g&t

I needed two bulb holders (ADU4903L) a couple of years ago & after much searching found a LR dealer elsewhere in the country that had just three left, so I bought them all. Perhaps the same item is used by other manuf?

Perhaps they used the EAS from a P38

I'm not a regular user of the site, though I am a subscriber to LRM magazine. The first I knew of the changes was when I logged on & was informed that I was 'banned from the site - at my own request' Attempts on my part to contact them resulted in diddly-squat response so as far as I'm concerned they can spin! It's not as if there is a shortage of LR related forums after all.

Don't know if you've sussed the problem yet, but if not the following trade ad has re-appeared in CCW: www.sealsplusdirect.co.uk

Good practice, even with the original steel versions.

The only optic lighting scource is the one to the speedo needle itself (on all the four RRC's '85 to '89 that I've owned) A drop of clear silicone applied where the optic is pushed in should prevent the bloody thing falling out again after a few weeks! Don't you just love the design where the entire housing has to be removed & dismantled just to push the optic fibre back into a little hole?

Competing off-road without cover & accepting that you won't get paid out for any damage to your own vehicle is one thing - not being covered for third party claims against you is another. Claims for personal injury (or worse still, death) can run into megga money. If an accident was deemed to be your fault you could be financially crippled for life.

Suppliers don't always advertise in every issue so if you have a problem I'll look through some back numbers. I tend to only keep the last 4 these days as I had a clear out last year & chucked 3 year's worth. The recycle bin did well with over 150 papers!

Rimmer Bros. used to list some window rubbers for the RRC, if they still do be prepared for a shock to the wallet though Failing that use lateral thinking & pick up a copy of Classic Car Weekly & scan the trade ads. at the back.

With you there Phil, some out there are (dare I say) wet behind the ears I can remember watching a big old six pot diesel being swung into life by two blokes using a rope (loop in the centre for the handle) a guy on either end pulling, one after the other with someone else on the de-compressor lever. I've hand-cranked many a big straight six petrol myself.

Take my advice & don't Only ever did it once whilst under tow, never again!

Reasonable negotiation is usually more productive than argument, especially when it comes to minor faults, but at the end of the day the dealer will be only too well aware of the law : pretty well any faults within six months of purchase are deemed to have been present at the time of sale & therefore his responsibility. Check your paperwork first & make sure that he hasn't sold you the car on a 'trade' basis.

this is an interesting one, can't answer it myself but look forward to the discussion - your mate's views are certainly food for thought. I have run a RRC with an 82 degree 'stat & it did (according to the gauge) run slightly cooler, at least until you hoofed it when it started to slowly overheat, but that turned out to be a rad problem.

Agreed, I use Comma 15/40 in my RRC, the V8 was designed way back in the 'sixties & benifits from a more viscous oil. For a higher mileage engine you can't go far wrong with a good 20/50 mineral.

Agree with that though having a really good one tends to make me bias Mine is on agreed value classic insurance & there's no doubt that really nice, & preferably original, classic prices are on the up especially at the dealers who seem to have cornered the market. It has to be your choice, a lot depends on your own time & skills - if you can DIY then maybe it's worth it but if (like me) you have to pay for the labour, forget it! It is generally felt that '89 was about the time (with the intro. of the Disco) that LR started to use lower quality steel, hence the greater degree of corrosion found in later years of many RRC's

I know naff-all about P38's but a thought occurs - if you tow it 'dead' what are you going to do about stopping the thing?

Thanks Steve For me that's a workshop job so I'll have to give it some thought.

[quote name='Range Rover Blues' timestamp='1299624468' post='569697' I've also heard that later gearboxs (and the 4.6 gearbox) being set up to hold higher gears lead to excessive differential heating from the top to the bottom of the liner (high throttle opening/low revs) but don't know if there is evidence to support that. As for the 4.2, well there does eem to have been a spate of them getting new engines at around 100,000 miles, certainly for the relatively low numbers made. RPI's theory is that the extra torque of the 4.6 makes it less likely to kick-down whilst pulling hard, thereby leading to the same senario. When my own 3.9 slipped a liner in '02 I did a lot of research on the subject, it appears that early 4.6's were slipping liners for a hobby & causing main stealers a shed load of headaches as LR was still in denial mode.

Update : using a length of stiff wire I'm unable to locate the drains in the hinge mountings, but examination of the end drain holes at the sides of the firewall reveals no sign of blockages Meanwhile, as I've said before - looks like the kitchen towel again after an overnight rain, Tesco's will be pleased even if 'her indoors' isn't.

That's always been my understanding, so how do the acclaimed 'top-hat liner' blocks avoid the original cracking problem?

Have to be very careful in what I post here as my knowledge is totally outclassed by you guys but I think you'll find that it was the yanks that cast the liners in the original 215 ci block & Rover who went for the press-in method. GM one / Rover nil, or am I talking out of my backside?

Many thanks for all that Rangie, I'll have a poke around this weekend.

Thanks Rangie but I can't see the drain holes you refer to in Steve's pics. Would I be right in assuming that access requires the removal of the decker panel? Seems like an extreme measure just to clear drain holes, but then we are talking LR here!

Thanks guys, as you say Old Hand - a bloody silly design Luckily mine is a mid 'eighties with the (alleged) better steel & is also heavily Waxoyled but I still don't like the idea of standing water in the bulkhead. I'll try the 'sealer strip' idea myself but meanwhile it looks like the kitchen towel will keep vanishing!

Good for the Aussies because they have a proven use for the things, unlike the UK where marsupials & other such road hazards are few & far between.