p76rangie

Just did some checking on the RAVE CD and the orange wire was not listed until 92. Prior to this is was brown all the way through from the battery. So if you have a 91 or earlier you may want to check the calibre of the wiring yourself as my posts above may or may not apply.

If you take off the lower part of the dash under the steering wheel. Then look at the wires running up the steering column to the ignition switch area. You will see two brown wires, one thicker than the other. The thick one is the size of the wire that use to run in the old classics without half the electronic/electrical demands of the later ones. Now follow this thicker brown wire towards the firewall and you will find a connecting plug. You will notice that on the other side of the plug the brown wire connects to an orange wire with a brown stripe. This orange wire is a lot lighter gauge than the brown one, yet it is the one suppling all the power to run your car, lights, etc, etc. At the battery end you should find two wires connected to the positive side of the battery. One goes to the starter motor, there other disappears into a woven looking covering. If you pull back the woven covering you will notice that the thick wire that connects to the battery splits into a lot of smaller brown wires. One of those wires becomes the orange wire, the rest go to power the various relays in the car. I did not disconnect any of the standard wiring. I just ran a wire directly from the battery and tapped it into the thick brown wire just under the steering column. I did not break the brown wire and it still gets power through the orange one as well. I effectively just added a booster cable.

This is a little bit of a long story, but I will try to keep it brief. Out off-roading on the weekend. Was is situations where the oil temp got relatively high due to working the motor. The low oil pressure light flashed on a couple of times. My old oil pressure gauge had been playing up for a while and decided to go buy another one. The one I got was digital. The new gauge showed oil pressure less than what I was expecting for a near new motor. At night I went for a drive and the pressure was reading even lower. But when I switched the headlights off the pressure rose by 6 psi. This got me curious. After a bit of checking I found that the voltage in at my gauges was over 1 volt lower than at the battery with the lights off and went even lower when the lights were on. Obviously the new oil gauge was voltage sensitive. First I thought it was a bad earth, so I earthed the multimeter directly back to the battery and basically there was no change. So it had to be the power supply rather than the earth. On the pre-EFI Rangies there was a reasonably thick brown power wire from the battery to the ignition. The same thick brown wire appears at the ignition switch end of the my 93 and a very thick wire was at the battery end. But checking the wiring in between revealed a relatively thin wire between the two. So I upgraded this wire to one of similar specs or above the old Rangies. This wire provides the power to the ignition, therefore the lack of voltage affects everything that runs off the ignition power without a relay. This includes the ECU's, ignition coil, electronic ignition, MAF unit, radio, etc, etc. I have always had an issue with my Rangie idling too low. I have tried many things to correct this to no avail. With the old and new motor I had an annoying slight miss at idle that I had never been able to fix. By upgrading the power supply so that all the components now get better voltage I have found the car now idles at the correct speed, the miss is gone, the pressure pump for the ABS now takes half the time to get to pressure, the car seems to have more power and runs smoother, the stereo has more output, dash lights are brighter, etc, etc. All this from upgrading one wire. As this was such an obscure thing with significant benefits I thought I would share. I also ditched the carp setup for the headlights and put relays in to run them directly from the battery. I can now see a lot lot better at night.

A small number of 2 doors were made primarily for France due to some tax concessions on 2 doors.

Did not happen until 1986. Well after 2 doors were made All 2 doors had the vertical grill Change when went from 2 door to 4 door Did not happen until late 80's/early 90's Late 8-'s 4 door Late 80's 4 door Only real change was with softdash Late 80's went went to 5 speed and ZF auto Original 2 door rear wiper was an option with wiper motor in middle. Later ones had the motor fitted off to one side Again happened in 1986 when started to export to US and was a requirement for that market The exception the the above answers was the limited edition CSK 2 door that was made well after the 2 door was the standard rangie..

I am building a ute out of a 2 door. The original vehicle was a 76 and I bought a parts vehicle that was a 82. I have found very little differences between the 2. The only differences related to the pedal box panel in the firewall and items related to the lower dash.

Those switches are only rated at 100 amps. Not really enough for a winch.

I believe that you are looking at the issue the wrong way. The winch control does two things, it connects the positive to active the right solenoids to drive the winch in the right direction and it also connects up the earth for the solenoids. If you want the winch to be inactive, you simply disconnect the earth wire to the controls and put it through a small relay operated by a switch on the dash. So with this switched off there is no way the winch will operate. Instead of a winch control I operate a switch on the front bullbar and a switch on the dash. The earth relay/switch stops these winch switches operating the winch accidently. There is no need to put a switch on the main power cable to the winch to stop it from operating.

Outside the exposed hinges, you need to check the location of the small turning indicator located in the panel. They kept on moving depending on the year.

The engine does not have to come out. You have to remove the radiator and unbolt the air-con condenser (not remove) but not undo the air-con pressure lines.

It is not that hard. It is something you can do in a day. You do not have to change anything on the steering shaft, but there are a few things to need to loosen off and retighten once the lift is completed. You can get longer brake lines or simply move the mounting points for the lines. Just remember that a spring lift does not allow bigger tyres unless you stuff up your articulation. A body lift is the only way to get bigger tyres under it and still get full axle movement. If you want the ultimate body lift kit you buy one of these. I think it is over engineered though. http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/contents/en-us/d623.html#p291 Or cheaper on Ebay if you hurry http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Body-Lift-Kit-2-inch-Range-Rover-Discovery-White-Tiger-/300578970025?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45fbe719a9#ht_500wt_1156 About what tyre size you can fit with what, you should read this as well http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/contents/en-us/d713.html

If you are out on the open road the temp that a fan cuts in will have little affect. That is, a fan should not come on at over 50mph as it will have little or no impact on cooling. I have found that with a 80C thermostat on a hot day my Rangie sits on around 90C and on cool days it sits right on 80C. 80C is only where the thermostat starts to open, not where it is fully opened. So I have set my thermo fans to come in around 93 or 94C. This is around the same temp that the Viscous fan would cut in anyhow. The final stage of cooling are the standard factory electric fans behind the grill. Factory setting is for these to cut in a bit below 100C. In regard to oil temp, the oil cooler does not have a thermostat on it so it is putting the oil through cold water in the radiator all the time. During colder months my oil temp won't get above 50C. In the warmer months it will sit around 70C but can go above 90C when working the motor. It should also be noted that based on the location of temp senders, the water temp is taken at its hottest just before it goes to the radiator and the oil temp is taken after its left the sump but before it goes through the cooler and then the motor. So the water temp in the majority of the motor is likely to be less that the temp stated and the oil temp could be hotter or colder in the actual motor.

The Rover V8 has not really changed since its inception. If anything it has become less heat tolerant with the thinner walls introduced with the 3.9 onwards. The older motors use to run a 78 to 83C thermostat. This was considered ideal. The higher temperature thermostats introduced on later models were only a result of EPA laws. They have nothing to do with the better running of the motor only vapourising the fuel more so that less unburnt fuel goes out the exhaust. I don't think anyone will try to argue that the later cams, etc, introduced for EPA and fuel economy reasons actually improved the performance or longevity of the motor. The problem with running a cooler thermostat on EFI motors is that the ECU expects a hotter engine and can pump more fuel in if it thinks the motor is still warming up. So you should not go below a low 8o'sC thermostat in EFI motors.

Can you explain?

Probably better fitting 235/85/16 as they a couple of mm taller but not wide enough to cause too many issues hitting the inside or outside of the inner guard. I would think that 265 tyres would also be getting a bit wide for standard width rims. You will have to do a "camel cut" to the lower rear wheel arch still. Here are my Rangie 235/85/16 tyres fitted to my wifes D1 with no lift, but a camel cut in the rear

It would appear that those that disagree with me have actually had the issue I was raising.

You will always have problems tuning a open loop (non-computer controlled) LPG system. Based on experience you cannot tune it for all conditions so everything is a compromise. On a hot day it will run rich, on a cold day it will run lean. Up in the mountains it will run lean. If you have it running rich it loses power, if you have it lean it loses power. Also remember that 99.9% of people fitting LPG to the vehicles do it to save money. Therefore they do not want to spend money in doing it. As a consequence, virtually all LPG systems are cheaply made and are certainly not refined. A closed loop system will keep the thing in tune no matter where you are driving.

Look at what kit they sell for a D1 compared to a D2 here: http://www.v8engines.com/faq-lpg.htm http://www.range-rov.com.au/21.html You can read bottom paragraph of this http://www.amrautos.co.uk/Range-Rover.htm

Weak mixture cuts flame speed to the extent that there is a flame path back into the manifold at overlap around tdc of the exhaust stroke. Therefore the backfire will usually occur when de-accelerating. A weak mixture also occurs when the unburnt fuel left in the cylinder is ignited by the second spark. Rover V8's are notorious for backfiring on LPG when running coil packs. Unlike some other parts of the world, here LPG systems can only be fitted by licensed operators. They of course have to warrant their installations and repair any damage that may occur from a questionable installation. The risk of backfire on a coilpack Rover V8 is high enough that you would find it extremely difficult to find someone prepared to fit a single point system to the later Rover V8s. They will only fit injected systems.

From my understanding, megajolt does not use a distributor but uses coil packs like on the later GEMS motors. This makes them unsuitable for single point LPG systems. As the sparkplug in each cylinder is fired when not required (with 2 coils each cylinder is fired 4 times per cycle instead of once with a distributor system) it fires often when the intake valve is open. This can ignite the LPG in the intake manifold and cause a bad backfire. This is why most reputable shops will only fit injected LPG systems to these types of motors. I am not saying that it will happen all the time and some people get away with it not happening at all. However, the risk of a backfire is many times higher if you run a single point LPG systems on such a motor. The damage that a backfire can cause is usually not worth the risk.

I did double check the RAVE CD and there is no mention of a pressure bleeder except for getting the fluid into the reservoir more easily. I have bleed brakes on non-ABS Rangies and Series Landrovers many times over the last couple of decades and found my current ABS Classic the easiest of the them all to bleed as you don't have to pump brakes or anything like that. You just have to turn the ignition on and hold the brake pedal down and the ABS pump just pushes the fluid out whatever nipple you have undone at the time.

I have found that too much power can cause different issues. I have a strong ignition system and I find that when I loose a plug, and the spark can't go there, it starts to jump to the next lead within the distributor cap and causes a worse situation with two cylinders misfiring rather than one.

LPG does not really need different gaps to standard with any standard Rangie electronic ignition system. You can go one stage colder plug if you like, but would not muck around with the gaps. For a dual fuel car you should set your timing up around 10 to 12 degrees BTDC. It is advisable to also get your distributor regraphed for LPG as well.

Are you talking about an ABS system? A pressure bleeder is not specified or required for an ABS system.

The pump is the pressure bleeder. They are very simple to bleed, just follow the procedure set out in the RAVE CD.