L835

Sorry! found the hyd instructions in the tech archive - should have looked there first! But, do I need to change the front springs? No memtion in the 525 manual but the H14 manual says to uprate them? Thanks Richard

195mm deep on my '89 110

Thanks everyone for the info - Martin you have a PM! Clearly the front panel needs shortening to clear the back of the winch, does anyone have a photo or measurements of the cut panel? Thanks again! Richard

Please can anyone help with some info on my pto winch? The id plate has seen better days, so other than the serial no, which starts 525/___ I don't have any info on the model or its rating, rope diameter etc. many thanks Richard

I'm thinking about fitting an oil pressure guage to my 200tdi, and understand that a capilliary type is the one to go for? - probably a Smiths one. As I would like to retain the low pressure sender on the filter head, could someone please tell me the thread so I can get a 'T' piece please? Thanks in advance Richard

Thanks for the info, no I just have the bare doors (managed to find the locks on fleabay) Is 'domestic' laminated glass the same as automotive I wonder? If so can get some from my glazier friend. I have to replace the rear body capping as they hav erotted at the ends, and was considering "modifying' the reasonable bits to fit the doors? Richard

Thanks Western! Have ordered the parts, as will have to split the engine/box even if it's just the fork (again) so might as well fit a clutch while I'm in there!

Hello again, with another problem! a few days ago my 110 started juddering when moving off with the trailer, and now the clutch pedal is very stiff. I have great difficulty in engaging gears, 1st is out the rest take an effort! However, just resting my foot on the clutch pedal causes the clutch to slip. any ideas? There's no loss of fluid from the reservoir, and nothing dripping from the bell housing. If a new clutch is needed, any proplems fitting a 130 HD to a 110? I would like to have a billet release bearing carrier this time, but can't remember who makes them? Thanks in advance. Richard

Hi, just wandered over here from the Defender forum as I'm fiting S3 middle row doors to my 110! I have the bare doors, but need to find the glass and galvanised strips for the outside. Can anyone point me in the direction of part numbers or a supplier? Thanks Richard

Hi, I 'm thinking about changing the rotten doors on my 110 for series ones. Any likely problems? Thanks Richard

Not that this helps! but I've been meaning to fit an electric fan to my 110 200 tdi, having removed the viscous fan and put the xeng switch in the lower hose, but haven't done it yet. Anyway having just towed 1.5t, 120 miles home yesterday, which was quite warm, the temp guage didn't pass the mid point, so do we realy need a fan anyway?

Shameless plug but I'm selling a pump, pipes and box from a200tdi on flea bay.... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110658831976&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_500wt_1156 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110658944514&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_500wt_1156

I have a 'Kats' preheater from the good ole USA on my 110 220 tdi. It runs off the mains via a timer - plug it in at night, nice and warm before work! As most preheaters are 1500 -2000W running one off your battery a) will take ages to heat and b) won't leave you with a lot power to start the engine with. The preheater heats the fuel filter then the heater matrix, heater hoses are insulated. Hope this helps!

The muff does make the 200tdi heat up more quickly, but as you say a leaking thermostat may well be the cause and thinking about it, it of course makes sence. The block heater is working well, start up with the needle in the midle of the guage The unkinked intercolloer hose has inproved the mpg too

Behind, as I plan to put a 'divider' between the front of the rad and intercooler so I can fit a muff over the rad in winter without blocking the inercooler.

My 200 tdi 110 has struggled with even minor hills, putting out black smoke and crawling up at low speeds. I changed the air and fuel filters (twice) checked the lift pump, but none of these helped. It was only when I removed the fan shroud to fix an electric fan that I noticed the bottom intercooler hose was kinked. It wasn't helped by the dump valve from the air filter pushing on it too. The rubber hose hadn't been pushed 'home' onto the metal pipe and intercooler, making it kink and reducing the cross section considerably. Five minutes with a screw driver to fit it properly and a much healthier 200 tdi. Whilst it doesn't exactly romp up hills at least it puts out (slightly) less smoke and I can now contenplate taking the trailer out! Hope this helps someone else with a similar problem! Richard

Thanks for the tip fitting it this morning! If anyone's interested its a "Kats" 240v 'tank heater' from www.autocoolingsolutions.com in the USA (Canadian spec) I thought if anyone knows about cold starting its them! The unit seems well made and more substantial than some on ebay. Price wise it was £30 + £30 shipping and £10 import vat, so £70 plus hoses etc. I;m also insulating the heater hoses using nitrile rubber from www.green_tech_uk

Many thanks! Am about to fit a preheater and had them the wrong way round ......

Could anyone tell me which pipe is the inlet from the block to the heater please? Thanks Richard

It was the last owner who invented the 'fix' The adjuster was working on the bolt head. You can imagine the difference in thickness between a brake shoe peg and a m8 bolt head. It meant that even with the adjuster backed right off it shoe was only just clear of the drum. In practice this meant that there wasn't any adjustment, as turning the adjuster even slightly locked the drum.

Thanks for the advice! Strip down revealed both wheel cylinders leaking, and incorrectly fitted shoes by previous owner - adjusters didn't reach the pegs on near side, offside shoes didn't have any pegs so he had drilled them and fitted m8 bolts.....

Moved the spare to the bonnet as the weight of it on the rear door meant that the door kept shutting on me when I was reaching something out of the load area! No problems with forward view - you quickly get used to it and drive accordingly. I find that lifting the spare onto the bonnet is easier than the rear door as you can lift it in steps, resting it on the bumper on the way up!

Hi, some advice please! I've just tried to adjust the rear brakes on my 1989 110. Turning the adjuster on the brake back plates didn't result in any resistance to either wheel turning, and despite the use of a large hammer and swearing in several languages the drums refuse to leave the hubs. Jacking up the back end then revealed zero brake on both wheels. The last Mot was passed, but then the garage used a tapley meter. I'm wondering if it's a master cyl problem, or could it be that the ape I baught the 110 from has done something to the brakes to render them useless? Any ideas please?

Thanks! certainly looks like a series tank....

Sorry if this has been covered before, but I need to fit a second, under seat fuel tank in my 110 CSW. Will a series tank fit? I have a scrap 90 with a good tank, which would fit,but being a CSW the filler would exit through the 2nd row door! Thanks in advance!