p76rangie

Firstly the colour codes in wiring diagram do not apply to many of the looms out there. Secondly, there are two plugs in the wiring diagram that plug into other looms. These plugs are 32 and 12 on the wiring diagram. These two plugs have 12 wires as a minimum that you need to work out where they connect into you old wiring loom. Then it is going to come down to what type of job you are going to do. Are you going to leave all those plugs, relay mounts, and extra wiring in the loom and leave it to future people who may have to work on or own your car to figure it out. Or are you going to get rid of all the stuff that you are not going to use and simplify everything so someone might be able to sort it out in the future. Then you have things in the wiring loom that have nothing to do with the EFI, like sensor wires for your gauges and tacho, alternator wiring, etc. When you are fitting it to an older motor, such things are often in different locations. Again are you just going to leave such wiring hanging out of the loom, put it to the right location, or remove it. As previously stated, the main thing missing is a speed transducer on your existing carbie vehicle. It will run without it, but you will have **** idling and lack of engine braking off-road. To me it seems to defeat the purpose of attempting to improve your vehicle with EFI if all you are interested in is the quickest and dirtiest way of putting it in.

Just because you move the lever across to lock or unlock the diff does not mean that it actually locks or unlocks. They can stick in either function. So he most likely moved the lever when changing the clutch. It could have got stuck with the centre diff locked. Therefore it might not have been his fault outside not checking that everything was correct before handing back the vehicle. Also having the centre diff locked makes it easier to line up the input shaft with the clutch when putting it back together. That is, you can turn either of the output shafts to get the input shaft to turn to get it to line up. He also might not have connect the the lever back up correctly when finishing the job. This may explain why it was in the wrong position. In this case it probably was his fault. In either case the diff lock light should have been on if it was functioning. So I do not believe that it is a clear cut case that the mechanic was negligent, But might have been.

I do not keep a record of brand names on gaskets. I simply buy them from someone I trust and I know will sell me good stuff. There are basically two main theories about why head gaskets on Rover V8s fail. One believes it relates to overheating the motor. The other believes that it relates to incorrect tensioning of the head. The coarse threads required for a alloy block make it difficult to get all the tensions on the bolts exactly the same. Studs get around this by having a nut with fine threads on a steel stud. So if the gaskets go because of incorrect tensions, then studs will help save your gasket in the future. The theory of bolt tension was also support by the fact that gasket failures reduced dramatically when they shifted to torque to yield bolts. TTY bolts are better in obtaining even and correct tensions, but still not as good as studs.

The coolant passes from the block to the heads at the rear of the engine on each bank of cylinders. The coolant, or lack of it, can affect the head gasket causing a leak either to the outside or to the rear cylinders. A head gasket can go between cylinders, but you would have had two cylinders next to each other with low compression. Which you don't have. So the lower reading on the drivers side is either an inaccurate reading or something like valves not sealing proper. Unlikely to be a head gasket issue. It is also best to replace the head bolts with ARP studs to help avoid any problems in the future.

It is usually the rear cylinders that will blow the gasket. By the rear passenger side only being 120 psi, there is a very good chance that you have done the head gasket at that cylinder. If it was a slipped liner, you would hear it once the motor warmed up.

The plastic tanks are better and the bolt positions should be the same as the metal tanks. The carb tanks have the outlet and fuel sender on the side of the tank, the EFI ones have it on the top. As it is a 71 with an EFI, it does not mean that it has an EFI tank. You can fit an aftermarket external fuel pump and keep the old tank. So you need to check what they have done when they converted it.

Depending on the model, there should be a panel on the inside of the rear on the side panels near the rear taillights. There are only a couple of screws holding it on and removing it will give you access to the bolts holding the rear corner to the rear quarter. So, depending on the model, you should be able to remove it without taking off the rear quarter.

They seemed to change their distributors every couple of years. I have a shed full of them and no 2 are the same. That said, they will all fit. It might be that the wiring is slightly different or that you cannot swap parts between them.

Doing that will mean that the fuel pump will not switch back off if the motor is not running. This function is controlled by the ECU. So whenever the ignition is on the pump will run and pressurise the system.

The big brown orange goes to power the injectors, etc The big brown green goes to the ignition power circuit and provides power the the big brown orange when the relay is active The second thinest brown orange (next to the big one) goes and powers some of you sensors. The thinest brown orange and the blue red both go to the ECU to activate the relay.

If both the large wires going to the relay have power to them, it means that the relay is working and activated. But Bowie69 has done a number of these conversions and knows a lot more than me about how to wire them in.

I like ones that look like they came from the factory that way. This is the best I have seen. He even extended the chassis 10 inches to get the wheel base looking right.

You have obviously done it a few times and have worked out a way that suits you. We will leave it at that.

There 40 wires going to the ECU and you have to figure them all out to fit them into a pre-EFI system. You have the problem with it requiring a electronic speed signal from a transducer to know when it is stopped to adjust idle and when it is moving to cut the injectors under deceleration. If you grab a wiring loom from an EFI car you will have all things not related to the EFI system integrated into the wiring loom that is not directly related to the EFI system and you have to get rid of them. Then you have the issue of whether the wiring loom as O2 sensors wired in or not that you have to pull out. Then change the tune resistor to suit a non-cat vehicle. Then there are the wires to do with controlling the air-con, heated window demisters, etc, that you need to get rid of. Wires to connect for the coil, check engine light, fuel pump relays, main relays, Ignition supply, battery supply, speed transducer, etc, etc. There is also the issue of them using a number of black wires for anti-theft reasons, so you cannot work out what they are for without stripping the wiring loom. If you are running a manual you need to put a resistor on the transmission signal wire. As already stated, I have just finished this week wiring in the EFI system for a 76 Carbie Rangie and it is certainly not as simple as connecting 5 wires

Little more than a couple of wires. I am just in the process of changing a carbie 76 to a 14CUX rangie system. Even with the full EFI wiring loom it is still reasonably complex and time consuming.

Replacing the seals on the steering box is reasonably straight forward. I am not sure why you would replace a box just because the seals are leaking.

I got a large brass "T" piece that had 3 female threaded outlets. Then to fit the threaded sections I purchased two barbed ends that would fit the heater hose and one that the temp sender would screw into.

Very few gauges are "accurate". Based on other temp readings In get, the accuracy is reasonable.

I put mine in one of the heater hoses. A lot simpler to get parts to do it and water runs through there all the time, whether or not the thermostat is open

The simple answer is that to fit those tyres you need to trim the rear bottom section of the rear wheel arches. It will not really matter what else you do unless you trim it. The trim is often referred to as a Camel Cut". So do a google search and you will find lots of posts on various forums, etc.

This may answer your question as to the benefits. "With the dual points distributor, the first points set to close "makes" the circuit and will incur any ravages caused by a small amount of arcing when closing. The last points set to open "breaks" the circuit and will incur any ravages caused by a small amount of arcing when opening. Since the make and break functions are done by different contact sets, the two sets of points share the wear and each will therefore wear less with time, causing less variation of dwell and timing, and it can run longer between required adjustment or points replacement. Also the two contact sets can share the electrical current load most of the time, so there can be less heating of the contacts and/or rubbing foot. This reduction of running heat leads to less wear on the rubbing foot as well as the contacts. This may be even more important if you also install a high output ignition coil which draws more current, which may noticeably shorten the life of single points. If the points may last roughly twice as long in service (and they do), it may not be such an increased expense to replace two sets of points instead of one. The reduced labor or inconvenience may save considerably on cost and/or tinkering time. "

As it is a point distributor it would require one. What ever the manufacturer may describe it as, if it has points it is not really "electronic".

Ballast resistors are only generally required on ignition systems that still run points. The higher the voltage across the points the more they will ark out and pit. It is rare to find a resistor on an electronic ignition system. So if you are upgrading to electronic, ditch the resistor and use a coil that is designed to run on 12 volts rather than 9 volts. That is all the resistor does, drops the voltage to the coil and they all do it by the same amount. So you can basically use and make or model.

You only need the fans at a temp above when the thermostat is fully open. So any discussion about the thermostat and position of the fan switch is largely irrelevant. The people above appear to believe that a motor generates the same amount of heat whether it is at idle or pulling 4 ton up a hill. Any logic will tell you that this is not true. So if the coolant is going into the engine at idle at 85C it will come out only slightly hotter. If I am pulling 4 ton up a hill the coolant will come out a lot hotter. So if you have your fans switching on based on the temp the coolant is going into the motor the fans will switch on when the top of the motor is quite cool at idle when you don't need them on and may not switch on when the thing is under heavy load when you need the motor's temp under control. It is the top end of the motor (heads, etc) that are more prone to issues with heat. Too much heat in the top also affects fuel economy, power, etc. This is why all your temp sensors are in the top of the motor. Having the temp sensor in the bottom radiator hose will not, and cannot, control the temp in the top end of your engine as well as one place near the coolant outlet of the engine. But then again every car manufacturer in the world could be wrong and you guys could be right.

Look at cars built with thermo fans as standard. Check whether the sensor is on the inward side of the radiator or the outbound. It goes in the top hose for a very good reason. It is the motor that heats the water. The harder the motor is worked the more it heats the water as it goes through the motor. Therefore when the motor is working hard I actually need cooler water entering it than when it is sitting at idle. So I want the coolant to be cooled when it is coming out of the motor hotter than I want. What temp it goes in at is largely irrelevant except how much it is heated as it goes through the motor.