G_Cam

Details check out: Not saying who owns it mind! http://vpc.autotrader.co.uk/consumervpc/check-vrm.action

Looks great - how does it handle now compared to having more 'standard' rubber on it?

NTDA link here http://www.ntda.co.uk/cms/index.php?option...9&Itemid=74 I was just about to buy some as well....should I risk it?

Not good! I replaced my rear x member with a Paddock one with extensions. I got it hot dip galvanised to give it an extended life. The Dixon Bate tow bar is not the best if you are venturing off-road. have a detachable recovery point/tow bar (still to fit) so that I wont catch my tow-bar anymore - mine went in the same way! phone: http://www.safari-equip.co.uk/index.php Ask for Tom (say Graham said to give him a call). They make mostly for the trade but are excellent people to deal with. You get a pic of what it looks like when fitted here: look under recovery/towing http://www.scorpionracing.co.uk/ Hope this helps Mine:

My 120 Clarke gave up on me (after 20 years) and i had the same dilemma of what to buy. In the end i went for the Clarke 165TE - its a 'semi-pro' machine with good duty cycle and smoothing capacitors. It comes with a regulator etc... I use BOC Argo-shield. I have found it to be an excellent machine for the money. I got mine at Machine Mart. A BIG TIP is to call your local Machine Mart and ask the Manager when the next 'VAT FREE DAY' is on. Normally all the Clarke stuff is (as the name suggests) Vat free! Hope this helps

PM Sent

had the same happen to me: it was a combination of 2 things......well one leading to the other. 1. I had a leak at the tank end of the pipework. I was drawing in air as well as fuel. 2. Once fixed I had to bleed the air out - unscrew the bleeder on the top of the fuel filter housing. I also had a duff fuel pump at around the same time - it exhibited the same symptoms - except it ran OK once it was at high revs (but had poor tick over and kept cutting out) hope this helps

Yip - used them too. Fleabay doors - If its the ones I bid on myself they were in Humberside and went for about £20 less than your local Landy Dealer sell them for. They were the later versions and needed a few different fittings as well (according to my local Landy dealer). LR sell 'bare doors' for about £185 (for the front's). I'm looking to replace all 5 of my doors at the moment then get the whole thing re-sprayed. It will still be a load cheaper than an 07 Defender! I Will fill/cover the doors with Dinatrol and hope that they outlast me!

I was wondering why LR do not offer a galv chassis as an option? It may cost a few ££ more but i'm sure its an option that many buyers would go for (I would). It would be easy to do at time of manufacture as well. I would also be putting a decent quantity of Dinatrol inside the chassis as well as the outside if I got a new LR that I intended keeping for a while. I will have a look at the 'Land Rover Experience' one to see what the chassis looks like after some extensive use.

Hi - I have those same LED tube lights ....free with Max Power? I put them in but added in a few dash mounted LED's from Maplin - 4 for £5. They are very bright - and it makes it easy to find stuff lying in the dash area. Here is a not very good pic (i now have a Mud Dash - and kept the LED's in situ).

My X-Member was a LOT worse than I thought it was initialy!!!....The general condition of the truck was not too bad but the previous owner had used it for towing and launching a boat....it showed.....there was a tide-mark where the sea water had got up to! I used to do a fair bit of welding with my 120a Clarke welder on my classic cars but it was a bit too light. I contemplated getting someone to do it for me but decided to buy myself a new welder (165a Clark pro). It is an excellent bit of kit. I use Argo-shield and this combined with the higher capacity makes an excellent job. This worked out more economical than getting someone to do it for me as I got a new welder out of it (the last one lasted me 22years!). The X-Member was from Paddocks - it was a reasonable fit. I did get it hot dipped galvanised - so no rust problems for a while I hope as I intend to keep the truck for a good long time.

That looks good - do you have a lift on the CSW? I have fitted HD suspension and a bit of a lift to mine and I'm now looking for a wheel & tyre setup that will 'fill the void'. I dont want alloys so I'm looking at Modular or Wolf rims? Does 265/75/16 AT sound about right for a 2" lift setup?

My 110 came with Twin rear shocks and front & reat anti-roll bars......I thought they all had that.....soon found out otherwise. Mine handles pretty well - I have just uprated the springs to HD all round + ES9000 shocks - all appears OK so far. It is a bit 'hard' on the back when empty.

I'm getting really fed up of being beaten up for being driving a 'gas guzzler'. This makes my blood boil. Perhaps its time to send a message to the likes of the BBC: http://www.bbc.co.uk/cgi-bin/cgiemail/radi...common_form.txt can you all (who wish) please cut & paste in the following: Which vehicle do you want voted off the road? Answer: Whatever Jeremey Vine drives. Why have you nominated this particular vehicle? Answer:Because yet again a once unbiased journalist has climbed aboard the tabloid bandwagon and chosen to wrongly target 4x4 vehicles by adding the adjective "polluting" to their listing. Why aren't bicycles described as "hard-to-see" and caravans described as "obstructive"? Please pass this on - to other clubs & club members........with enough identical votes they may end up with a different debate from the one they want to 'manufacture'! Being mostly metal - my Landrover ia almost 100% recyclable - is a Prius? I have started a new thread to see if we can get a unified response and send a message to the Bias BBC..........

I'm getting really fed up of being beaten up for being driving a 'gas guzzler'. This makes my blood boil. Perhaps its time to send a message to the likes of the BBC: http://www.bbc.co.uk/cgi-bin/cgiemail/radi...common_form.txt can you all (who wish) please cut & paste in the following: Which vehicle do you want voted off the road? Answer: Whatever Jeremey Vine drives. Why have you nominated this particular vehicle? Answer:Because yet again a once unbiased journalist has climbed aboard the tabloid bandwagon and chosen to wrongly target 4x4 vehicles by adding the adjective "polluting" to their listing. Why aren't bicycles described as "hard-to-see" and caravans described as "obstructive"? Please pass this on - to other clubs & club members........with enough identical votes they may end up with a different debate from the one they want to 'manufacture'! Being mostly metal - my Landrover ia almost 100% recyclable - is a Prius?

Going the Amateur Radio route is a good option. It gives you access to a massive range of bands and modes of communication. The quality of the equipment is FAR superior to CB kit. And the prices are very good for what you get these days. Do a search for your local radio club, they will probably run courses, there are 3 levels of licence. The foundation one can be done in a day, including the test. The licence is also FREE for life.and the big plus is tht you will be legal. Details of it all can be found at Ofcom. Via (but not associated in any way, other than the person running it is a member of the club, and many of those attending are also club members) the club of which im a member (SORC) is facilitating a course next weekend for around 8 people. I cant remember the exact numbers, but out of 200 members i think around 70 hold amateur licences. Its not a radio club, it is an offroad club, but radio slots in pretty neatly. SUB NOTE: I have now amended this post following feedback from a member of the SORC. It covered some fair points, However I DO NOT wish to get into the 'politics' of such matters. I am a member of the SORC. My post was in relation to helping a fellow Landrover Enthusiast. Not about the SORC. I am not qualified/authorised in any way to comment on the SORC and its ins and outs. I did point out that it is 'not a radio club'.

I bought Allisport ones for the turbo side. The fitted well and were an OK price. I have just bought a full set of hoses from Paddocks and my local Landy dealer (price varies and often OEM kit is cheaper!). However these are NOT Silicone hoses. I keep looking for a supplier, but never came up with one. I caould find 'universal' hose, but I was not convinced that it would bend into shape without going kinky...so to speak!

I'd...watch that wallet of yours or the... Local Pikies will avit.......!

I have just bought a new Xmember with extension rails and will be getting it Hot Galv Dipped in the next week or so (Thanks to Graeme @ the SORC). I intend to strip back the galv @ the end of the extension legs to allow easier welding...and save me getting 'heavy metal poisoning' when i weld it up. I will then cold galv the welds. Then paint Than Waxoil the whole thing. All inside & Out of course! It a belt & Braces approach! And in term of how effective Hot Galv is - look at the finisher rails on Series Landies - 45years on - still not rusted!

What type of stuff were you using the Landy for? Did you revert to OEM kit?

Oh Bu663r! They could actually last less time than it has taken to fit them! The fit is VERY pooor compared to the Superflex bushes that I put in my Stage rally car 14 odd years ago. I have them now...so I may as well finish fitting them...it will make replacement easier in future if nothing else!

Took me hours today to remove a rear link bush.....grrrrrrr. A press would have been VERY handy....but ended up using a blowtorch/vice,big hammer,chisel,hacksaw etc...... Eventually got it out....but I'm struggling to fit the Deflex bushes flush? ie with new bushes the trailing arm wont fit in the U bracket on the axel Do you need to trim them? Is it just me?