L835

88 degrees. Tested the thermostat with a calibrated thermometer, and at the end of the scale the radiator is cold. Push the engine and the 'stat opens, radiator gets hot but needle stays roughly where it was. I'm putting it down to a mis-matched disco sender and defender gauge.

No I left the expansion tank where it was, but kept bleeding the thermostat housing. At working temperature the gauge sits at the left hand end of the white part of the scale, and no coolant loss. Given the narrow safety margin in 300tdi coolant levels, I am adding a low coolant alarm http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170927068334?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_1259wt_1255

Fitted Masai windows to my 110 http://www.masai-land-rover.com/#!/~/product/category=829052&id=9673429 Very easy to do as they came with a template to mark the holes with. Was a little nervous about gluing them to the side, but they are still there twelve months on! No leaks or rattles and they are well worth fitting for the improved visibility at junctions.

Thanks Mark, tested thermostat, but think the gauge and sender are miss-matched (separate thread on that!) as normal is the right hand end of the white scale. Thermostat opens in the black. Managed to bleed system by cracking the x-cap on the thermostat housing after each run, heater blows hot and no coolant loss (so far!) Did re-use the head bolts, torqueing + angle. Just need to change the injector that seems to have given up then we're there!

Thought they weren't compatible, many thanks for the advice, new gauge and sender in post!

Still wrestling with the Disco 300tdi retro fit overheating! Then it occurred to me. I tested the thermostat with a thermometer in hot water - opens at 88c, but the gauge reads at the right hand end of the white on the scale (105c?) So, will a 300tdi temp sender give an 'accurate' reading on a 1990 Defender gauge (possibly Nat Aspirated as ex Army)? Thanks Richard

New (genuine) water pump fitted. Old one seemed ok, not slipping on shaft etc. Still overheating and on checking, found that the thermostat - header tank hose was blocked (so air had no way to escape from head.(many thanks Cookie!) Bled as per mmgemini's method, but found heater was running cold. So, disconnected front hose from heater with engine running - nothing. Disconnected rear hose and water everywhere! (engine stopped immediately!) Bypassed heater matrix and went for a spin, stopping on a 1 in 4. Low 1st to get up the hill, but needle stayed at top end of white on gauge! Have flushed heater matrix, and will try again once bled!

Thanks, looks like it's coming off! Logically it must be the pump, if I've cold water in the radiator and the head is red hot!

My 300tdi is overheating. After it briefly put out a load of white smoke and the needle started heading for the red. I have - Checked thermostat in hot water with thermometer - opened correctly Flushed radiator - water ran clear Bled cooling system - heater blows hot! Changed head gasket. No sign of cracks between valves or around glow plugs/injectors. Head checked with straight edge for warping. One mile from home and it is almost in the red again! Top 1/4 of radiator is hot, lower part icy cold. So other than internal cracks in the head....all I have left to check is the water pump. Any suggestions on the best way to do this please? Thanks Richard

Driving about five miles from cold yesterday, the engine warmed up very quickly, almost into red on the gauge, then pushed out clouds of dense white smoke. Found the header tank was empty, refilled it and drove another mile before the temp headed for the red again. I stopped for ten minutes or so, let it cool and all seemed well. Got home and found the coolant was very low again Having considered everything, I reasoned this must be the head gasket on its way out? So today have removed the head. Removing the cap on the expansion tank to find it was full! The gasket seemed ok! But there was a lot of oil on it between no1 cyl and the front of the engine, and oil on the underside of the bonnet at the back of the engine. Several of the manifold bolts were finger tight but that's probably another story! There wasn't any sign of coolant in the oil, no loss of power, and no signs of leaking coolant. The thermostat had stuck closed about two weeks ago, but noticed before the engine overheated and was changed. The engine runs hotter with the new thermostat - at the right hand end of the scale, but works as the radiator (new two years ago) is hot. Is it possible for the gasket to fail without showing any obvious signs? Had a look at the head, no signs of cracks between valves or around the injectors or glow plugs. Thanks Richard

Flat surface so you can 'adjust' the position of the engine crane. Have changed two boxes now, each took a weekend. The box can be persuaded to pass under the chassis rail without lifting the front end, although I can see how that would make life easier.

Obsolete. Mil hatches have the over centre catch not the round screw type.

Except you cannot get the seals anymore

Loose drop arm nut?

I've always thought the black puff to be normal. Its the white cloud I'm worried about so will get the injectors checked. Thanks for the advice Richard

My 300tdi (ex disco and of unknown mileage)has started misbehaving. Until yesterday, there was a brief puff of black smoke as the engine fired, then clear exhaust. Now, for some reason, when parked on level ground, with a warm engine, it billows white smoke for 10 -20 seconds, then clears. When parked on a slope, or with a cold engine, it just has the usual short black puff. Any ideas please? Richard

Buy an X-fan from Si at http://www.x-eng.co.uk/StoreTop.asp?MID=4&SL=4 , and get rid of the capillary tube thing Kenlow expect you to insert in the top hose - they always leak....

Hi, It happens once the box has warmed up. It isn't a release bearing noise, in any case I fitted a raceway release bearing when I changed the clutch.

No, nothing rubbing on the [prop, but have changed the rear UJ, which has largely cured the problem! Can now hear the output bearing 'whooshing' and still have a 'tinkling' like a loose washer sound coming from the t'box.

That would be really kind Aragorn, if you could PM me your details I will send postage! Thanks Richard

Thanks Ralph, do I need a Discovery cross-member with those mounts? Richard

Hi, the old mounts fell apart when took the old box out....

Hi, I had to change the gearbox on my 1991 110, converted to 300tdi & R380 by the previous owner. All went well, untill I tried to fit the gearbox mounts. Offside wasn't a problem, but nearside doesn't line, up, it could do with being further forward, and the transferbox is too far from the chassis. I have tried loosening all the nuts on both brackets (original N/A LT77) jacking the boxes up and letting them settle back, but no difference. The engine mounts are welded to the chassis, engine/bellhousing, bellhousing/gearbox and gearbox/transferbox joints are all correctly alligned. Any ideas please? Thanks Richard

Thanks will try that!

Nope, trial run with x-brake removed, noises still as bad! Next step must be to drop the props and run in gear tomake sure its the tbox....