heath robinson

The exhaust hangers are a good idea. The door frames I'm undecided about, as I'd have to repair them a lot, and might just get another set of doors, and then do them Maybe just swap the door skins onto galvanised frames, then repair the old frames and fit 'em with new skins and sell them. That way I don't have to paint them. The bonnet seems like a nightmare to un-frame! Maybe when I get the door frames done. Let me know about the brackets, that sounds great.

Thanks Guys, that's a good list. Seatbox isn't a problem, as I'm loosing the toolbox for a tank, and tthe battery box needs doing anyway. Mr Farmer (I'm not sure that I can call you just Orgasmic and keep a straight face), which bits do you have? I'd definitely be interested. The inner arches are pretty immaculate, and the turrets are new from Gwyn . Cackshifter, I'm struggling to picture which bit you mean. The brain's a little slow today. The weekend seems to be exactng some kind of pennance... Cheers, Jake

Hi. I have a growing pile of bits ready to go to be galv'd, so I thought I'd ask if anyone has come up with a definitive list of bits that would benefit from galvanising. I already have all the following, all zincish and shiny - Chassis Crossmember Steering guard Body cappings Bumper Gwyn's suspension goodies And so far I have these in the pile to be dipped - Bulkhead Tankguard Military rear bumperettes Bracket supports NRC4661 and NRC5478 Body mounting brackets NRC7053 Outrigger rear body brackets LR514BM (these last two are from memory, I need to check in the lockup.) Rocksliders (although they're not yet welded up...) Tub crossmembers (MUC8949) Recovery ring NRC5396 and backing plate 562756 JATE rings (Need two more though) I can't remeber if the sill channels etc are already galvanised, and I need to get the body stay centres MRC6019, and have them done too. I'm not sure about doing the door frames yet, as I might just get some better doors. Can anyone think of anything else for a 110 pickup? I know there's the bulkhead supports, but I don't have them yet, or even know their number. I need to look at the parts book next time I'm at dad's. There are obviously some non-essentials in there, but it's really the bog-standard bits I'm worried about, I don't want to go to all this trouble, and then find that there's something I've left out. I might also try to find a tank-guard for the secondary tank, as I'm intending to fit an lpg doughnut at the back. Will a 90 one fit? I thought this might make a useful list for anyone going down this path in the future. Cheers Jake

the V8 manual on lpg is far less spendy than a diesel auto. About the equivilent of 30mpg, as opposed to 15-25.

The remote locking problems he's encountered while I've been there have all been fixable, mostly to do with resetting individual windows/sunroof etc.

I have a mechanic mate who constantly buys P38s with what he considers minor electrical gremlins and other issues, fixes them, drives them for a few months, then sells them at a tidy profit. They DO have numerous electrical issues, the suspension DOES go wrong, but you CAN fix it all fairly simply. The diagnostic box is worth it's weight in copper, at least, if not actual gold. The number of really weird faults the crop up, and could never be guessed without plugging it in, are manifold. That said, he almost always has a spare one (P38, not box) about to swap bits with to cross-check exactly what the problem is, and has managed to wreck at least one ECU by trying silly things with his snap-on diagnostic box, like trying to adjust the ride height... don't do that. You break the ecu, and have to drive around with the arse right up, and the nose right down until you get another.

Also, have a look at ukworkshop.co.uk, there's a ton of info on there about 3 phase motors and converters, woodworkers seem to spend more time restoring old machinery, and installing it in unsuitable places, than they do actually woodworking... Although, like this place, their search is pants so use the google inurl:ukworkshop trick.

Nige, look at this guy's page, and maybe drop him a line at motors@minchin.org.uk. He's the 3-phase guru that used to frequent UKWorkshop.co.uk, so maybe mention that's where you were pointed to him from. He's always been exeptionally helpful and knowledgable in the past, and single-to-three-phase shenannigans is his stock in trade.

Tigerseal is an alternative to Sikaflex. Again, it's used for bonding in windscreens. Sticks like carp to a blanket.

the 2450 has grey bits of plastic on the body and a silver nose, the 2400 is just black and silver.

Tough rodents 'round your way!

I've been looking at the sealey cp2450 which for 170 squids seems good. I've read mixed reviews though, which has slightly cooled my ardure. Has anyone used/got one? If Si's experiences are anything to go by, I'm infering that it should probably be good for about 300lbft, which is quite good.

I've seen a series being built by Mid-Cornwall 4x4 with a stainless chassis and bulkhead. I don't know where they got it from, but they said it cost an absolute fortune...

I think it's a case of "why not" rather than "why". I must say, a series truck that rode like a DS, and went like a rice-rocket is an appealling prospect. Don't know how well it'd work in the sticky stuff though...

Thanks guys, I'll give him a bell.

Hi all. I figured this is the best place to ask about synthetic rope. In my case it's not for comp use though, it's to go onto an hydraulic ramsey rhp8 (8000lb pull, surprisingly) on the back of our big Daf 4x4. It'll mostly be used for recovering stuck vans and the like, or doubled up to recover the 7.5 tonners. The winch is being mounted under the hiab, so it'll be well protected from the elements/road muck/mud/UV. This also means I can sling it up through a pulley on the hiab, and use the thing as a proper crane/ropeslide/washingline, which is one of the main reasons for wanting synthetic. Also, I can fit a fair bit more on the drum, I reckon about 200ft, as opposed to 170ft of 10mm steel wire. What size should I be looking at (I'm thinking 10mm should be more than fine), and where sells good rope at a reasonable price? I've searched the forum, but all the pertinent responses seem to be 4 or 5 years old. Winch-it on Ebay seems cheap, and has been recommended in the past, but is there anywhere else I should be looking? Thanks, Jake. As an aside, does anyone know of an aftermarket air freespool for the ramsey? A long shot, methinks, but worth an ask.

Then altering your shock turrets will throw things out of whack. A full +2" kit is designed to go straight onto the truck, with no further modifictions. I don't know if you mean the turrets raise or lower your shock mounting points. Raising your shock mounts by 2" would mean you can fit +2" shocks with standard springs, or +4" shocks with a 2" lift. If you fit matched shocks and springs with a +2" turret, you'd just loose 2" of the shock's downward movement. Lowering your shock turrets by two inches would mean that your shocks would be reaching their closed length before the axles hit their bump stops. That makes them the thing that's stopping the truck's downward travel, and would give a harsh stop, and probably knacker the shocks. I say this assuming that you're not going to use the old 2" spacers. As a tip, the forum's search function is a bit pants, try using google, with "inurl:lr4x4" before your query, eg "inurl:lr4x4 +2 lift kit". Hope that helps, Jake

Are the shocks you're putting on +2"?

Owner of too many torques, laptop-denter of foreheads, waxoiler of cats, bringer of moderation Nige

Thanks, I've ordered plenty. Just wanted to check my ready reckoning wasn't miles out.

That's perfect, thanks. I'm ordering the steel to make a pair of rocksliders myself, just wanted to make sure that I was getting enough.

Hi. Really quick question, can anyone tell me how long a 110 sill is? Thanks, Jake

You're exactly right, a powerful rattly gun applieas enough torque to undo a fuuly tightened wheel nut, in short enough bursts to not spin the wheel when it's in the air. I've never done an empirical test, but I don't really trust ANY of their torque settings on the ones I've used, they don't equate to much more than "Loose, tightish, tight, and bloody tight". They really do make life easier if you can afford one that's manley enough. length of charge is a bit less important if you're only using it occasionally than if you're using it all day long, every day. HTH Jake

Perfect, thanks! It's the second one, which will make life easier. Cheers for that, now all I need is to find a good one for not too much cash. Jake

Hi all. I'm about to drop the truck into a workshop to have it rebuilt, and have been thinking about my bulkhead. I think I'd like to get a replacement to have galvanised before I start, but which bulkhead will I be best off with? The truck is an '84 110, and will have the origional 4-speed 'box in it after the rebuild for a while at least. Will this gearbox fit under a later (santana or r380) tunnel? Does anyone know if a bigger (tr606, t56 or tko500) 'box will fit under either of these? Thanks, Jake