elbekko
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Posts posted by elbekko
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28 minutes ago, PandaSpeedShop said:
Had a set of 285/75r16 insa turbo special tracks measured and they come in just within spec at 32.8” so will have a set of those on their way after pay day.
Be careful, being remoulds no 2 sets are the same size!
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Couple of thoughts on that post (and yes, I am a big proponent of hydrogen fuel cell vehicles):
- It doesn't have to come from fossil fuels. Just like electricity can be cheaply produced from fossil fuels, doesn't mean that's always going to be the case, so I'd say that's a pretty disingenuous argument.
- Generation inefficiency really doesn't matter because it's easily transportable. Nobody says you have to use local (excess or not) power. There are vast swathes of the earth with lots of water and nearly free power: solar, wind, geothermal. Line transmission makes these nonviable to connect to the grid, but hydrogen you can just chuck on a boat.
- All the downsides you list for fuel cells, except for the purity of the hydrogen, are valid for BEVs too. Lithium-Ion batteries need a bunch of thermal management, both heating and cooling.
You also handily didn't list the upsides of hydrogen fuel cell vehicles:
- Weight. Weight is a huge factor in efficiency, and being able to avoid having a 1 tonne battery is big.
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There is already a bunch of hydrogen infrastructure around. Pipelines already run across Belgium, and I wouldn't be surprised if that's already the case in other countries too:
![Air Liquide hydrogen networks in the north of Europe, (i.e., Benelux, Germany and France) [68].](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/346399946/figure/fig2/AS:999060311900162@1615205948897/Air-Liquide-hydrogen-networks-in-the-north-of-Europe-ie-Benelux-Germany-and-France.png)
- Refuelling time remains a big one. Charging a huge battery quickly is just limited by the laws of physics. Charging a 150 kWh battery in 5 minutes with a 600V charger would take 3000A continuous (!). Even at 10kV that's still 180A. Totally ignoring here the massive amount of heat the battery would need to dissipate while charging.
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Ooh, welcome back!
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That is seriously impressive, once again. Just casually making your own custom pneumatic cylinder, sure, why not
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I recently put 50+ hours into welding up a friend's RRC, so I'll gladly believe a 4k quote by someone that has to make a living off it.
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Oh, that's definitely interesting Simon! I believe my dehumidifier has that built in.
I still think it won't do much for getting water out of carpets without heating them up though.
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Navi has probably evolved quite a bit in the 10 years since. Not sure how good modern Russian topo maps are.
We had an old Toughbook CF-18 hooked up to a Garmin GpsMap 62s, running OziExplorer and Garmin MobilePC. The latter doesn't work anymore sadly.
Right now I'd probably go for a secondhand Toughpad (as I'm running now as my daily tablet - nice little machine and can take a beating). Take a handheld GPS so you can get out of stage on foot if need be!
I still have the maps somewhere, I'm sure Fridge does too. They're pretty old though, so might be worth trying to find more modern maps.
You'll get some GPX files with waypoints, and you get to find the best way between them.
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13 minutes ago, miketomcat said:
Deet
And get the good 90%+ stuff, not the camping shop stuff, or it will do nothing.
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The ferry to Helsinki is the way we've done it. Just plan in a lot of time for the Russian border.
Trailering is good because camp can be rather far away from the end of the stage, and having to do repairs jusy to get to camp after a hard stage isn't exactly great for morale. Plus actually being able to bring it home if you manage to break things spectacularly (not unlikely).
Driving through Europe with a modified vehicle shouldn't be an issue, all of those rules are for vehicles registered there. Maybe something ridiculous like driving a Proto on the Autobahn could raise a few eyebrows, but a moderately modified Disco shouldn't be an issue.
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Could it be a collapsing hose or a kink in a hose or something?
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Could it just be some initial "sticking", but not really noticeable sticking, that you're seeing on the gauge because you hardly have any air volume to take up the spike? Probably a reading from the manifold would look fine.
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I bought a dehumidifier to use in the car, but honestly it's just constantly running in the basement now because it does a much better job there. The main issue is it can't really pull moisture out of the carpets and such, only out of the air. But it does work a treat to stop more from building up.
Just remembered, last time I used it in the car I chucked an electric heater in there with it, that seemed to work a lot better to get moisture out of the carpets.
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Someone linked an off-the-shelf one in the comments too: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B48B2YM
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No, I mean these: https://gomechanic.in/blog/projector-vs-reflector-headlight/
Reflectors as most old LRs have aren't really suited for high output bulbs.
Philips has a compatible model checker on their site, and from that I get the feeling they're only approved for vehicles with projectors (which would make sense).
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On 1/2/2022 at 8:52 AM, Snagger said:
It seems Germany has approved specific retrofit Philips LED “bulbs” for headlights, as per this article: https://lumileds.com/and-now-the-first-road-legal-h4-led-headlight-bulb-for-retrofitting-halogen/
Hopefully, if they are E marked, the rest of the EU and the UK will automatically approve them.
Looks like they'll be around €120 for a set of H7s. Double the price of Nightbreakers, but might be worth it, especially to pop in the highbeams.
And I have a feeling they're only approved for projectors, not reflectors.
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On 1/1/2022 at 10:28 PM, Junglie said:
Interesting (and I appreciate slightly off-topic).
My previous BMW - a 2015 M5 - had adaptive LED lights that didn't just dip automatically but drew a little non-illuminated box around any other vehicle - head on or from behind - while still shining high beams all around them. It was so amazing that I'm still staggered by how good it was today. Really, really clever. And one of the reasons I got rid of the car - the lights are £1800 each and, like just about everything else in it, if something in them broke I couldn't fix it...
My wife's Mazda has them as well, and they're good...but nowhere near as clever and they still don't always dip fast enough.
I have them in my 2017 Mercedes E-class. Most of the time they're brilliant. But, I think due to some early production issues (mine is #5000 or so off the line), that they need to be recalibrated every once in a while - as mine do now, will get that sorted next service. My dad's, which is the same car but 6 months later, doesn't have the same issue of them going out of calibration. But when they work, they work very nicely, and I've been on the receiving end too and have not noticed any blinding at all, even though everything else around me was lit up.
There appears to be a huge difference between brands on how bothersome LED lights are. BMWs are pretty terrible, Mercedes are bright but not as bothersome, Peugeot is like a thousand suns.
The biggest issue with these LED headlights appears to be the very sharp cutoff, and everything under that cutoff is VERY lit up. Lovely for driving, not so lovely for traffic meeting you over a crest (have been flashed even though the adaptive headlights weren't even on...), or when you go over speedbumps/through dips in the road. And, sadly, cars sitting below that cutoff line will get blinded too, like a Lotus.
Another thing I've noticed from time to time, is that with the adaptive headlights off, more blinding goes on for low cars, as that section would be turned off with them on.
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I have some padded overalls made for working in freezers - they work really well. Bit less well after being soaked in ATF though.
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Looking good!
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7 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I seem to always have a ticking from the manifolds with V8's, the 109 is worse as the exhaust downpipes are not perfectly aligned to the angle of the manifolds and always seem to want to develop a small blow - if you want to come over and listen to it you're very welcome
Same. They just do that.
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57 minutes ago, reb78 said:
ETA - All I need is the right size circuits and breakers adding for the bits I want to run from the 3-phase distribution board in the shed. The conduit etc is all there. I think I may just do it myself TBH.
It isn't rocket science, just turn off the main breaker before fiddling around in there and connect the right colour to the right colour and you'll be fine
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45 minutes ago, ThreePointFive said:
I even put exhaust paste on the manifolds just to make sure it wasn't a leak there, and I've tried two different types of exhaust gasket.
Are you 100% sure your exhaust manifolds don't just have a pinhole leak?
If you suspect a duff cylinder, look at each exhaust port with an IR thermometer.
45 minutes ago, ThreePointFive said:The noise is definitely in time with a cylinder, but I cannot find which one.
Pull plug leads one by one, see if the noise changes / goes away.
45 minutes ago, ThreePointFive said:What would a bent conrod sound like?
I doubt it'd just be a tick. And you'd have seen scoring on the cylinder walls I would think.
46 minutes ago, ThreePointFive said:...and I still don't know what FTDI means!
The chipset used for the conversion. Like in this adapter: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/serial-converters-extenders/0429252
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Make sure it's being recognised in the Device Manager, if not you may have to go hunt for drivers.
The FTDI stuff should have native drivers.
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31 minutes ago, ThreePointFive said:
I can't remember when the last time I tried it was, but I recently upgraded to Win11 - could that have any bearing on this?
Definitely. Are you using some sort of usb to serial adapter?
Alternator can't keep up?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I'm intrigued. I take it this earth is on the body? What difference would it make if that earth is shared?