p76rangie

You will find that "lift" springs are no longer extended than standard springs. Therefore you should run standard length shocks unless you want them to dislocate.

The kickdown cable controls both changing up and changing down. You backing off the power releases the cable and allows it to change up. Lengthening the adjustment will have the same impact and allows it to change up earlier.

The different transfer case only changes high range, not low range. So if it is more power off road that you need it will not give it to you. You will need to change diff ratios instead.

Tyres are borderline as to whether to change ratios or not. I would not bother. Tyres have nothing to do with it overrevving before changing gears.

Just adjust your kickdown cable so the thing changes gears at the right time. It sounds like you have it too tight at the moment and it needs to be slackened off a bit. Go to the auto store and buy a cheap tacho, it will at least tell you whether it is really over revving or not.

Up around 10 to 12 BTDC is fine for a combination of LPG and petrol. How far after that will depend on the octane of the petrol you run. The higher the octane the higher the advance you can run.

Sorry, Here is the right link

Just went out for a relatively easy run on Saturday, But you can see how we clean the cars at the end of the day. http://www.youtube.com/my_videos?feature=mhee

I think you are missing the point. I am not talking about the porch light helping you see into the distance. What I am suggesting is that turning it off will help you see better into the distance. Lights on the roof placed forward like the disco pictured in the previous post will light up the bonnet and windscreen just like the porch light will light up around you. As the foreground is lighter it will make it harder to see into the distance as yours eyes will adjust to the amount of light in the foreground. Just like using the fog lights below the front bumper will actually make it more difficult to see into the distance as they light up the foreground. I think you will find that most rally drivers will disagree with your assumption that they do not need to see the road well. The aerodynamic argument also does not hold water as they will make up large fiberglass mounts that sit above the bonnet line to mount the driving lights in.

Not attempting to get stupid, just giving the facts. Stand on your front or rear porch at night with the porch light above or behind your head. Compare how far you can see into the distance with the porch light on and off. Bet you will see further with it off. Your pupils will adjust to the immediate light around you. They will adjust to the brighter light near you and therefore will not be correct for seeing longer distances into the dark. So if you are attempting to see longer distances at night you do not want things lit up in the foreground. How many rally cars do you see with lights on their roof. These guys are interested in seeing well into the distance at high speed. The trucks here in Oz do very long distances at night and I have never seen one with lights on the roof. But that is assuming that you are talking about semi-trailer type trucks and not F100's. This is my daughter's truck. 65 ton fully loaded.

So what you are saying that with the roof lights on you could not read your watch or see other things on the bonnet, or even worse something on the outside of the windscreen.

Love the matching green tyre valve covers.

All lights on the roof do is light up the bonnet and foreground and make it harder to see into the distance. Alright for off-road where you are not interested in seeing a long way, but pretty useless on the road. If you want to upgrade your lighting just put a couple of descent HID driving lights up front. The old Cibie Oscars are reasonably good and you get one in a spread beam and one in a spot for the best of both worlds.

Is your car standard height or lifted. A spring lift will always give the symptoms that you have.

Nope, still can't see them

Your link keeps on coming up with this when I go into it. "Error Occurred Sorry, an error occurred. If you are unsure on how to use a feature, or don't know why you got this error message, try looking through the help files for more information. [#107140] Sorry, but you do not have permission to use this feature. If you are not logged in, you may do so using the form below if available."

I had to drag mine out today to do some work to the garage. So here are some pics of where it is up to.

Wasn't able to see the photos either. I don't restore them, I cut them up.

I would take it back for a refund then. I am not going to argue with you anymore. It is a simple thing for people to crawl underneath and have a look if they are really interested.

And yes there is one in the auto bell housing as well.

Most "spring lift" springs are not much longer than standard and therefore standard shocks are fine.

Who told you that. I have a D1 and it certainly has a wading plug hole. The photo for this thread is also that of a wading plug hole.

I had already purchased the paint and the colour I am using is a Ford colour called Bionic Blue. It is a bit brighter than the Tuscan Blue, but close enough to get a reasonable idea of how it will look.

What my ute will look like when finally finished thanks to your photo posted.

I just like the photo of the 2 door. It is very close to the colour that I will be painting my 2 door Ute. I did not realise that I was painting it an original colour. The photo has also given me an indication of what it will look like. This is a photo of the colour I will be painting it.