p76rangie

Top hose is the recommended position. Cooling thermostat = top hose. Temp gauge sensor = top hose. ECU temp sensor = top hose. Overheat switch to run air-con fans = top hose. Every temp sensor or device on your motor operates on the water temp coming out of the motor. It is the correct position for such sensors and the fan switch.

Might be easier to replace the whole chassis.

Undoing one at a time may make it a little difficult. Unbolt one side at a time will make it a little easier. You will also find that it is only the lower one that will be a bit flattened. You can usually get away with no new ones and simply swap the rubbers top to bottom.

This will probably be the last update for a while as the stuff now is just straight Range Rover reassembly. So it is nothing special and not worth posting about. The only mod left is the roof, even though all the wiring will be a custom job. So here are the photos of the rear of the cab finished (except for filling and painting the pop rivet spots that you can see on the outside).

I will attempt to explain this for you. A 10% change in compression ratios on a rover V8 will change the torque by around 5%. Higher the compression ratio the more power the motor will produce and the better the fuel economy will be. Lower the compression ratio makes both these worse. Rover V8's came out in a 9.35 and 8.13 compression ratio version. Motors do not like much below 8.0 unless you are planning to super or turbo charge it. The compression ratio is calculated by dividing the swept volume of the cylinder, plus the volume of the combustion area into the combustion area. The combustion area varies with the various rover V8s and the compression ratios. But they are around 50CC. The change in heads to cater for the composite gasket was 8cc or 16% of the combustion area. Basic maths will tell you that if you change the combustion area by 16%, the compression ratio will change by a slightly less percentage, say 15%. So if you run a composite gasket on a motor with a 9.35 ratio that should have a tin gasket you will drop the compression ratio to around 8.0. The motor can still operate at this compression ratio even though your power, torque, and fuel economy will reduce. But if you do the same thing to a 8.13 motor your compression ratio will drop to around 6.9 and it runs like a dog. Therefore I will come back to my original statement, that is, if you swap gaskets on a high compression motor you will get away with it. You may or may not notice the change in power (depending on the reason you had the heads off in the first place). Do it on a low compression motor and you will certainly notice it. I had a low compression 4.6 that had tin gasket heads on it but had composite gaskets. I was far from impressed with the power. The only change I made was to change the heads over to the correct ones (only difference is that they are 40 thou shaved) and the difference in power was VERY noticeable.

If they are 10 bolt heads they are suppose to have composite gaskets. During the 3.9 production is when they changed over from tin to composite. The earlier 3.9 heads were still 14 bolt heads, but the later 10 bolt heads had been shaved by 40 thou.

Been down that path and on a low compression motor you really do notice it. The difference between tin and composite is actually 30 thou. Due to the shape of the combustion chamber, Land Rover shaved the heads by 40 thou when they fitted composite gaskets. I do not think that you will find anyone that will say that 40 thou shave of the heads is not going to change your compression ratio noticeably.

Switching from tin to composite will drop your compression ratio by around 15%. So it makes a high compression motor a low compression type and it makes a low compression motor useless.

Here is a video/slideshow on my work over the last 2 years on my ute.

You have carp in your governor. Sometimes changing your oil and filter will help clear it up after a few drives. Otherwise your up for at least dropping the transfer case to get to it and clean it manually.

I had a rebuilt one and I think I still have it. The problem with these is working out whether they are still any good or not. I had 5 of them sitting around so I built a test rig to see if they were any good or not.

They are NOT meant to slide. You applied too much pressure to the column while you were getting the unis off. The collapsable part of the column has a plastic pin it it that holds it together until you have an accident, then the pin shears. By pulling on it you have sheared the pin. I did the same thing when I first attempted to get those unis off. I now use a screw in the split on the uni (where the bolt goes through) to separate the uni before trying to remove it. To fix my steering column I found where the shear pin was suppose to be and replaced it with a bit of a plastic knitting needle the same diameter. http://www.geoffrey-...ering/index.htm From Range Rover workshop manual "CAUTION: The steering column is of a ‘safety’ type and incorporates shear pins. Therefore do not impart shock loads to the steering column at any time."

I love your figures. Most authorities quote that the engine fan pulls between 1/4 and 1/2 hp. This means that in 12 volts it would require between 15 and 30 amps. My electric fans pull around 30 amps EACH at start and then run at 15 to 20 amps each. So they are producing over 1/2hp. But then we get down to the efficiency of various fan designs, or whether one fan at the centre cools better or worse than 2 fans covering most of the radiator surface area. Also whether a fan sitting a couple of inches away with a loose fitting cowling is better that two fans sitting millimetres away. etc, etc. A viscous fan is designed to lock up when the engine is hot enough to require it. Yes it does spin other times, only because the design does not allow for it to completely disengage. So when they are required, and engaged, they will largely change speed with the engine. Even at idle you will hear the fan start to roar when it engages. It does not matter what it does when the engine is not hot enough to require it and I would say that you have a faulty fan if it is engaging at 2,000 rpms when the engine is not hot. Below are the fans I use. For those without a convertor, they are twin 13.2 inch fans

It is often a sign of the car being fitted with a roof rack, but can also simply happen over time.

I think you will find that on a viscous unit it is only the temp that engages or disengages it. The airflow while engaged is determined by how many revs the engine is doing. As with the airflow with electric fans, you are making the common mistake of assuming they are all similar, that could not be further from the truth. Then you have all the issues on how people wire them up and the speed they will produce, etc, etc.

Can you please supply these figures. What electric fans are you using the airflow data from? At what revs are you quoting the airflow for the viscous unit. A viscous running at 5,000rpm will shift more air than a good set of twin electric fans. At 2,000 to 2,500 rpms my electric fans pull more air than a viscous. There are lies, damn lies, and statistics.

I have had electric fans fitted to Rangies for over 10 years and find them excellent. They are great for slow work where the motor will most likely get hot. That is, I know that they will always pull the maximum air no matter what revs the motor is doing. Having dual fans also gives me a backup if one fails. I have always ran the thermostat in the top hose. This is the same location as your temp gauge and the factory switch to turn the air-con fans on when the motor gets too hot. Use to have a lot of temp issues before I fitted them and have had known since. I am not sure what the oil cooler in the radiator has to do with anything. It is the best place for the oil cooler and works a lot better than an air operated one. I would not run a Rover V8 without an oil cooler as the oil temp shoots up when you start working the motor.

Yes, but requires specialised equipment and skills. Use to be someone here locally that use to rebuild them but not sure whether they are around anymore.

The adjustment should only be made with the steering set at the straight ahead (centre) position. There is a built in slop at either left or right. The easiest way to adjust it is to turn the input shaft slightly backwards and forwards by hand while watching the output shaft. Adjust until any movement in the input shaft results in a movement in the output shaft. As stated above, make sure you do not over adjust it and cause a tight spot.

If the track road is one solid bar you will need one LH and one RH. If it has a small bar section at one end as well as the main bar you need 2 RH ones.

Only use poly bushes if you don't use the Disco in the dirt. They will not last long with mud in them as they are not sealed like genuine stuff and the mud acts like sandpaper. Never use poly bushes in the shocks as they don't allow enough movement and you can break the shock.

Are you sure it is tappet noise? Tappet noise will usually be worse when the engine has just started, not after it has warmed up. It sounds like you put a secondhand motor in it. What do you know about it. Noises after it warms up often means issues with the motor, eg, slipped liners, worn rockers, etc.

So you are saying that putting 500 amps through a solenoid design for that amperage has a higher chance of failure than putting 500 amps through a manual cutoff only rated at 100 amps. I would put my money on melting the 100 amp cutoff first.

You would have to weld two solenoids together for this to be true. You are talking a very rare for one to do it, the odds for two doing it at the same time is very remote.

I am not sure why people insist on cutting the main power to the winch to stop it from working. Cutting the power or earth to the solenoids will have exactly the same effect and requires only simple light weight wiring changes.