks normal to me. The amount on there is typically dictated by how long since the last oil change. If it was only 100 miles then that would be a bit excessive. Mine looked something similar on my recon gearbox after 8k.
When this happens it's time for a new gearbox.
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I would look to rule out dodgy electrical connections, particularly the fuel solenoid. Seeing as it's had an engine conversion there will probably be non-standard wiring.
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As you're using the Td5 sender, you'll need to follow the intended wiring route. There should be a white/orange wire coming from one of the speedo plugs on pin 1. This should run to pin 3 of the 20 pin instrument pack plug.
If this is correct, then the fuel light is turned on by switching to earth, so something is earthing along the way. This could be a defective speedo (where the WO wire comes from)
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After some trial and error, the solenoid's small nut is 10-32 UNF and the large nut is 5/16 UNC
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Save up and clear your diary
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I drove this one in 2012, but I don't think that helps you.
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Here's a photo of the difference between a Discovery (left) and a Defender one. I presume the RR would be similar to the Disco... You can swap these pretty easily.
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Their supply is quite variable. They usually have the pre 2006 front and second row doors in stock only for a few weeks at a time. The post 2006 ones they currently have are typically more expensive anyway.
But they will probably get more expensive over time as the number of genuine spares reduce. The commitment to provide 15 years of supply of spares for the Defender, actually means they're making all of the body panel spares now before production finishes; enough to last 15 years. So for body panels at least, there will be a limited supply from next year and I expect that they won't make any more if demand increases. Doors and bulkheads are pretty much the only sections of body that use robots on the line, so they would be more expensive to just "throw together" than the other bits of body.
I was thinking it's worth telling them even if it's your mistake: they may have an order for the one you've got and the one you want as a cancelled order. If you hired a van for a day would it cost £300 to drive there and back ?
300tdi PAS Pump or not?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Try moving the pulley in and out. If it moves then it's time for a new pump.
Mine was moving about 1cm, and chewed off 2 ribs from the belt. The roller that goes in this groove gets worn and doesn't hold the shaft tight any more: