p76rangie

This is the site for metal footwells, etc. http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/range-rover-classic-1-c.asp

I put one from an 86 into a 74 and they were identical. I assume the same for later models. There is a mob in the UK that makes the panels. Can't remember the name, but they were very cheap in price.

It is the wading drain hole. It is normally left open, It is only when you expect to go wading that you screw the plug in. The plug will have a square head on it and it is stored on the rear face of the bell housing near the drain hole.

Sounds like you need to build yourself a surge tank. With a carb motor it does not matter whether the fuel moves away from the pump for a short time as you have a float bowl full of fuel to last you. EFI is different that it needs fuel from the pump all the time. The EFI tanks/pumps have a bowl at the base of the pump that ensures fuel is always there. You can get the same effect from making up a separate small tank just big enough for the fuel pump to sit in. Then supply this tank with a normal fuel pump from the main tank. This will stop the fuel moving away from the pump as there is nowhere for it to go. Also http://www.offroadvw.net/bajawes/V6_baja/September03.html

The catches are very different between the two types. The internal handle tailgates have a catch similar to the rear 60/40 seats. You could possibly go from the old type to the new type with engineering up some adaptors, would be a lot more difficult going the opposite way as the old type are a bar going well into the sides of the frame.

On the top rear of the tailgate there should be 4 black plastic tabs sticking up. This stops it opening without the top opening as well.

Independent tests have shown that 10 spline axles are just as strong, if not stronger than 24 spline. 24 spline are slightly thicker but they used lower quality steel in them. It is just that if you want to go for aftermarket HD axles 24 spline are easier to find that 10 spline ones.

Some are narrower than others. The 235 is measured at the widest part of the tyre, typically the bulge halfway between the rim and the tread. So if you are looking for a tyre, measure the actual tread width. I currently have Goodyear duratreks 235's and the tread width is wider than my 255 MTs.

Interesting. That is where the Leyland P76 version of the Rover V8 had the engine number.

235/85/16 is a good size tyre (32inch) that will fit in on standard rims and a 2 inch body lift. It is a reasonably common size. It sounds like you need to put a block under your right pedal also if you are breaking an axle every time you go out.

You will need a 2 inch body lift to clear 32 inch tyres. Whether you have to trim the guards will depend on the width of the tyre. Anything wider than 9.5 inches is likely to need a trim. If you are going wider than this you will also need to consider offsetting the rims to maintaining a turning circle and to stop tyres rubbing on the inside of the wheel arches. In such a case you a definitely looking at trimming the guards. I can't remember the thread on the transfer box selector, but you just buy a nut and bolt with the same thread. Then weld the nut onto the head of the bolt. The nut will then screw onto the existing shaft and the knob onto the thread part of the bolt.

the one on my 76 looks the same as number 8 without the outside edge.

The part he is after is not listed there. It is a triangle shape bracket with the based on the triangle bent at 90 degrees. The bent part of the base bolts to where the rubber part of the mudflap bolts to the metal section. the rest of the bracket effectively lays along the bottom ridge of the quarter panel and bolts to it about 1 inch back from the mudflap.

It just attaches by a single bolt to the outside edge of the metal sheet that the rubber part of the mudflap attaches to. There is a rubber seal that goes on the outside edge of the inner wheel arch that also helps stop the guard flapping around.

Maybe the question is whether he has changed anything in the coil wiring since it last ran. Maybe someone has just connected it to the positive side instead of the negative.

There are basically two types of coils used in the older vehicles. One uses a resistor and one does not. So what coil did you buy? Does it say "use only with resistor" on it somewhere or does the model of coil have an "R" at the end of it. If so, it needs a resistor and you will burn it out if you run it without one. Basically the coil is designed to run with a power supply of around 9 volts. The resistor drops the cars 12 volts down to this 9 volts. The reason they did this is that there should be a second power lead going to the coil from the starter motor. When you are starting the car it provides a full 12 volts to the coil which causes the coil to put out a stronger spark so the motor will start easier. But if you run the coil at 12 volts all the time it will overheat. So they have a second wire going to the coil that only provides 9 volts for once the car is running. Land Rover tended to use a resistor wire rather than a resistor to drop the voltage. But these wires overheat over the years and people replace them with a 12 volt ignition sourced power lead and use a resistor. If you need a resistor you can go to any autoparts store and purchase a generic coil resistor. They are usually a white ceramic looking thing about 1 1/2 inches long and has a coiled up wire running between the terminals at either end. So don't worry about the resistance in the resistor you have, just see what voltage comes out the coil side with the ignition on but not in the "start" position. Then measure the voltage to the coil with the key in the start position. The first should be around 9 volts and the second above 12 volts. If you are not getting the correct voltage on start, check the small wires down on the starter motor.

Looks good. Hope you did not leave any bits of metal in it this time.

pull over and switch off the motor next time the temp gauge goes up. If it boils after switching it off you have a cooling problem. If it doesn't, then you might just have a faulty gauge and/or sender.

You are best staying with Land Rover springs. There are a large selection of different lengths and weights which allow you to better set up your vehicle than a one size fits all approach from many aftermarket places. http://www.4x4store-exeter.co.uk/catalog/The%204x4%20store%20rr%20ca/RR%20web%20gallery/SPRINGS.HTM

Most lifted vehicles have less travel than standard. You will also find that most lifted springs are basically no longer than standard. So unless you have added weight to the vehicle, you do not add a lift if you still want it to articulate.

A spring lift only requires springs. No need to change shocks unless they are stuffed. If you have added any weight to the car (bull bar, winch, dual batteries, etc, etc) a 2 inch spring lift is only going to bring you back a bit above standard.

The white filler highlights the drain holes either side of the hinge support in the photo. The system then drains out the side of the panel. You can see the end drain point if you look underneath the decker plate where it curves down either side. Look in the cavity between the top of the front fenders and the decker panel. The end drain point on the side of the firewall can be seen in the photo below just above what appears as brown marks on the side.

As you have 14 bolt heads and block, you should be using a metal head gasket rather than a composite. To fit a composite you should shave the head 40 thou. This should get rid of a lot of your marking from the bolt/screw/nut and allow you to use composite gaskets in the future.

As in Steve's photo there are drain holes either side of the hinge bracket. If it is filling up with water the drain holes must be blocked. This would mean that all the water getting in through the air vent area is also being trapped in there.

Whether it be 500 or 5,000, it is still a new cam. Lifters bed into the cam, not the other way around.