Hybrid_From_Hell

L322 box word are erm …. Yup think I have too much bhp / torque now done research 🤦‍♂️ engine out time soon

Where the “age” arrow 😂😂😂

We tinkered with MS3 and decided quickly to drop it and aviod like the plague. if you open the ECU it has PCB on PCB on PCB and awful posts to keep apart connectors and as a grown up said "Its bloody awful design" MS2 should be more than enough although with the CAN system lots of additional work. Check the USA forums on MS there maybe someone who has been there sorted it done it and can help - THATS the key difference with MS over any other systems is that its a community and peeps can help ! Nige

Hello all, 1st, I have a genuine 1985 LR V8 90 with a Factory fitted LT85 Gearbox and the 3.5 V8 gone and a 5.2 full race Jon Eales Triple Plenum V8 in its place Prob is the clutch has exploded and will need complete replacement .. My thoughts have turned to an auto....and this is an area I have f all knowledge in so asking here for input and thoughts to various Questions Q1 the 5.2 chucks out 342 BHP at 7250 RPM and near 400 Ft Lbs max torque will a ZF22 cope with it?....equally will a ZF22 with ZF 24 stronger internals special build cope either ? Q2 Is the length of the auto unit ZF22/24 combo similar / longer / shorter than the standard LT85 ? Q3 Other than "Shifter positioning fun" will the auto fit under the Panel work / tunnel etc ? Q4 Is the ZF whichever wider of dimensionally that different to mean I would have to remake parts of the exhaust to fit, as its a custom made big bore system, guess this links to Q2 ?? Q5 Are all ZF22/24 combo using the same shifter kit position etc or are RR and say disco units different ? ..............and finally what else might I need to think over ? or Do I just put a new unit n there ....just I quite fancy an auto ...... No, I don't want a TF 727 as they sap power and are only 3 speed Nige

3.5s and all 3.9s have slopey plenum in silver and 4.2s and same tos 3.5 rarely has Hotwire stepper on rear 4.0 and 4.6 have square black plenums no rear stepper different tps tgors different plenum AND base too

I could retire now if I was careful, I did a job I absolutely loathed and although it paid well ( and I saved like it was the last pay cheque - it was hire n fire type of company) ... it did me no favours health wise with daft long hours and buckets of stress, constant fear of redundancy (applied for my own job 9 times in 14 years !) and generally unpleasant place to be for so many hours... Now I earn a fraction of what I did, but I love what I do, I have thought about retiring but whilst I get a buzz out of nearly every day and getting to inventing things I'll carry on - its a sort of retirement When its no longer fun = I'll properly stop

Discos don't help at all for this sort of thing as they are very arse end heavy ... but You would really need HD 4.75 CWPs, pegged casings without Question and stronger centers of some sorts, HD shafts, preferably 300M all around HD CVs HD Flanges all around and a 1.4 poss even i.6 TBOX and a bible to pray on each outing ...and it can still all go "Ferking BIG POP" on 37s at the 1st sign of "Hold my beer and watch this" My advice ...Don't ........35s max, and still most of the above applies

maybe this is worth a watch too :

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaand ...............finally If you want to understand what the "tablock" upgrade is : https://megasquirt-v8.co.uk/diff_locker_upgrade.php Wow now thats a spec + 1/2 9mm.mp4

meanwhile .............. 8mm.mp4

Casing now fully machined 7mm.mp4

6mm.mp4

5m.mp4

4mm.mp4

Well..................... The top of the rnage rear diff is finished ! With Tigging machining, drilling taping painting CNCing and labout these are a 3 day build albeit in "Chuncks" of time, but wow what a diff. Few videos ! Ultimate pegged casing - tigged now machining required 3m.mp4

As said by stellaghost propsgafts abd UJs either dry or worn can make horrible noises ….they can also destroy diffs fast so whilst you might have a differential problem it’s a good idea to know why it’s gone so it doesn’t do the same to your new diff ….. so can you pull the drive flange the prop is bolted to in and out at All ?? can you when you grab the diff flange / end of prop move the flange up or down at all ? lastly remove prop.. shove in diff lock and drive …has the noise gone ? then check prop ujs each end and slider for stiffness and or west report back 👍

Fronts done ! a really high spec build but nothing quite like what the rear will end up looking need to machine and finish casing then will build the rear…few pictures of the finished front to keep Mr Panda quiet for a few more days 😂

All 100% cracking advice imvho

Before its completely cooled we take it out and Pour in a High grade expensive resin which "Purges" all the air out of the cavities and also seals any pin holes that may be there in the cast steel casing. When this has hardened off when it is milled flat drilled and tapped M16x2 for the special pegging bolts those 2 x holes are completely sealed from the reat of the casing - important as the Lower peg bolt is actually LOWER than the differential oil Final Pics of the casing The TIG work is not quite as neat as normal - I broke my arm just before Christmas and it still not that great - Paint will cover it up 🤦‍♂️😂 As to what makes this casing "Ultimate" - Here is a little video that explains

Then we tack the 1st 2 x 10mm plates into place and check alighmnet, then TIG Them up with some very very expensive TIG rods which help aviod cracking on dissimilar welding between Hot rolled Plate and Cast steel casing ! Then we add a further top plate which when jigged into place is also welded fully into place. This Long Nose Ultimate pegged casing is going to be number 888 ! so its written on it ready for machining drilling and tapping but 1st we take it out of the oven (oven is set at 220 Degrees - and welded casing is popped in and then door shut overn switched off to allow the 2 metals to be controlled as they cool, as they if left on the bench would cool at significantly differeing rates and then crack 😬 turning it into Scrap

Hello All As said we have been asked to build a pair of high end differentials, one of which - the rear is basically the strongest possible LR Locker combo I think is avaiable anywhere, so I have decided to post up the Build(s) which I normally don't, as being an Admin I try not to post much about me as a business to avoid any conflict of interest However, as this is a specific build Thread, and I have been asked to show it as part of the Discos build, here we go. Hopefully the members will take the above and accept this as a bit of a one off The 2 Differentials we have discussed at length, and then agreed the build spec on are as follows : Front Differential New Xcess 4x4 Long Nose Pegged Casing New Ashlocker 24 Spline Locker Our "Tablock" Upgrade to the Ashlocker New Front Cut / Reverse Cut 3.75 HD Crown wheel & Pinion Set Full Ultra Build Spec Front Rotation Oil Vane upgrade Superflange Upgrade Whilst this is buy any Standards "One hell of a Diff" the Rear is our "Ultimate" Build which is basically everything we can currently do to a LR Diff in terms of strength & Reliablity .... Rear Differential New Xcess 4x4 Long Nose "Ultimate" Pegged Casing New Ashlocker 24 Spline Locker Our "Tablock" Upgrade to the Ashlocker New Rear Cut 3.75 HD Crown wheel & Pinion Set Full Ultra Build Spec Rear Rotation Oil Vane upgrade Superflange Upgrade So, today we started on the Rear Differential Casing which needs to be Pegged and then machined to be the "Ultimate" Pegged Casing A few pictures from todays work : For our Pegged Casings we use the Earlier "winged Capped" casings as they are the strongest, these have a steel "L" Shaped locking plate vs the later weaker casings which have a hollow 3mm cotter pin - which shears off and then the diff fails So, the casings are aquablast cleaned leaving them ready to weld, the casing will start to surface rust over night but we just reclean the area needed and then crack on with 3 x CNC Cut 10mm Thick plates- which are a higher grade of steel than just Cold / Hot Rolled Mild, and this is as the steel is stronger and also welds better when TIGged to Cast steel casing. The plates are Laser Cut but need to be linished and ground to fit casing. Unfortunately there are a number of casings that LR have had made and thus we have to hand finish for each to get a decent fit, and as with all things welding - clean clean clean

Hi all when I did my tig training / exams my lovely instructor said there are 4 things to always remember come what may for a better weld clean clean clean - better the metal is cleaned Better the weld shsrp tungsten if it isn’t stop it’s not a f blow lamp 😂 comfy is good uncomfy will show ( it does lol! and get the gloves you find the absolute best irrespective of costs wrong / poor / uncomfy gloves are like welding with a sock on your hand and he is spit on I have tried a vast range of gloves and costs weldporn were my fav but cost fortunes from USA and during lockdown often out of stock then I got desperate and bough a whole range of gloves from safety gloves.co.Uk including some very very VERY cheap ones and they are f superb cost is very low they fit superbly tight very soft leather and just a joy to use . I have used these for some months and then a while ago on reorder not available went then using other gloves I had and only then did I realise just how good these are tetgra 126a fab …try some …for any high amp mig may not be enough protection but at 220 amp TIG perfect absolutely no connection with company other than happy customer try a pair …and report back …and cheap as chips and last well 👍

Oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo Sir ☺️ Thankyou all for the recomendations of our diff services, we will be building some rather special units for Mr Panda .............. He is amongst other things having the rear build into one of our new "Ultimate" pegged casings, I thought the thread might like to see what this is why its so special and hoe jolly excited I am with this new product (yes I am odd and sad ) Also persuaded him to throw the rear donut assembly away go for the round puma flange unit and a 200 TDi prop lol enjoy : Might even add some of the build pics soon when done Nige

Nice video : Megasquirt for V8 engines - What is Megasquirt (megasquirt-v8.co.uk) Right at the bottom of the page click on linky - shows the one careful owner testing it 🙈

You need one of these : not sure if I have stock as just putting website back on line and need to double check ! If I have the wbshop will show stock, if not more are on order lol Out of Stock Megasquirt V8 - Rev Counter / Tacho Conversion board - Solder Type On Megasquirt, when you convert from the Lucas system and a traditional 'Coil' driven Rev / Tacho Counter, MS won't have the Rev Counter work without internal modifications .... So, this little beauty - about 40mm x 30mm will allow you to run your rev counter without any modifications to the ECU !. Simply run 1 x wire from each of the A B C D coil feeds to the board - this is a 'Solder' type unit - ( see below for a 'Screw' type option ), then connect your rev counter to the Hole saying 'Tacho Out' All 5 of the connections are engraved on the board, once done either "pot" it up, or seal it up and job is done !. Very limited launch stock, if these prove popular we will get them made in volume and have more stock. (NOT Supplied in Kits) Out of Stock Megasquirt V8 - Rev Counter / Tacho Conversion board - Screw Type On Megasquirt, when you convert from the Lucas system and a traditional 'Coil' driven Rev / Tacho Counter, MS won't have the Rev Counter work without internal modifications .... So, this little beauty - about 40mm x 30mm will allow you to run your rev counter without any modifications to the ECU !. Simply run 1 x wire from each of the A B C D coil feeds to the board - this is a 'Screw' type unit - ( see above for a 'Solder' type option ), then connect your rev counter to the Tower screw Hole saying 'Tacho Out' All 5 of the connections are engraved on the board, once done either "pot" it up, or seal it up and job is done !. Very limited launch stock, if these prove popular we will get them made in volume and have more stock. (NOT Supplied in Kits)