p76rangie

You cannot buy the resistors anymore, only aftermarket ones are available. The aftermarket ones are just made from resistors that you can buy in you local electronics store, so you can make them yourself. You need a 2.0 ohm, 1.5 ohm, and 0.5 ohm resistors. No real need to pull your dash apart as you only need to unplug the old resistor wiring under your dash and plug in your made one. To find diagrams of how to make, do a google search on PRC8010G or PRC8010

I did not have a thread on this site. The thread was on another site that I posted the link for, however, people indicated they could not see the photos there, so I posted them here.

82 Rangies converted to 4 doors are not particularly rare. Had one a couple of years back, took the motor and sold the rest for $300. The value of the Rangie is more about the previous owner than the actual value of the car.

Then the painting and reassembly and that is where I am up to at the moment.

After 15 years as a ute it was showing the weak points, so reinforced the floor and side.

Then start with the rust

Will continue with some more photos later

More mechanicals

Repainted each part as it goes back on. Chassis in POR, body parts in 2 pack Of course I am also rebuilding ALL the mechanicals as I go

For those that can't see the link, below is a brief overview This is the ute I purchased And another 2 door for parts Stripped it back to each nut and bolt Have stripped each part back to bare metal as I have redone it

After spending the last few months chasing rust in my 2 door ute project, I am glad that mine was in a lot better state that the one in the photos above. Based on the rust in the wings, I will bet that where the wings bolt to the firewall is also gone. I would let it go to god and find a better one. http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/f8/rangie-ute-pickup-project-47802/

I have a 76 and it has the rear wiper. I am pretty sure they all had them. Virtually all the rangies had door mirrors, but from what I can figure out they must have been added later at dealer, etc. It is hard to find a common mirror design used, but the older 2 doors appeared to be reasonably similar.

A bullbar is pretty essential if you go offroad, but agree with the comments above you those driving around town

This is one of the best tray conversions I have ever seen. They stretched the chassis and it looks like something that came off the production line.

Seeing that the motor is not running, I assume that you are doing the compression tests cold. If so, the figures do not mean much outside it still has enough compression to run. So fire it up and then re-test.

You could just run it on carbies or an aftermarket EFI system

Who is des hamil? Who is Miss Inform and what is her first name?

Here are some photos of superchargers on Rangies. One is of a 3.5 that was supercharged 35 years ago and one is of a 4.0 that is putting out over 300hp.

Obviously you don't know. The 3.9 came with both 14 bolt heads (Tin gaskets) in its early years and 10 bolt heads (Composite gaskets) in its later years. The 10 bolt heads are the same as you will find on the 4.0 and the 4.6

I am not sure why you keep on bringing it up then. What are 3.9 heads anyway, they are possibly the same as 4.6 heads.

I can buy a new block from Land Rover for half that money, so my statement stands.

Obviously you have never driven a low comp motor with Composite gasket head gaskets then. It makes about a 15% difference on your compression ratio. So if you have a high comp motor it will bring it down to just below a low comp one. But if you have a low comp, it doesn't drive well. The heads are actually 40 thou thinner, not 28.

You would want to hope that none of that metal made its way into the motor. But what you are suggesting as a fault would break the fins, they look ground down.

I would up bolt the top of the radiator and move it back towards the motor a little. Then look into the gap between the radiator and the aircon condenser. Quite often a lot of carp gets trapped in there that stops air going through the radiator.

The only way to confirm it is a liner is to pull the heads off. They are often not that noticeable and you have to look very closely. As long as the block is not cracked behind the sleeve, there is probably no reason that you could not keep on driving it for years. My Land Rover mechanic has bought a number of Land Rovers with slipped liners and has continued to drive them for many years. It is more the annoyance of the noise or if the block is also cracked and is letting in coolant. A disco I bought had 3 slipped liners and the only thing that stopped me driving it was the noise. It now has a brand new 4.6 block in it and I am very happy.