hattymender

Petrol pump not guilty! Water temp guage is at it now so I must have been kidding myself that it had plenty in. Is there a ballast resistor or voltage regulator in the line somewhere?

Yet another curious problem. Fuel (petrol) pump won't pump last 1/4 of tank. And it does have plenty of fuel in so it's not gage or sender, I nearly got flattened when I took tank off to investigate. Above 1/4 tank it's fine. Anybody else had this?

Citroen AX seats. Little bit of welding needed but they're cheap (if not free) and the base come out for access. My only complaint is that they feel very bouncy after sitting on knackered LR foams.

I've got a whirring noise when the clutch is up. The book of lies suggests that it's the main shaft bearing. Can this be done without breaking the box down or specialist tools?

I'll try this. I need the top of the bumper clear to serve it's secondary function; it's the perfect step for climbing into the wheelie bin to do my 'rubbish compacting dance' PS. The bollards in Tescos are covered in high density foam, but a bit trick to see with spare on bonnet. They give a nice thud when you hit them

My 'use the bollards in Tesco's as a parking aid' policy came unstuck yesterday, new front number plate needed. What a pantomime! Name, rank, shoe size etc. needed (and £9). Never again! So what can be done? I'm not keen on painted numbers on bonnet and being reasonably 'standard' I don't have a bull bar or roof bars to mount it on. I'd like to keep it on front bumper but give it some protection. I assume wire or mesh guards are out if they 'obscure' the plate? Any suggestions?

I'm in a minority of one (again) then. I bought a gas/gas less setup three years ago and use it 80% of the time on gas less. It's not as good as with gas but it's adequate (quite good when you get settings sorted), quick and easy and you don't run out of gas at the critical moment. If I've a criticism it's not the weld or splatter it's the brown fog it creates which obscures the weld pool and fogs your mask (I can create my own brown fog without the welder's help) Also (this may shock you) there's more out there to weld than just Land Rovers! Since discovering that 'that sparky thing' sticks metal together my wife's had me mend dog guards, fabricate hanging basket brackets, etc, etc. Gas less? Perfect for these jobs. Totally agree with previous comments about buying quality kit. If you're going to use it a lot. But for the occasional 'critical' job wouldn't you be better spending the money you saved getting it done professionally?

Just been looking at the rear cross member (as you do) and wondered what all the holes are for? Some for tow bar mounting. Some for jacking. Some could be used for bumpers/handles. That still leaves quite a few. So what are they for? PTOs etc. went out with Series cross members so they can't be for that? Can only think that they're to let the mud in. On the same vein there's a lot of holes in the main chassis that have me baffled. Even when you discount drainage, wiring, 'extras' such as side steps it still leaves a few. Weight reduction? Must save all of 1/4lb.

At least he gets some oil on him, unlike other TV representations of 'mechanics'. Debbie Dingle (always immaculate), Kevin Webster (just needs to wash his hands before going to Rovers), etc. Doesn't matter what I do (even filling washer bottle) when I come in I need a catering size bucket of swarfega and a shower. I enjoyed the DVDs but, as said, it's more entertainment than instruction manual. He does have an anoying knack of braking off when it get's 'technical' to show some shots of somebody doing something daft in the mud. As said before, if you're not familiar with spanners or as an introduction to Land Rovers it's as good as anything else.

Think I can answer my own question. Been for a forage on Ford Forums. Later models have EDIS integrated with ECU, therefore no module. Sods law stikes again.

EDIS unit needed for Mega Jolt on Series. I've got a '97 Escort on front for scrap so all I need to do is take unit off. BUT I CAN'T FIND IT! Haynes say it's on near side wing. No. Nothing. I've had battery out, airbox off, and had and given it a thrashing Basil Fawlty would have been proud of. But no unit. Anybody know where they hide it???????? Rich

Having spent far too much time fooling about with a multimeter looking connectors etc. I was wondering; does anybody do a decent 'connector to connector' harness layout? Parts catalogues are limited, they give a vague gist of connectors and layout Not the wiring diagram, that's fine for what it is but it'll show a connector in isolation when it could well be part of a multiblock etc. Must be somebody who does this?

It's Friday already! Holiday almost over and I'm up early waiting for daylight so I can cram 1 week's planned work into 1 day! The V8 is still scattered around a barn rather than rumbling me around (or rather from fuel station to fuel station). Excesses include: It's cold. Needed to fix Freealnder (head gasket). Day's too short. Stuff on telly (bit lame, but true). Ate too much. etc. All feeble. But I promised the lads at work I'd have it done. So I need a really good justification. Suggestions?

Daughter's boyfriend hit a problem (again). 1.8 K Series Freelander; sudden loss of power, white smoke, loss of water and emulsified oil. Head gasket then? Read the tech archive and ready to get spanners out. But what else to look for? Does head always need skimming? How far out of true before it needs skimming? Or scrapping? (he said temperature remained 'normal'. So I'm hopeful not too much damage done. Maybe). Does block warp? Cams, hydraulic followers? What to check? What type of gasket? It's a year 2000, seem to recall that the latter ones had an improved gasket? Will this fit an earlier engine? Guess we'll need head and manifold gaskets. And oil, filters, antifreeze (plus tea, cigs, bacon sarnies, sudden warm spell, etc.). Cam belt's less than 6 months old but what else? Any other seals/parts worth a look while we've got it apart?

Gear box protection? Top one looks a bit like the removal cradle in the manual. Clues? Scale?

Is there a prize?

Cheers! Think I've got an alternator off a diesel somewhere. Wonder what's the chances of them being compatable? But that would be too easy...........

Ignition light glowing faintly. Sometimes can only be seen in dark. Quite distinct from normal 'bright' light when engine not running. Comes and goes regardless of engine speed but normally worse after starting then gradually fades. Brushes? Diodes? Bad earth?

Not sure what's a MOT requirement or what's fashion. I've had (and still got) cars with dash mounted lights, wiper switches and floor mounted dip/high beam control (which is great, much better than hand). My daughters' Focus has; horn, lights, indicators, wipers (front and rear), washers, radio, CD and cruse control all to hand. Daren't touch a damn thing without something else going off. Thought it was more a case of 'if it's fitted it should work'?

The little hole found by the MOT man before Christmas got some attention today (her family turned up, so I decided I'd rather spend the day under a car welding ). But the 'little hole' is now as big as a badger set with no sign of 'honest metal', think my hammer's bigger than the MOT one. So she's for the scrap man . What to salvage from a 1.8 Zetec for 'project V8'? Coils and crank sensor? Start of megajolt project? Battery? Could run auxiliaries via split charge? Seat belts? Always needed 'cos Defender doors eat them. Relays? Intermittent wipers? Door lock solenoids? Speakers? Alternator? They can be adapted for V belt? Suggestions?

One thing to be said for Discovery. The back door. You can actually get things in! My 110 great at moving things less than 2'6" wide. Otherwise it's useless.

I did have a change, but as I was just going from field to field I didn't bother. Also, I've done the 'hop on one foot, and fall over in mud' game many, many times. It's not always handy to change and I think Defender's make the problem worse by having such a heavy clutch.

Coming home from a day's not shooting (bog all doing, rabbits on holiday?) with muddy boots my foot slipped off the clutch pedal! Fortunately in the middle of nowhere so no harm done but it doesn't take a lot of imagination to see it could have been nasty. The pedal rubbers are quite new so I'm thinking along the lines of something a bit more 'grippy' for muddy boots/wellys. Anybody tried checker plate or similar?

Isn't it down to what Land Rovers are all about? Lot of talk about being Disco's being better on motorways. etc. Well either of our Ford 'Euroboxes' is miles better than a Discovery on the motorway. Faster, comfier and cheaper. But boring. The 110 is cold. Slow. Uneconomic. Leaks (even lets snow in if wind is in wrong direction). It's battered, abused, knee deep in rubbish. And I love it. I do wonder why some buy a 'proper' Land Rover (one with a chassis) and then immediately try to make it more like a car?

Still tracking down my dribbling breather fault. Carb stripped, float needle a bit tired (but not much). New one's ordered. It's worse on the right hand carb, the one with the fuel return at the inlet junction. How easy should it be for fuel to return? A (highly scientific) 'blow' test showed that the pipe's not blocked but I did have to blow quite hard to get things moving. Logically there should be some resistance or all the fuel would take this route rather than into the carb. But if there's too much could it overwhelm the float? The pipe I'm using isn't standard, I took a guess at size and used same dia as feed pipe, is this too small? Or am I talking b**ls again?