elbekko
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Posts posted by elbekko
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No, that shouldn't be affecting it. It's just the drive blocks that always seem to fail in the same way. It's very strange.
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7 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
It's a one of them Toyota things, HDJ80 1990 Land Cruiser, it's got... axles... and stuff...and the rims are 17", that's all I know.
Almost anything would do.
From what I can find:
8x17 6/139,7 ET0
Looks like that pattern is shared with a bunch of stuff:
(copy pasted from a 4x4 shop): Application: Nissan Patrol Y60, Y61, Terrano , Pick Up, Navara D21 Navara D22, Pathfinder tot 2005. Toyota Land Cruiser 40, 60, 80, 90, Hilux, FJ Cruiser Mitsubishi Pajero, L-200 Isuzu: Trooper, Amigo, Campo, D-Max Opel: Monterey, Frontera, Campo Ford Maverick, Ranger Hyundai: Galloper
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I've seen a guy on YouTube (mbmmllc - cool channel if you like mining and gold) make a furnace out of just that ceramic heat insulation, no other enclosure needed.
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Another year, another second hand EAS drive block that bites the dust. Again the right rear that refused to come up.
Why always that one? And not just on my car either, @Escape is having similar symptoms, also the right rear.
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Very impressive, lads!
Half of me still wants to come along
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7 hours ago, Wytze said:
Been off road yet? On road it doesn't have to do much, from what i read so far?
Not until you start pushing a bit, or hit icy/snowy roads
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The "stump puller" (high torque) cams are quite nice in a Land Rover, definitely a worthwhile upgrade over a standard cam.
If the cam bearings don't show visible wear, don't touch them.
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Pushrods should be fine to reuse.
With that history, I wouldn't be surprised if the lifters got mixed up and reinstalled in the wrong spot, that can cause very rapid wear. Also very strange that only one bearing would be changed on the crank?
If it were me, I'd be tempted to just go through the whole thing and set it right, new cam + chain, new rings, new bearings.-
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Yup. I'm guessing that cam wasn't bedded in properly, if that was rebuilt recently...
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2 hours ago, Anderzander said:
So…..
EV conversions ….
😂😂
Exactly. Threads like this are hopeless here, sadly.
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Plenty of gearboxes around that can take that power, manual and auto.
Grab a Tremec manual, Rakeway has adapters for them.
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GEMS or Thor?
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I know those days where everything just starts snowballing and you wish you wouldn't have gotten out of bed.
If at all possible, I try to just walk away when that starts happening. Your mindset isn't getting any better, and just helps create more mistakes/work.
Like this friday, I was trying to put up a nice new lamp at the front of the house, because we'd be potentially working into the dark during the weekend. Standing on the ladder, wondering once again how this f¨%£ing house still hasn't burned down ("I'll deal with the wiring another day"), the lamp that had been nicely balanced between the top of the ladder and the wall for 20 minutes, decided to fall down. Of course straight on the glass. I told my girlfriend to take my tools away before I chucked them in a ballistic orbit...
And no, there's still no lamp up. Because now I somehow get to replace the glass. But at least we managed to get good work done on the driveway, despite my operating the digger with a 38°C fever.
Why did I get out of bed again?
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11 hours ago, ThreePointFive said:
My pipe for 10 goes from the right place to the heater but I've done the return (12) back to where 4 is coming out of the manifold. That means 4 isn't plumbed back into the bottom of the radiator in any way.
Yeah, that won't work. Both of those are "out" flow, just that one is blocked by a thermostat (if you went to the "regular" setup without the pig's heart).
Easiest is probably to check a D1/RRC V8 cooling diagram to see how the old hose setup worked. But T-ing it into a hose going into the water pump should work.
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Certainly not seeing it here yet.
I'm very much hoping I can get through the remaining cold days on the pittance that's still in my tank. Not that I can't afford to fill it up if really necessary, I just don't want to at these prices.
I've even gone back to throwing LPG into the Range Rover, even though it's become hard to find. At this point I'm not even sure if it's cheaper to drive to the office, or stay at home and heat the house...
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Would one of those pressure washer drain unclogger attachments work for that? Especially if you can do it before it locks up.
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20 hours ago, Naks said:
That workshop is so clean, it would make Ron Dennis blush
Yes, but is it the right shade of grey?
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33 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Well, here we go...
www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/shire-ukraine
Myself and @miketomcat are aiming to join the dots if we can and if the logistics pans out - if not the money goes to the next best cause.
Good luck to you guys. I already threw some pennies towards Jez, will do the same for you.
Let me know if there's anything I can do on this side of the pond - even if it's just a warm place to sleep and take a shower.
Also have my big box trailer available if it's of any use.
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That does look awfully like a crack. Top hatting might still work, I'd check with an engine rebuilder.
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10 hours ago, Flash17 said:
Cheers for the reply Simonr you right about the external timer option it is viable, if fact I could use the timer built in to the pod point to set the charge. However then the mains electrical supply is cut off once the charge is complete and can’t be used to precondition the battery and cabin before a daytime departure there for it uses the stored ev battery charge to precondition and thus affecting EV range.
Finally as you say I ought to be able to do it in my my view it’s a brand new expensive motor from a premium brand, it should work as designed!Agreed it should work properly, but couldn't you set your chargepoint to charge from when the cheaper tariff starts until lunchtime or something? It shouldn't matter if the car is already fully charged by then.
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Yeah, going to Russia might not be the wisest idea at the moment
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I agree, get a cordless one. While they don't quite have the power of the corded ones, the ease of use fully makes up for it.
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No, different size. M14 vs M16 IIRC.
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Why is it always the right rear?
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Well, the solenoid appears to be fine. It's purely the electronic drive block that converts the ECU's solid signal into PWM for the valves that fails.
I do wonder if the valve may be slightly sticking and pulling some extra current. So far both times it has happened shortly after towing a heavy load, so maybe when it has to keep the valve open longer than normal the drive pack burns out? Still very strange...