p76rangie

The usual Toyota conversion for a Rangie is just to change the centre, not the entire housing. How is there a difference in shock loading a 35 compared to a 29. Shock loading usual occurs when a wheel lifts off the ground and spins due to lack of traction. A 29 will spin up quicker than a 35 and therefore will have more speed when the grip happens. A 35 due to its larger diameter will have a lot more torque behind it when it hits the ground again and will therefore not stop (shock) as easily as a 29. As the motor and power has not changed, there is no more power being applied to the wheel when the shock occurs. Most people serious enough to have 35's have diff locks and therefore shock loading is greatly reduced. But if you change your diff ratio to 4.11's due to 35's then the motor can supply a lot more leverage to the axles and tends to break the axles rather than the diff. Actually breaking a diff will usually be the result of spinning wheels and the spider gears lock up and break or from flex in the diff carrier causing the pinion to move further out in the crownwheel teeth. A good diff lock fixes both these issues without the hassle of going to Toyota diffs.

As you only change the centre the track does not change. The range of ratios is good when playing with different size wheels. but the available rover ratios of 3.54 and 4.11 do cater for most tyre sizes up to 35 inch. The increase in strength is really only of significant benefit if you are increasing the power of the motor considerably.

The query being raised was that he had a new cam and new rhodes lifters and if he changed the lifters would he have to replace the cam. The answer is simple, he can change the lifters without changing the cam.

Of course you can. New cam = new lifters, NOT new lifters = new cam

Their prices appear to be very good. Hardly worth mucking around building them yourself. However, the freight on the larger bits might increase the cost.

http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

They used more like a rubberised tape between the aluminum and steel sections so it did not compress as much as silicon. I think the idea would be to let the silicon go off before tightening the bolts/screws fully and that way it will not squeeze out. A lot of rangie doors corrode in the bottom corners. This is from the steel door frame coming into contact with the aluminum door skins.

By the rapidness of the noise it does not sound like an issue with just one piston. It really sounds like the lifters have not pumped up, but not sure why they would go down if you only took off the inlet manifold. However, those bearings show that there has been some **** flowing in the oil, so it could have blocked the lifters. It really couldn't be an exhaust leak if it does it turning it over with the spark plugs out.

Anywhere where an aluminum touches steel you require a good thick sealer that will stop the aluminum touching steel. If you don't it will corrode the aluminum. EG roof, and panels touching the inner frame or rear taillight corners touching the rear quarters, etc. Between parts of the inner frame like the rear section, firewall touching the main frame, or parts of the floor you only need a sealer to stop water getting in. The parts will still touch each other where to tighten bolts and squeeze the sealant out, but this is OK for steel to steel.

I disconnected mine for a little while when I thought I had a blockage in it. I have a oil temp gauge and I found that the oil ran a lot hotter without it. On my previous Rangie I had an external cooler and I can tell you that the radiator one is a lot more effective in keeping the oil cool.

The best oil cooler is if you can get one of the external aluminum auto transmission coolers off the latter rangies. They look similar to a radiator and about the same width, but only a few inches high. You can also purchase aftermarket universal coolers that look similar. http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/PFZ000051G.cfm http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/FTC5360G.cfm http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/PFZ100010G.cfm

It is part of the radiator, but you can fit a separate unit instead

That is about right if you have to do it. Make sure it is chocked on both sides of the wheels and have a backup in place (like spare wheel, etc) in case it falls. The problem when pulling the rear end out you also have the issue as to where to put the stands. I the case of this job in this thread, I would just try to plan in differently and not try to do too much at one time. For example, you can remove the diff centre and put the exhaust in with the wheels still on. Then do the hubs later where you do not have to be under the vehicle.

And all the guys that have been killed with them falling off thought exactly the same thing. I suppose the handbrake was holding it in place as there does not appear to be any chocks at the rear of the front wheels. http://www.cdph.ca.gov/programs/ohb-face/Documents/falling.pdf The 3 tonne rating is for the pair, not each stand and you would have well over a tonne on them.

Not a good idea working under a vehicle just sitting on stands. A few people have been killed that way.

The 84 Rangie when I bought it had a 4.4 V8 from a Leyland P76. Motor looked the same as a Rover V8 except the block was slightly higher due to the longer stroke.

I have thrown most of them out as I don't have the storage space. I currently have two good ones at the moment, one for the Ute and one as a spare. I am from Melbourne Australia. A reasonably wet climate, but we don't put salt on the roads. Even though I have had to rebuild sills, floors, firewalls, etc due to rust, I have only ever replaced the rear section and not rebuilt any. So I am sorry that I am not much help to you. Here, they are broken up just for parts as it is a lot cheaper usually to buy a complete Rangie than what you will pay for parts. My previous rangie was a 84 in perfect nick, but by the time I pulled all the good running gear out of it for my new 93, it was not worth anything so I pulled it apart for parts. Previously bought a 86 just for parts, bought a 82 4 door just for the motor, have the 76 ute and bought a 82 2 door for parts for the ute. Most of the main structure of all these simply went to scrap metal as I had no room. Here are the grandkids helping pull apart the 84, you can see the condition of the rear.

Up to 1986 the frames of Range Rovers were all bolted together. When they started exporting to the USA in 1986 they were required to weld the frames together. You can get a rear end from a later model classic (post 1986) and just drill the bolt holes and still fit it.

The whole rear frame just unbolts. The easiest way is just find a replacement and bolt it in.

We have had a product called polyairs for decades, firestone copied them. They have been used in all sorts of conditions and I am not aware of any being damaged by the springs. See ployair reds in the this link http://www.polyair.com.au/

The bracket is that rubber coated metal thing wrapped around the motor in your photo.

Problem with your suggestions are that the shock mounts are not really designed to take the weight of the car. Probably better off with something like this http://www.firestoneindustrial.com/riderite/products/crinfo.shtml

65mm box tube fits very well. It is cheap and can double as rock sliders.

They had large rivets in them, so you should be able to find a rivet that suits the holes there.

If the holes are only where the pop rivets were, why do you want a new one? Are you not just going to pop rivet the floor back in?