L835

Will take the x-brake off and try, but I would be very surprised if it was that due to the variety of noises!

Hi, last year the R380 in my 110 died, and was repaced with a Ashworth one. While I was 'in there' I fitted a 130 clutch and X-brake. Sadly I retained the Disco transfer box the 110 came with...... Lately the noise coming from under the floor has reached embarrasing levels! It comprises a metallic 'tinkle' rattle, 'rubbing' squeek and a 'rotary' sound as though something is rubbing on the prop shaft. I have gone through the gears with the T'box in neutral - nothing, and the noises only happens when the 110 is under power, quiet when coasting. I have checked underneath, nothing loose or rubbing, propshaft ujs greased and ok (slight play in one rear but nothing major) which does not explain the bad vibes at 35- 50mph. Although the transfer box only has a slight oil 'weep', old habbits have seen the fluids checked regularly - no major oil losses. I have removed the centre seat and panel, and the noise is definitely from the gear/transfer box area. There is also a slight click/clunk from the T'box when the handbrake is released. So I'm hoping it is the transfer, rather than the gear box (TBH towing and going uphill is very poor with the Disco ratios anyway) so 'does the panel think' its time to swap for a Defender transfer box,or should I be looking elsewhere??? Thanks in advance! Richard

Yes, it's probably worth more as an 'estate' !

I tried to correct the body type on my V5 (110 CSW) DVLA replied stating that all pre 1998 Defenders can only be described as 'light 4x4 utility' including 'estates' Also my engine No is 'not known'! I gave up!

My intermittent wipe sometimes does 4 wipes then nothing for ages, sometimes its a long wait, sometimes its short, so I'm guessing its the relay?

Slightly off topic, but having owned two 110's which had been retrofitted with Tdi's, don't forget to change the header tank for a Tdi one! The NA/Td and possibly petrol tank is too small and on mine couldnt cope with the expansion of the coolant, pushing the excess out and needing constant topping up until I changed the tank!

Same symptoms with mine, the master cyl had decided to give up during the clutch change! Might be worth checking?

I was wondering about this. My previously n/a 110 had a 300tdi and r380 fitted by its last "engineer" owner. He made new engine mounts but used the existing LT77 mounts. I had to fit a new box recently and the old rubber mounts fell apart. Can't get the new ones to line up properly, this would be why then?!

If your not losing fluid, sounds like the master cyl.

Many thanks! The friction plate doesn't have much wear, but I suppose the previous owner could have reused the cover.

I'm changing the dead R380 on my 110 for a shiny one from Ashcrofts! While I'm 'in there' I decided to replace the cluch, and found the attached....The cluch was an AP one and worked fine. Clearly the release bearing has been in near permenant contant with the fingers, which are almost worn through. I'm wondering if the push rod is too long? The rod I have is 100mm long, is that right? Thanks in advance! Richard

Thanks for the advice, looks like it's time for a recond box! Has anyone tried L.E.G.S or should I give Ashcroft's a ring? Richard

The bell housings about 10 inches long so I guess it isn't the short shaft one! How easy is it to convert a disco 380?

I have a 1992 110 which has been retrofitted with a 300 tdi and r380. The gearbox is on its last legs, very noisy and about to go bang! On the plus side I have a couple of good lt 77's. Question is, will they fit? Thanks in advance!

The panel is 750 x 395 mm with a 22 frame if that helps identify it!

I have an ex military 110 with a leaking lift out sun roof (officially an escape hatch!) I'm told the seals are no longer available, so is it possible to change the whole thing for a later 'wind up' type sunroof? Are the holes the same or will it involve major surgery? Thanks in advance!

Thought so, many thanks! Richard

Surely extended seat rails are just a length of box section steel with some holes drilled in them? Richard

Local galv place quoted £95+vat. Need to get it plated and paint removed first. When I collected my trailer from Ifor williams, they told me that the galv was stronger than the steel in the chasis! I know what will happen! while it's off I might as well rewire, paint chasis.......!

I do know that it's when steel and water meet! But, why do defender bulkheads rust in the same places, ie around the screen hinge? Is it water entering from the bulkhead/screen joint, through the hinge holes, thrown up from the wheels (unlikely) or all three? The reason I ask is that my drivers door top hinge and the bulkhead are no longer in a relationship! The previous owners repair - filler foam! has finally given out. Fortunately I have a scrap 90 with a pretty good bulkhead, only a few minor holes in the usual places, and on the top where the screen sits. It's being repaired, and I am considering having it galvanised too. As its such a long job to swap the bulkheads over I'd rather only do it once, any thoughts on how to stop it rusting from within? Many thanks Richard

The only 'hole' I can see is the lashing eye/JATE ring one, does the light use that or was it mounted further forward? Thanks Richard

Hi, can anyone tell me where the convoy light is fitted to a 110? Thanks Richard

Not light then! Good luck with the clutch!

Railway Carriage shell?

No! 18 months without any fan on my 200tdi 110. Have towed mini diggers all day up hill, etc,Temp only comes up to slightly past the middle of the guage. Bin the fan!