dailysleaze
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Posts posted by dailysleaze
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Here's a 110 puma and 90 diff side by side
The 110 puma axle casing looks like this
A 90 rear axle case looks like your front axle
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I remember seeing that one at BIlling this summer. I took a photo of the engine bay as it looked interesting. Might help?
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Thats good news. I'm pretty sure my lower link bars are the same as 300tdi so see no problem - thanks for the probable confirmation this will work (for the mounting at-least).
Out of interest why did you not you a 300tdi A-frame? is the mounting to the axle casing different?
The axle came with an A frame. I couldn't get the ball joint out of the Salisbury, so I just removed the two A frame bolts and replaced it all in one go.
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I've done this mod to a 300Tdi. It fitted with 300Tdi lower link bars, the Td5 A frame and Td5 prop - all bolts up happily. The axle will probably have separate left + right brake lines for ABS, etc. I'm not sure about differences between 300Tdis and '89 vehicles.
The Td5 prop is between 114 and 120cm long. The 300Tdi prop is between 106 and 110cm. You should measure your handbrake drum to diff flange to ensure there will be a prop that will fit. I'm fairly sure that my 200Tdi had the transfer box in a slightly different place.
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Nah. Not sure i'd be able to sleep at night plus disapproving looks from SWMBO
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To update this for completeness. 6000 miles on this box now.
I always seemed to find that the gearbox was smoother when it was a wet day, whereas dry days would still have the "catchy" feel.
I replaced the gearbox oil with MTF94 in June this year and it seemed to make a bit of a difference.
A couple of weeks ago I replaced the handbrake drum and shoes, and that has made the most difference of all. It's not completely cured anything, but the number of smooth changes I get has increased.
These changes have not made it a whole new gearbox (the first time going from 1st to 2nd on a cold morning can need a double declutch), but it's made it better in general.
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After some more research, they both seem to have been used with no dramas. The swivel one looks like it's made for pre-Td5 as it has a sandwich plate that it screws into.
Here's some other good reading:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/post213250.html
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=2690 (Lots of photos missing but enough to illustrate)
I think I will try to get a spreader plate and use a Dixon bate ball with pin eventually. In the meantime i've bought the fixed loop recovery point.
Thanks for the ideas!
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Ditto, would have sold it
When looking for my Defender i saw enough businesses that were doing a similar sort of thing - taking used vehicles and superficially rebuilding them. "we'll include a full service on this 200k vehicle" as if that matters when it could have been abused for so long
You realise that base vehicles that are standard are more desirable to build your own version upon, as you can see more of what you're getting, rather than fresh waxoyl over a muddy chassis!
If the competition was to win a brand new Defender then it'd be a different story
(i actually work with the guy that picks the winners for LRO, so my morality flickered for a moment after i entered...)
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It may also be worth checking the timing belt to see if it jumped or stripped a tooth, as you were working the engine quite hard when it happened
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Maybe check that the pedal is adjusted correctly and it operates the slave cylinder against your thumb pressure holding it in, and maybe double check the slave cylinder part number as there have been lots over the years and if incorrect it may not push far enough
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I was fitting a turbo gauge and noticed there was a crackling noise every time I nudged the intake pipe. I thought it was the convoluted tubing but then I noticed the sparks.
This wire (which I believe is the alternator to starter motor connection) has rubbed through on the corner of the starter motor. It has got to the stage where it has cut through halfway. 156k miles
I seems a bit stupid and thought that there might have been a bodge in the past seeing as it was held with a cable tie and the convoluted tubing ended short, but no it's like this from the factory! Rave image with arrow where it rubbed through:
Discoveries as shown in this thread have a better set up
I expect it's having an effect on the charging as this is part of the connection from alternator to battery.
Has this happened to anyone else? And if not maybe check it...
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I've not tried to get it out but can see it'd be a bugger. Dentist tools?
Here's a photo for others' reference if they've got any ideas? It's the blue O-ring
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The grey rubber is just a coating for a nylon tube, like the one in your pictureI thought of getting some 2nd hand pipes and using connectors from there, they only seem to be pushed into the Grey Rubber Hose.
If i was to Cut the Hose Back, heat it and force the new connector in would that seal?
There's no markings on the connector to give any concrete clues. I looked on ebay and the major online fuel parts retailers and they don't have anything identical.
A viton seal of the same dimensions would be worth a go before chopping the connector off
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What's wrong with a dixon bate jaw? They're properly rated and with a good spreader plate should be ideal, same sort of price too.
Do you mean one of these? (lower pic)
http://forum.lro.com/viewtopic.php?p=523240#p523240
I've not discounted anything at the moment as long as it doesn't affect the departure angle.
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A tow ball would be fine but the departure angle has caught me out before and I don't do any towing.
It's a Td5 crossmember which doesn't have bolt holes all the way through, so i'm not sure how to get a spreader plate into the setup.
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I've attempted to find them but can't. I think they're made by a US company called Dorman - at least they look similar
I bought some second hand Td5 pipes and cut them off the pipe in the end. An O-Ring of the same size is probably the best way to go
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I seen these two different types of recovery point to fit to the tow hitch holes on a rear crossmember. Other than price and visual size, has anyone got any experience/views of their suitability? I'm looking at something that can handle recovering vehicles with 1 axle stuck, with snatching being a rare event.
http://www.lrsshop.co.uk/content/rear-recovery-hitch
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-recovery-Swivel-Shackle-/321077261238
I already have jate rings, but find the ability to not get on hands and knees appealing!
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All good stuff in that video.
I actually think your autopsy video is internet gold. A series of videos pulling apart broken diffs with different symptoms would be really educational, as you're clearly showing your expertise as you dismantle and diagnose whilst the camera's running.
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They disappeared due to excessive bandwidth usage on the photobucket account - too many people looking at this thread!
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Or a nice 27mm socket that's exactly the right depth to not rub the paint off your wheels when you gun nuts on and off?
Yes! But in brace form
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How does that affect the warm up of the engine and life span of the oil? I ask as the oil goes into the cooler in the rad and at a 14 degree lower stat it will cool the engine faster than it getting up to the 88 degree operating temp, I can't help but think that there is little logic in the oil stat opening at a lower temp than the water stat based on what has been said so far?
I would imagine the water gets to 88 before the oil gets to 74
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The workshop gods were smiling on you there
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Bought some new take off genuine ones and they fit perfectly. Surprise surprise!
The 2 pairs of galv ones have already been sent back. One pair already refunded and the other supplier isn't answered my emails or the phone...
Electrical component under the wing
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
It's a resistor for the dim/dip function of the headlights, i.e. it makes the dipped headlights dim when only the sidelights are on