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elbekko
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Posts posted by elbekko
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Measured with calipers, seems to be within ~0.01mm, so that's fine.
Chucked it in the freezer now, hoping the brass will contract more than the steel.
12 hours ago, muddy said:could you get a chunk of 20mm ish plate, drill and tap for a grease nipple and bolt that over the hole? I would also waft a plumbers blowtorch around the outer circumference as presser is applied, that way if the brass slug misses you you still get a burning shower or hot grease 😃Â
Not a bad idea, don't have much thick plate kicking around though. And probably no tap for whatever imperial thread a grease fitting has.
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5 hours ago, Wytze said:
Can you tap that little hole to take a grease gun nippel? I use a grease gun for calipers when the pistons are really stuck. It allways works
Can, yes. But that would destroy the piston. So I'd rather not 😕
5 hours ago, Stellaghost said:Have you measured the steel bore, make sure its not oval and slightly distorted out of shape, would not take a lot as the tolerances are fine. Only asking as I do not know how much heat the locker was exposed to in the fire regards Stephen
Haven't checked, but good call, will try to measure tomorrow. Fire got pretty toasty, but so far gearbox internals and such from the fire have been fine - and the rest of the diff seems smooth enough. But could always be.
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7 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Drill tap and stick a bolt in?
Â
I don't have a new one...
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40 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:OkÂ
I'm not familiar with the set up however with a piece of hard wood can you tap the brass home, it may not move because it is cocked over due to seals being damaged and therefore jammed, tap it gently home and see if it moves, the other thing I would try and do is try and get it to spin in the housing, again tapping with some wood or try and use a couple of valve grinding suction cups to encourage movement. If all else fails degrease a couple of areas and araldite a couple of rods on to allow you to pull and twist, glue can be cleaned off easily enough later regards Stephen
I've tried tapping it home both gently and less than gently. I can see a tiny bit of movement when putting pressure on, but it doesn't come out further. Tried tapping it all around with pressure on, no luck.
I left it soaking in some 10W40 now, maybe it'll seep past the seals by tomorrow.
Â
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And another thing not helping is that you can't really get to the back of the piston - all there is, is this tiny air hole.
Oil doesn't really want to flow in there 😕
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Tried with some 10W40 - better but still not budging, even with some hammering.
Also not helping that the o-ring for the air line isn't supplied, and the smallest one in our kit is a bit too big.
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@Stellaghoststill want me to measure something, or are Bowie's enough?
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I tried that with penetrating oil, but I guess that's way too thin.
Will give it another go with some motor oil.
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I'm currently rebuilding an Ashlocker to go into the front of my P38. This is a unit @Escaperan for a few years, and then was recovered from his P38 that was in the workshop fire.
Most internals seem fine, but of course the seals need to be replaced. Ordered a seal kit from Ashcroft a few years back, which is 3 o-rings (and should be 4, apparently).
Now for the problem: the o-rings around the piston don't seal anymore, and thus I can't get the piston out of its housing with air pressure. The piston is some sort of brass, so non-magnetic. Hammering doesn't work, soaking in penetrating oil doesn't work.
Any bright ideas?
Also, had to buy new M5 countersunk bolts for the piston retaining ring, as the old ones were made of chinesium and all needed to be drilled out. But it almost looks like the old bolts have been machined down to be flush? Will this actually be a problem?
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41 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
Steve, did you order from the US or from the Euro site?
Didn't even know they had a Euro site. This doesn't look like bad value, really:
https://www.fireballeu.com/product/mega-package/
Just the clamps will set you back for half that amount.
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1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:
Some measurements would be good, I guess mainly where the sump sits in relation to the chassis mounts ie: position between rails, how low the sump is and does it sit further forward than a Tdi thanks @elbekko regards Stephen
I'll try to remember tonight. They're sitting on pallets though, but can take measurements from bellhousing face / motor mounts / ...
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9 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I don't regularly fab, but on occasions someone gets the brilliant idea that "we" could make some item of furnitureÂ
it's a faff keeping stuff properly square and neat, so a Fireball one could almost justify itself... he says, talking himself into shiiiiny new tools... 
Time for some Man Maths (tm)
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I can try to take some measurements of V8 vs TDI if you want, we've got both sitting around at the workshop.
Agreed with Bowie about moving the axle forward. Power steering mounts and such would need to move forward with the axle anyway.
Plus you can say it's mid-engined
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No way that's ever going to be square without milling it after welding.
The Fireball ones look nice.
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Beautiful scenery, but terrible luck. Glad you got home ok.
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2 minutes ago, ThreePointFive said:
Also, has it been established how that rear extension is held on? The chassis is galvanised and he specifically says there would be no more cutting/welding afterwards, so between that and the fact you can't see any chassis rails or cross member under the mesh, it seems be reliant on the anchoring to the body which might explain it's angle...
Didn't the description earlier in the thread say it was some sort of trailer?
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The only way to know for sure is to walk into a dealership and look at the paperwork... the internet says many things.
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29 minutes ago, L19MUD said:
That rear overhang though! Nightmare turning left or right where space is tight
I think it'd look quite nice without that rear balcony thingy.
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40 minutes ago, Chicken Drumstick said:
I want to be able to tow a car transporter/flat bed with something like a p38 on or at least a vehicle of that size/weight.
Then all the Jeep/Bronco/... options are pretty much out from what I've seen. There's barely any vehicles that'll do 3T+. Even a huge DRW Sprinter only does 2T, which I found shockingly hilarious. The Ranger might. The Jeeps almost definitely won't, they usually have comically bad tow ratings, even in Europe.
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Not much, he says, while getting more done than I have all week.
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37 minutes ago, Escape said:
I wouldn't mind a bigger/ more aggressive set of tyres
If only there was a set on P38 wheels sitting upstairs, just a little bit of trimming recommended
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43 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
https://www.mylpg.eu/ as well.
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You can relocate the spare, and have a tank in there. Not a huge range though, I get ~350km out of my tank in the spare wheel well.
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I remember doing the bearing change on a 300TDi pulley when I was still young and green.
Lesson learned: they're tapered, don't push it out the wrong way
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Sounds to me like it could be losing compression somehow? But very strange that letting it sit for such a short time would bring the compression back to normal. And doesn't explain the hard to start/keep running afterwards...
I'm wondering how the engine reacts to ether/start pilot/... sprayed in the intake when it starts to bog down?
it's a faff keeping stuff properly square and neat, so a Fireball one could almost justify itself... he says, talking himself into shiiiiny new tools... 
Rebuilding an Ashlocker - getting the piston apart?
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Great success!
Freezer helped a bit, but the big breakthrough was finding a small enough punch to give the piston a good knock through the air hole. After that it was a lot of oil, and a lot of rocking while applying pressure to the back.